Seconded (or thirded) I have a Speed Triple that's quieter and more comfortable up to 80 mph than my '900. On the TDM I have tried the standard screen, a Yamaha tall screen, 2 double bubble screens and a MRA variable - I'm now back to the standard screen.

Noisy Screen!
#21
Posted 27 August 2009 - 11:14 am
Seconded (or thirded) I have a Speed Triple that's quieter and more comfortable up to 80 mph than my '900. On the TDM I have tried the standard screen, a Yamaha tall screen, 2 double bubble screens and a MRA variable - I'm now back to the standard screen.
2004 Triumph Speed Triple
2006 Honda Dylan (I know but I don't care when it gets dirty, dropped or stolen)
Gone but not forgotten
2006 TDM900A. Airbox mod (thanks JBX), Fuel cans, Safety lights, Garmin GPS,
2003 TDM900. As above.
#22
Posted 27 August 2009 - 12:20 pm
This changed dramatically when i got some straighter handlebars wich made me sit about 10cm forward with the upper body. Very little wind pressure, and no turbulence

Before modifying the screen, move about a bit on the bike at speed. Try leaning forward, or ducking down. It will be a good indication of what will be a better alternative.
#23
Posted 27 August 2009 - 11:08 pm

Stebel Compact Nautilus Air-Horn with Eastern Beaver relay kit, Eastern Beaver PC-8 switched fusebox, Powerlet BMW style power socket
plus controller & heated gloves for the missus. Oxford v7 Heated Grips, V-Strom 650 HandGuards, Fenda extenda.
#24
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:05 pm

There's a difference between shaving and cutting your head off.

I my case the turbulence was almost gone when i had my head 2" forward.
Not exactly hugging the tank.

A small change in driving position can make a big difference, so it's worth trying out before starting to modify the bike.
#25
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 02 September 2009 - 11:09 am
finally got the much anticipated Vario screen, for all the high tech, very disappointing. It does clear up turbulence but reduces wind noise very little.
Took note of Tedeum and GuyGraham (good name that) but wanted to try double bubble so bought cheap one. No better than vario. As the shape would suggest the wind is pushed higher and concentrated to either side of centre. Cut double bubble down as per Tedeums post today and after first cut, cut again and now have that lovely clear air for the helmet.
Sure its put some wind pressure back on shoulders and upper chest but thats not a problem.
Think db shape means you can cut lower to achieve same level as standard screen which means there is even less to see in front. No matter, either way it works. But if your stlye is for complete protectiuon then there is no substitute for tall and wide.
Not to be under appreciated maybe is the fact that the smaller screen made bike "feel" sportier partly because of the change in view but also the slight but nonetheless real reduction in affect on the steering. The bigger the screen the greater that effect.
Just to cap it off thought would put cut down db on top of vario, nope doesnt help.
Will now look for good db to cut down Thanks Tedeum and GuyGraham.
cheers Graeme (spelt proper)
I'm 6'3" and experienced the same thing
I tried a higher screen, but it didn't cure it and made the bike look like a tourer!
I then cut the screen lip off, so that the wind blast hits me in the chest instead of the helmet and BINGO!
This is what you are aiming for (with a std Yam Screen)

#26
Posted 02 September 2009 - 11:28 am
I had the bright idea of doing the hole trick on the standard screen.

That works a treat, much better ......
Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
#27
Posted 03 September 2009 - 03:48 pm
I had the bright idea of doing the hole trick on the standard screen.

That works a treat, much better ......
Hve you a template for the pattern u drilled, if so any cahnce of a copy please

#28
Posted 03 September 2009 - 09:11 pm
I changed the holes slightly , you can see them in the picture as red.
(first time I have done this so fingers crossed.)
I just printed it off, cut it smaller, stuck in on with some paste, and drilled it carefully.


