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Breaking In - How To?

Started by norty , Nov 05 2008 05:37 pm

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#1 norty

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 05:37 pm


Should be getting my new bike week after next clapping.gif
Started thinking about the best way to break her in - Has anybody done the methord on the Motoman websitemotoman?

If so does it work and how exactly did they go about it? - e.g. did they use normal oil as recommended.


#2 robelst

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:00 pm

Most manufacturers red-line the engine for a while on a dyno as part of quality control, which nicely takes care of the initial bedding-in process of the piston rings. You may want to carry on doing that yourself but not sure if "MotoMan" will be around if you run into warranty issues. I have run in plenty of engines, not really much of an issue with modern engines. Just avoid very low and very high revs for longer periods of time and try to vary revs a bit more than usual and you'll be fine. If you really go for hard-core running in, remember new engines run really hot due to more internal friction so you may want the added heat protection of synthetic oil. And no, synthetic oil does NOT prevent engines from running in, actually, most high-performance cars and probably some bikes as well are topped up with fully-synthetic from the factory when new.
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#3 dandywarhol

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:15 pm

Agree with robel - the piston/bore clearances on a 900 are so tight that combined with much more accurate tolerances than the "good ol' days" they require little running in.

Run in too gently and you're likely to run into oil burning issues through bore "glazing".

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#4 norty

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:19 pm

Is it worth changing the oil and filter before the 600 mile service?

#5 dandywarhol

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:21 pm

Shouldn't think so - you'll do that mileage in a weekend............ tongue.gif

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#6 norty

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:22 pm

QUOTE(dandywarhol @ Wed 5th Nov 2008, 06:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Shouldn't think so - you'll do that mileage in a weekend............ tongue.gif

First day tongue.gif

#7 duibhce Kaelann

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:23 pm

rule no 1: properly warm up the engine when starting a ride (as you should always do)
rule no 2: stay clear of the red zone
rule no 3: vary the revs

otherwise you can trash it just as much as any other bike that is already run in...
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#8 dapleb

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 08:06 pm

Running in seems a lot like oil. Lots of opinions, misinformation, hearsay and little proper evidence.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#9 DKM AUTOS

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:44 pm

Just cane it! laugh.gif tongue.gif
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#10 tdm850rider

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 11:50 pm

QUOTE(duibhce Kaelann @ Wed 5th Nov 2008, 02:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
rule no 1: properly warm up the engine when starting a ride (as you should always do)
rule no 2: stay clear of the red zone
rule no 3: vary the revs

otherwise you can trash it just as much as any other bike that is already run in...


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#11 wicklamulla

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:17 am

simply follow the specifics in the Yamaha TDM 900 owners handbook which you will be given with the bike.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#12 Toraneko

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 05:53 am

QUOTE(norty @ Thu 6th Nov 2008, 04:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Should be getting my new bike week after next clapping.gif
Started thinking about the best way to break her in - Has anybody done the methord on the Motoman websitemotoman?

If so does it work and how exactly did they go about it? - e.g. did they use normal oil as recommended.


Yep, I followed MotoMans advise on a Toyota Kluger, Nissan Dualis ( Qashqai ) & the current TDM. All vehicles ran / run absolutely sweet! I did it as per his instructions
including oil changes. I even had a comment from the Nissan dealer that the engine was noticabley smoother & more responsive that others they had serviced recently. good.gif
He gave me a puzzled look when I said I didn't follow the recommended run-in. ohmy.gif

Follow duibhce Kaelann & others advise, which is not far removed from motoman. I would change the oil & filter at 100k though, as that's when all the nasty bits will be deposited in your oil.

As for evidence that it works? I'd say a picture's worth 1000 words & the photos on Motoman's site seem to bear out what he say's. yu.gif
My own personal experience is that it works. None of the vehicles used / use any oil ( to date ) & the TDM went from 43mpg to 55mpg in the course of 3 tanks of fuel.
I will put her on a Dyno sometime to get real figures, but power feels good & engine runs smooth as silk. drinks.gif





cheers, Shane from Tassie

Airbox Mod ( JBX ), Krauser K-wing mount & Top Box, TDM Shield a.k.a TigerScreen Mk 2, HyperPro progressive rate fork springs, BeoWulf - Warrior exhausts,
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#13 Guest_GuyGraham_*

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:42 pm

QUOTE(norty @ Wed 5th Nov 2008, 05:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Should be getting my new bike week after next clapping.gif Started thinking about the best way to break her in - Has anybody done the methord on the Motoman websitemotoman?If so does it work and how exactly did they go about it? - e.g. did they use normal oil as recommended.


Yep - done it with my SV1000, which is the only new bike I've hadIt has now done over 8K miles
It burns no oil, and going by what other say on the SV forum, it is more lively than most as it wheelies off thepower in first where as other say there's doesn't

I'll be doing it again if I have anohter new bike



QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Thu 6th Nov 2008, 12:02 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
simply follow the specifics in the Yamaha TDM 900 owners handbook which you will be given with the bike if you want it to be on the slow side


I've corrected that for you Wicky



Running in a modern engine is now only about the ring seal
Its all over by 35miles - if you've been to gentle then its too late

Edited by GuyGraham, 06 November 2008 - 12:44 pm.

