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900 Air Box Mod....fantastic!


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#161 TDM2340

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 11:58 am

Hey all. Sorry to sound like a broken record, but have completed airbox option 1 today and the difference is truly fabulous. I only bought the bike last week (2008 demo) and was happy but now estatic. Accelerating and backing off are both far smoother. THANKS JBX !!
Only query I have now is the bike stalling for no apparent reason at low revs. Only happened twice so far but both on roundabouts - dangerous.
Again, for anyone thinking of the airbox mod - just Do It !






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#162 catsbum

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 05:53 pm

OK I give in on this.

Tony, I'm home alone this week, book an evening with me for you n Kris to come over to do this and some dinner.

#163 AzzA

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Posted 25 May 2009 - 06:07 pm

Bought new 2009 model. Not happy with low RPM throttle. Conducted mod at 422kms. Knew it was the right thing to have done by 424kms, confirmed even more after 170km ride into major metro area on a wet day.

It really made that much of a difference.

Almost no jerky/snatchy throttle. Bike will now run at 12km/hr, previously 15, which is still not great... but it is still running in. (If this persists, will consider smaller rear sprocket.)

Used method #2 on JBX.
Using a very long pair of long-nosed pliers, I removed the hose to the right throttle body. I then inserted a M5 x 5mm stainless-steel grub-screw into the hose, and screwed it about 25mm up the hose with an Allen key. I then re-attached the hose to the throttle body. (An M4 grub-screw may have worked, but it might have let some air past.)

Whole process took less than 10 minutes, set-up to clean-up. And it can be reversed to stock/standard in the same time, should you not want your dealer/mechanic to know.

Bloody brilliant!

Thank you to all those who went before and bothered to tell.

gallery_10460_302_12664.png


#164 DrGre

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 05:31 pm

Did it a week ago, wanted to give it a spin, before writing - it's brilliant!
Thanks JBX and whoever else had anything to do with it! smile.gif
I did option 1, which could be much easier, if I wouldn't try to lift the tank forward istupid.gif
it took me awhile to get it right smile.gif

Edited by DrGre, 21 June 2009 - 05:32 pm.


#165 catsbum

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 08:54 pm

I'm gonna try option 1 tomorrow.

#166 Hartside Man

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 09:15 pm

QUOTE(CatsBum @ Sun 21st Jun 2009, 08:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm gonna try option 1 tomorrow.



Note to Catsbum the tank pivots backward rotflmmfao.gif

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I have a Ghost S and i'm not afraid to use it !

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#167 catsbum

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 09:48 pm

I did read that when going through the thread!!

Will be careful!


#168 AzzA

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 12:54 pm

Just an update on my experience:

I also enriched both cylinders about 10 points through the "CO Mode", adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and tweaked the clutch lever (for ease of use), all this made for a much improved experience.




QUOTE(AzzA @ Tue 26th May 2009, 04:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Bought new 2009 model. Not happy with low RPM throttle. Conducted mod at 422kms. Knew it was the right thing to have done by 424kms, confirmed even more after 170km ride into major metro area on a wet day.

It really made that much of a difference.

Almost no jerky/snatchy throttle. Bike will now run at 12km/hr, previously 15, which is still not great... but it is still running in. (If this persists, will consider smaller rear sprocket.)

Used method #2 on JBX.
Using a very long pair of long-nosed pliers, I removed the hose to the right throttle body. I then inserted a M5 x 5mm stainless-steel grub-screw into the hose, and screwed it about 25mm up the hose with an Allen key. I then re-attached the hose to the throttle body. (An M4 grub-screw may have worked, but it might have let some air past.)

Whole process took less than 10 minutes, set-up to clean-up. And it can be reversed to stock/standard in the same time, should you not want your dealer/mechanic to know.

Bloody brilliant!

Thank you to all those who went before and bothered to tell.


gallery_10460_302_12664.png


#169 catsbum

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 04:44 pm

All done, Is it really that easy? unsure.gif

Will road test in the morning, will advise.


#170 murf

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 07:33 am

thinking of doing the air flap mod see it on jbx pages is it that simple pull off hose and plug.dose the flap open and stay open,

#171 JollyGiant

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:03 am

Don't think about do it!!

Apparently it's make a hell of a difference..

My Super Modded TDM has gone to a new home :(

 

I'm now a carbon whore!


#172 catsbum

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 06:08 am

Mines better, but still a bit jerky.
Better is good though good.gif

#173 Peter Watts

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 08:08 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Mon 22nd Jun 2009, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just an update on my experience:

I also enriched both cylinders about 10 points through the "CO Mode", adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and tweaked the clutch lever (for ease of use), all this made for a much improved experience.



Hi there, I also did this and then put aftermarket cans and a Dynojet Power Commander and the difference was terrific.....changing the cans made a huge difference and the PC smoothed everything out.

