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Tidying Up The Swing Arm & More

Started by Daveb , Apr 14 2009 04:49 pm

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#1 Daveb

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:49 pm

I am in the process of tidying up the TDM, I am off all week.
The Swing arm needs a bit of TLC, almost covered 58000 miles, some rust spots / areas appearing on the arm.



So I have rubberd down the rusty areas and treated them with Krust by hammerite. I have got smoothrite silver, I believe this is a very similar match to the original

now I have the rear wheel off I am thinking of stripping it down, Except the tyre and bearing but mask these off and spray thw wheel gloss black, then clear coat. but I am tempted to fade colours from red or dark blue to black, (centre to rim) but as I use the bike vitually every week day, it might get dirty. then have to do somthing similar for the front wheel.


well the Krust, take about 3 hours before you can add top coat. so 4 hours later I sprayed the swing arm.


sorry about the masking paper, had to use what was to hand tongue.gif

need to remove paddock stand and tart up the outside of the swing arm now. sprayed the inside first so its not so noticable if the colour wasn't a good match, but its pretty damn close.

Edited by Daveb, 17 April 2009 - 12:40 pm.




1999 TDM850 MKII Black, Silver (Sold)
2007 Triumph Tiger 955i

#2 dapleb

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 05:45 pm

Jobsa carrot
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#3 andyj

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 05:55 pm

Yeah. Better than my efforts: I bought another swing arm to tart-up off the bike before replacing the original 'crusty' one.

I bought it two years ago, though - and I still haven't gotten around to it.

Edited by andyj, 14 April 2009 - 05:55 pm.

Another boring night & I'm feeling pissed....

#4 JollyGiant

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 06:04 pm

Looking good good.gif

My Super Modded TDM has gone to a new home :(

 

I'm now a carbon whore!

#5 apw99

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 06:09 pm

I got mine powder coated but it was too expensive - a good paint job like yours is much better value. Well done, APW good.gif

Have you ever lent someone 20 quid and never seen it again? It was probably worth it.

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#6 TeDeum

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 06:53 pm

Looks good. Did you use the DeVilbiss?

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#7 Daveb

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 07:38 pm

QUOTE(TeDeum @ Tue 14th Apr 2009, 07:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks good. Did you use the DeVilbiss?
Unfortunalty Chris, I need to get a more powerful compressor, I did try it out on my 60psi comp but when you pull the trigger it dropped down to 20psi, but I can take it to work and plug it into the works spraybooth and use it lunch times good.gif Though as I was looking after my kids this week, It is the ideal opportunity to tart the TDM up a bit.some more picys



QUOTE(andyj @ Tue 14th Apr 2009, 06:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yeah. Better than my efforts: I bought another swing arm to tart-up off the bike before replacing the original 'crusty' one.I bought it two years ago, though - and I still haven't gotten around to it.



Andy, its only taken a few hours to complete, the prep work is the important bit and the hardest. goto remove all the grease, grim and dirt. coffee time washing, degeaseing washing, more coffee, sanding, rust killer, more coffee, smoothrite, then 3 hours to kill, what to do for 3 hours. I didn't know so I have a few cups of coffee and made a lesagne for tea. simple to do.

Edited by Daveb, 14 April 2009 - 07:39 pm.




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2007 Triumph Tiger 955i

#8 Daveb

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 12:44 pm

I think I have got the airbrush (spraying) bug again. the wheels were looking well...er...er..sha bby, so I used black paint then laqcure only done the rear wheel so far.



you can see my finger print in 1 photo where I checked if it was touch dry, have to touch that up. then its onto the front wheel



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#9 ChrisG

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 03:40 pm

That's looking good.

I whipped my swinger out when I changed the shock, figuring I should regrease the bearings while I had things apart. Once I'd cleaned mine up (started with a screwdriver, then gunk and I reckoned it's now a couple of pound lighter) it looked pretty similar to the way your did to begin with. I just squirted a bit of ACF50 on and put it back together 'cos I wanted to use the bike but I think I could be tempted to have a go at repainting seeing how well yurs turned out good.gif

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#10 Daveb

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 07:32 pm

The front wheel is next, it look like it belongs to a different bike.