#14 wicklamulla

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 04:50 pm

QUOTE(GuyGraham @ Thu 6th Nov 2008, 12:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yep - done it with my SV1000, which is the only new bike I've hadIt has now done over 8K miles
It burns no oil, and going by what other say on the SV forum, it is more lively than most as it wheelies off thepower in first where as other say there's doesn't

I'll be doing it again if I have anohter new bike
I've corrected that for you Wicky
Running in a modern engine is now only about the ring seal
Its all over by 35miles - if you've been to gentle then its too late


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spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif

#15 norty

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 05:41 pm

QUOTE(TigersBlade @ Thu 6th Nov 2008, 05:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yep, I followed MotoMans advise on a Toyota Kluger, Nissan Dualis ( Qashqai ) & the current TDM. All vehicles ran / run absolutely sweet! I did it as per his instructions
including oil changes. I even had a comment from the Nissan dealer that the engine was noticabley smoother & more responsive that others they had serviced recently. good.gif
He gave me a puzzled look when I said I didn't follow the recommended run-in. ohmy.gif

Follow duibhce Kaelann & others advise, which is not far removed from motoman. I would change the oil & filter at 100k though, as that's when all the nasty bits will be deposited in your oil.

As for evidence that it works? I'd say a picture's worth 1000 words & the photos on Motoman's site seem to bear out what he say's. yu.gif
My own personal experience is that it works. None of the vehicles used / use any oil ( to date ) & the TDM went from 43mpg to 55mpg in the course of 3 tanks of fuel.
I will put her on a Dyno sometime to get real figures, but power feels good & engine runs smooth as silk. drinks.gif


When you changed the oil did use you plain 10-40w car oil?

Assuming you ran in the TDM on the road how hard did you ride her?

#16 dapleb

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 05:50 pm

Like i said lots of opinions with no real evidence.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#17 Toraneko

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 12:09 am

QUOTE(norty @ Fri 7th Nov 2008, 04:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
When you changed the oil did use you plain 10-40w car oil?

Assuming you ran in the TDM on the road how hard did you ride her?



I changed out the dealer oil as soon as I got her home. They used a semi-synthetic M/C oil. I put plain old 15W40 car engine oil in.
change that & the filter at 100k, put some more 15w40 ( or similar ) change that & filter again at about 1500k.
I constantly varied the revs up to the Redline NOT into it! Hard acceleration but done in a safe place.
After that put a good FULLY Synthetic oil ( 10w40 / 50 ) in Bike or car, your choice. I have used fully synthetic car oil in several bikes for years & had no problems. smile.gif

The levels of nasties like phosphorus have had to be removed since the introduction of catalytic converters in car exhausts so
I reckon the oil companies are just trying to scare Bikers into paying 4 times as much for Bike oil that is little different from car oil these days.

EXCEPT for the latest low viscosity ENERGY CONSERVING car oils. DO NOT USE THOSE EVER in your bike!

As for Dapleb & no evidence. I still say look at Motoman's Photos. What would he have to gain from giving BAD advise apart from threat of death from
very upset bikers! Quite the contrary, from what I read they support his method.

If you read the plethora of info' about oils on the web you could go barmy! I based my decision to go with Motoman's method on the experience of blokes who have
been doing pretty much the same as him for 20years or more & with good results.

Get as much advise as you can, but in the end only you can make the decision.
cheers, Shane from Tassie

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#18 dapleb

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 02:50 am

Ha yeah looking at all the oil info on the web could make you go barmy, look at me blarble blapal Boop! Again written by people with nothing to gain other than wishing their theory is right. There is some Good stuff and alot of old wives tales and also some utter bollox. Some car and bike oil is identical apart from the can and price that is scientific facto. While others are not, also scientific facto. Some people can convince themselves their bikes 'feel' more responsive or powerful or smoother after some adjustment when in fact there is no difference. Aint saying either way is right or wrong just saying its a bit of a guessing game. As
You say peeps should maketheir own minds.

"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#19 Toraneko

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 10:09 am

QUOTE(dapleb @ Fri 7th Nov 2008, 01:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ha yeah looking at all the oil info on the web could make you go barmy, look at me blarble blapal Boop! Again written by people with nothing to gain other than wishing their theory is right. There is some Good stuff and alot of old wives tales and also some utter bollox. Some car and bike oil is identical apart from the can and price that is scientific facto. While others are not, also scientific facto. Some people can convince themselves their bikes 'feel' more responsive or powerful or smoother after some adjustment when in fact there is no difference. Aint saying either way is right or wrong just saying its a bit of a guessing game. As
You say peeps should maketheir own minds.


Yeah I pretty much agree on that, 'cause the older I get the more I realise the less I know for sure. laugh.gif

I will get the TDM Dyno'd though just to satisfy my own curiosity.

What I like about this place is we can all throw our two cents / pence worth in & generally something useful comes out of it. wink.gif

cheers, Shane from Tassie

Airbox Mod ( JBX ), Krauser K-wing mount & Top Box, TDM Shield a.k.a TigerScreen Mk 2, HyperPro progressive rate fork springs, BeoWulf - Warrior exhausts,
Stebel Compact Nautilus Air-Horn with Eastern Beaver relay kit, Eastern Beaver PC-8 switched fusebox, Powerlet BMW style power socket
plus controller & heated gloves for the missus. Oxford v7 Heated Grips, V-Strom 650 HandGuards, Fenda extenda.

#20 TonyDevil

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 11:27 am

QUOTE(TigersBlade @ Fri 7th Nov 2008, 09:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What I like about this place is we can all throw our two cents / pence worth in & generally something useful comes out of it.

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