#174 TANDEM

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 11:58 am

I've been thinking of getting a Power Commander for my 900, but still trying to convince myself it's worth the cost.
I have done the air box mod (everything else is standard). Do I need to revert the airbox mod, or will it make any difference if I go ahead with the Power Commander?

#175 Peter Watts

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 12:25 pm

QUOTE(TANDEM @ Tue 30th Jun 2009, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've been thinking of getting a Power Commander for my 900, but still trying to convince myself it's worth the cost.
I have done the air box mod (everything else is standard). Do I need to revert the airbox mod, or will it make any difference if I go ahead with the Power Commander?


I would do the PC (Power Commander) if you have changed the cans for aftermarke ones.
The stock cans house the catalysators and are darn heavy.
I used Carbon Cans (but they were Aluminium..) which were cheap, and sounded great, and they give you a map for the PC with it (Plus you can download lotsa maps and the PC tells you how to program it anyway) and with all this the TDM was fantastic.
And the sound is just like a Ducati. Intoxicating !!!!
And I still got over 13 miles per litre fuel consumption. It is quick to fit - the biggest hassle is lifting the tank to get to the plugs. It is all plug and play and can be reverted back later no problem at all. I never dynoed my bike but I perceive at least a 10% improvement in power, but the low down pull is incredible.

By the way the new PC has an optinal accessory to let you load 2 maps.

Then when you change your tires fit Michelin Pilot Road 2 tyres and it will drill any sports bike in the twisties. The only next thing it needs is MAYBE an Ohlins back shock.


#176 DevoTDM

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 06:46 am

I was going to suggest the STI unit raather than the power commander but Azza has commented on it in the Snatch Throttle thread.

Edited by DevoTDM, 09 July 2009 - 06:49 am.


#177 AzzA

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 08:08 am

QUOTE(DevoTDM @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 04:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I was going to suggest the STI unit raather than the power commander but Azza has commented on it in the Snatch Throttle thread.



I don't have any personal experience with the STI unit (also goes by another name out of the States) but it comes in cheaper than the PC and is simpler (no real need for a dyno, unlike the PC unless your exact setup has been reliably&repeatedly mapped&published before). I've heard of more than a few failures of the PC's, the KISS principle and the price make the STI attractive... but, following my tweaks (as posted above), I don't feel the need for one now.

I got my bike back, had an extended month long stay at the stealers after new tyres (PR2's), and I was really stunned by how well it behaved on the throttle. The snatch was gone, nice smooth torque curve... one might say, "carbie like"... I was so use to being jerked on take-off that it had tainted my expectation of how the bike was going to behave. I was nicely disappointed of my expectation. :-)

As for the first impressions of the new pair of PR2's: they turn in faster/swifter than the Dunlop Sportmax that had been fitted from new, they practically drop into corners by comparison. I can see why PR2's aren't liked by sportsbike riders; they'd make for a very twitchy bike with highly strung geometry. Very much at home on the TDM though.

gallery_10460_302_12664.png


#178 Peter Watts

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 08:55 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 09:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't have any personal experience with the STI unit (also goes by another name out of the States) but it comes in cheaper than the PC and is simpler (no real need for a dyno, unlike the PC unless your exact setup has been reliably&repeatedly mapped&published before). I've heard of more than a few failures of the PC's, the KISS principle and the price make the STI attractive... but, following my tweaks (as posted above), I don't feel the need for one now.

I got my bike back, had an extended month long stay at the stealers after new tyres (PR2's), and I was really stunned by how well it behaved on the throttle. The snatch was gone, nice smooth torque curve... one might say, "carbie like"... I was so use to being jerked on take-off that it had tainted my expectation of how the bike was going to behave. I was nicely disappointed of my expectation. :-)

As for the first impressions of the new pair of PR2's: they turn in faster/swifter than the Dunlop Sportmax that had been fitted from new, they practically drop into corners by comparison. I can see why PR2's aren't liked by sportsbike riders; they'd make for a very twitchy bike with highly strung geometry. Very much at home on the TDM though.


Can you give me a bit more on the STI system - I would like to research them. Can a TDM efi system be re-programmed for a 360 degree firing order?


#179 AzzA

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 11:29 am

QUOTE(Peter Watts @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 06:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Can you give me a bit more on the STI system - I would like to research them. Can a TDM efi system be re-programmed for a 360 degree firing order?



Oops... it is SFI not STI... whose idea was it to change the name. LOL

Check the other post (click me).


As for firing angle: Dunno, but you'd have to custom build your own crank if you're going to use a 900 motor... or were you planning to EFI an 850?

Edited by AzzA, 09 July 2009 - 11:32 am.

gallery_10460_302_12664.png


#180 dmmsta

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 03:13 pm

Just done the airbox mod (Opt.1 in the "how to...")

Having read most of this thread I was expecting a difference, but not quite as much as experienced.

Changes the way the bike is in the lower rev's. Is going to make filtering to the Blackwall Tunnel SO much easier, as I'll be able to hold gear's longer.

Understand why Yam put this in, but shame they had to, makes it a different bike!!

Highly recommended!
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