Dark grey front wheel, black rear wheel






1999 TDM850 MKII Black, Silver (Sold)
2007 Triumph Tiger 955i

#11 goony

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 08:20 pm

as its rotted on the right hand side and the side with the chain and lube is seems ok then the easy answer is to wax or oil the right hand side or if there is enough interest i could make us a proper carbon hugger to stop this happening

goony

#12 Daveb

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 12:34 pm

back on track, I need to remove the front wheel. space is tight in my shed. I have front and read paddock stands, to remove front wheel wouls I need to put rear on paddock first then front end. or could I jack up the front end only by using the side stand as a pivot. if so where do I lift the front from, under RHS stanstion or from under engine. I do not want to remove the exhaust. When they remove the front for tyre replacement the use a scissors jack I think under 1 fork leg.




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#13 TDMick

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 05:45 pm

QUOTE(Daveb @ Fri 17th Apr 2009, 01:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
back on track, I need to remove the front wheel. space is tight in my shed. I have front and read paddock stands, to remove front wheel wouls I need to put rear on paddock first then front end. or could I jack up the front end only by using the side stand as a pivot. if so where do I lift the front from, under RHS stanstion or from under engine. I do not want to remove the exhaust. When they remove the front for tyre replacement the use a scissors jack I think under 1 fork leg.


As far as I've been able to find out, if you're going to use a front stand they recommend lifting the rear first.
IMO even using a trolley jack or scissor jack I'd want to put it up on a rear stand first to get greater stability.



What about suspending it from the shed roof? hide.gif

Edited by TDMick, 17 April 2009 - 05:48 pm.

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#14 Daveb

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:23 am

Well, I treated myself to a pack of sky hooks (industrial quality) I think they will be ok to suspend the bike from.

but seriously I was just going to trust the paddock stands. the shed isn't much wider or longer than the TDM. Its the front end that concerns me the most, had the rear wheel off for a few day while tdm on paddock. but front paddock stand I have never tried.



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#15 CaptainSlow

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 06:57 pm

I've just had to have both wheels off to get new tyres, and I used a jacking-up method suggested to me by our very own Jolly Giant - it goes as follows:

Rolled the front wheel up onto a bit of 2" x 4" timber to raise it up. I then used another bit of timber to support the sidestand for a moment whilst I went round the back and got the rear paddock stand in place.

Then I put a bit of threaded bar through the holes at the front of the engine (where the MK1 bashplate is mounted) so it sticks out both sides. This can rest on a pair of axle stands, giving the front end nice sturdy support. To let the front down gradually onto the stands I let the air out of the tyre. Remove the timber and hey presto, supported both ends with wheels off the ground.

It beats what I used to do by using the axle stands under the fork legs - very wibbly.

Hope this is of some use

Dan

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#16 Daveb

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 07:01 pm

good idea, but I have managed to do it using 2 paddock stands, a bottle jack, a trolley jack and some timber.





its very stable, its so stable I even managed to remove the front paddock stand and place it back under.



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#17 TDMick

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 08:46 pm

QUOTE(Daveb @ Sat 18th Apr 2009, 08:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
good idea, but I have managed to do it using 2 paddock stands, a bottle jack, a trolley jack and some timber.





its very stable, its so stable I even managed to remove the front paddock stand and place it back under.


Great I feel a lot more confident about swopping the front discs and dropping the fork yolks 15 mm now.
Thanks Dave
good.gif

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#18 Daveb

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:24 pm

Mick, just get someone else to steady the bike, while you lift the front wheel, the block are there just supporting the front paddock stand and are not lifting, (think that clear).

oh just remembered make sure the front paddock stand prongs are the correct way round, the LHS prong was in the RHS of paddock stand. as you lift the prongs move to the rear of fork. swapped them around no slippage under forks. brake claiper were taken off forks to allow wheel to pass.

Also I unscrewed the speedo cable first, just incase the drive from the front wheel fouled or snagged on stand.

hope this helps or is it common sense.



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#19 TDMick

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:29 am

Dave
I've had it up on both stands before, a couple of times for a practice , it just felt desperately unsafe(to me).
I found the speedo cable tweak was helpful last time, I like the idea of the bar through the engine bolt holes, supported by jack or stands etc.
I might try and that out for when I do the front end.






I had an axle stand collapse (with me under the car) once and have been a bit of a belt and braces man since then.
Mick

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Who dies with the most toys wins!
 
 
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#20 dapleb

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:34 am

QUOTE(TDMick @ Sun 19th Apr 2009, 10:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I had an axle stand collapse (with me under the car) once and have been a bit of a belt and braces man since then.
Mick


No kidding! blink.gif


How about investing in an ABBA stand?

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