Good Luck.
Ivan
Attached Files
Edited by Geordie Guy, 03 September 2009 - 09:21 pm.
Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
#29
Posted 03 September 2009 - 10:30 pm
I changed the holes slightly , you can see them in the picture as red.
(first time I have done this so fingers crossed.)
I just printed it off, cut it smaller, stuck in on with some paste, and drilled it carefully.


Good Luck.
Ivan
Cheers Ivan

In your opinion dies it make a lot of difference?
#30
Posted 04 September 2009 - 07:22 am
Now that you fellas have been having some success with venting the screens maybe there's hope for the Givi yet, I've dug it out of storage and bought some flexible ducting, but I'm not ready to start drilling just yet. The ducting is to vent some clean air to behind the screen, much the same as drilling holes but reversible should the taller screen still dump too much turbulence at chin level.
#31
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 04 September 2009 - 12:46 pm
Now that you fellas have been having some success with venting the screens maybe there's hope for the Givi yet, I've dug it out of storage and bought some flexible ducting, but I'm not ready to start drilling just yet. The ducting is to vent some clean air to behind the screen, much the same as drilling holes but reversible should the taller screen still dump too much turbulence at chin level.
Since you have a"useless" screen anyway why not cut it down to about the level of the fairing sides. Reckon you will be amazed. Its not just a matter of getting rid of turbulence, the wind noise as you yourself have said is a major problem. Getting the head into clear air is the only way to go.
Cutting is done with a jigsaw or similar and if you lay sticky tape down first as a guide its easy. Clean up the cut with fine paper. Put more than a single layer of tape down to cover area of jigsaw slides so as to not scratch screen. Jif (liquid cleanser) does a fair job of cleaning up minor scratches by the way.
The holes might serve to cut turbulence but cant alter the amount of wind coming off the screen(noise).
cheers Graeme
#32
Posted 04 September 2009 - 01:47 pm
Just for fun, I've drilled a row of 9mm holes 4-5 inches below the top edge of the Givi touring screen... just to see what it does, if anything. Gotta do something to pass the time.
#33
Posted 05 September 2009 - 06:09 am
Yep, its up to personal prefferance. buy Im happy with thr reasults

Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
#34
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 05 September 2009 - 10:37 am
Just for fun, I've drilled a row of 9mm holes 4-5 inches below the top edge of the Givi touring screen... just to see what it does, if anything. Gotta do something to pass the time.
thats a good idea, will be interested to know what you find out. For myself, after thinking a bit have cut the vario screen down to a level that leaves head clear and without the airfoil. Seems smoother that double bubble cut down on a quick spin but will go for a ride tomorrow to check it out. Good luck with yours.
cheers
#35
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 06 September 2009 - 11:05 am
cheers[/quote]
I know you have all been on the edge of your seats waiting---
So, with the cut down Vario with no spoiler did 240 km and am happy. The borderline for the rough noisy air was just at the edge of the helmet. Pushing head a little higher was clear, slumping a little was noisy. So when home cut another half inch off and tidied up the earlier cut. This will do me thanks, wont even try putting the vario spoiler (probably will at some time just to see) on as the air is smooth enough coming off the fairly flat screen. Reckon anyone trying this should make the first cut on whatever screen they are using straight across from about the top of the fairing and try it. You will be able to feel where the air flow line is and cut the screen down in stages to reach the point that is right for you. Tried it at speed and the effect is only improved, was still able to sit up straight, the pressure on shoulders is not great. After ride I definitely felt fresher, that wind noise is tiring, anyone who has worked noisy machinery without protection can vouch for that. Interestingly, riding at this marginal point showed that moving back a little improved things while moving closer to screen was worse. I am about 5 11 and as you can see have cut the screen fairly low to achieve result. The double bubble done earlier was to about the same level which only shows the effect using either shape is about the same, i guess the double bubble isnt sufficiently formed when cut down this low to have any great pushing up effect to the air flow. The DB airflow was less smooth though, that did strike me with this Vario shape, that the air coming of it was smooth even without the airfoil. We have had strong winds fpr ages now, almost daily and while today was the best for a while I still had a bit of headwind coming home in places and the effect on the steering was noticeably less. It felt great to be out in the breeze, sure a bit cooler but the bike character is changed and i liked it!
Changed gearing as well but will do new post for that.
Edited by graeme, 06 September 2009 - 11:08 am.
#36
Posted 06 September 2009 - 11:30 am
I'm also 5'11" and have cut a Givi tourer screen down to the top of the fairing mounts... after all the effort I am still unhappy with where the air hits and the turbulence it causes under my helmet, so after today's ride I was contemplating doing a scallop like you have done. As it is, it's worse than the stock screen.
The ride the other day, without any visor, was the quietest ride I have had on the 9'er since I got it... and it was bloody pleasant!
It's a good job you done, by the look of the pic's, and it suites the lines of the fairing better than I had imagined it might. Looks like I'll be getting out a jigsaw again, this time however I'll use the handraulic jigsaw because the electric one only has one speed (k'n fast!) and it was welding the cut shut behind the blade as the cut progressed... had to snap the screen over my knee to break the seam.

Cheers,
AzzA
#37
Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:04 pm
I had the bright idea of doing the hole trick on the standard screen.

That works a treat, much better ......
Hey Ivan,
May be a silly question, but I assume that you kept all the holes the same size?
Template have various size holes, and the big ones look hugh, don't want to compromise strength of screen too much...
Cheers

-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
-----




#38
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:04 pm
I'm also 5'11" and have cut a Givi tourer screen down to the top of the fairing mounts... after all the effort I am still unhappy with where the air hits and the turbulence it causes under my helmet, so after today's ride I was contemplating doing a scallop like you have done. As it is, it's worse than the stock screen.
The ride the other day, without any visor, was the quietest ride I have had on the 9'er since I got it... and it was bloody pleasant!
It's a good job you done, by the look of the pic's, and it suites the lines of the fairing better than I had imagined it might. Looks like I'll be getting out a jigsaw again, this time however I'll use the handraulic jigsaw because the electric one only has one speed (k'n fast!) and it was welding the cut shut behind the blade as the cut progressed... had to snap the screen over my knee to break the seam.

Cheers,
AzzA
Hi Azza, no, thats no good, must be bloody fast!. But yes, what you say. At the straight across point it will be still to high but by standing up you should be able to feel the clear point, i dunno, 8 inches? above?. I dont know what the actual ratio is and it would vary a bit with shapes but the cut on the screen has a larger effect on the height at the helmet. I didnt bother to try the "no screen" option but am sure it would be quite good just with a bit more weight on the chest and it just wont look right. The thing to watch is that you dont cut the screen so as to leave the fairing sides exposed, thats why the leadin at either side. Found it useful to put the original edge of a screen up to mark the curves onto the "to be cut" section and mark with a texta. Was a bit worried that the deep cut might look crap but no, it looks shithot (IMHO). Just went over and measured it, with ruler across the tops of the cut screen (which is only a few mm abve the tips of the fairing) the lower cut is 65mm down. The lower bit is about 160mm wide when it starts to rise.
not a sharp pic but shows from other side
Good luck.
cheers
Edited by graeme, 06 September 2009 - 12:06 pm.
#39
Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:28 pm

Sounds just like a Mk1 screen

"Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder"


click here to read: "Adventure Riding Assumption of Risk"
#40
Posted 06 September 2009 - 01:06 pm
May be a silly question, but I assume that you kept all the holes the same size?
Template have various size holes, and the big ones look hugh, don't want to compromise strength of screen too much...
Cheers
No the inner ones are bigger. I think I used a 3.5mm and a 2.5mm for the outer rings.
On the pattern on the word document, I followed the same size as shown. I did that on the skidmarx touring screen, with brilliant results, aswel.

Screen seems fine obviously there will be some comprmise in strength but I cant tell the difference.
Cheers, Ivan
Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
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