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Noisy Screen!


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#41 dmmsta

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 10:48 am

QUOTE(Geordie Guy @ Sun 6th Sep 2009, 02:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No the inner ones are bigger. I think I used a 3.5mm and a 2.5mm for the outer rings.

On the pattern on the word document, I followed the same size as shown. I did that on the skidmarx touring screen, with brilliant results, aswel.


Screen seems fine obviously there will be some comprmise in strength but I cant tell the difference.

Cheers, Ivan


Nice one...I'll have a go this evening pimp.gif yeahyeahyeah.gif
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#42 AzzA

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 11:15 pm

QUOTE(graeme @ Sun 6th Sep 2009, 10:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...
Was a bit worried that the deep cut might look crap but no, it looks shithot (IMHO). Just went over and measured it, with ruler across the tops of the cut screen (which is only a few mm abve the tips of the fairing) the lower cut is 65mm down. The lower bit is about 160mm wide when it starts to rise.
not a sharp pic but shows from other side

Good luck.
cheers



Thanks Graeme,

more or lessly followed your measurements using radius found on my trusty old Math-O-Matt. That material and shape is a pig to cut by hand, files up nicely though, but it's done and road tested.

Result: Nigh on as good as not having a screen at all, no turbulence at the helmet, but with perceivably less blast weight on the upper body. I like it!

Cheers,
AzzA

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#43 Guest_graeme_*

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:56 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Tue 8th Sep 2009, 09:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks Graeme,

more or lessly followed your measurements using radius found on my trusty old Math-O-Matt. That material and shape is a pig to cut by hand, files up nicely though, but it's done and road tested.

Result: Nigh on as good as not having a screen at all, no turbulence at the helmet, but with perceivably less blast weight on the upper body. I like it!

Cheers,
AzzA



Great news! Really good when a plan comes together. yahoo.gif
cheers graeme

Edited by graeme, 10 September 2009 - 11:52 am.


#44 Guest_graeme_*

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 11:57 am

for anyone interested a few pics have been done of the final screen, here


#45 MCBodge

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 12:30 pm

QUOTE(graeme @ Thu 10th Sep 2009, 12:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
for anyone interested a few pics have been done of the final screen, here


Good work.

I've now started with raising the screen from the fairing with spacers

If necessary, I'm going to spend some time on Monday fettling my screen further to reduce the turbulence.

Then may enlarge the hole in the screen
If they don't work, only then will I try cutting the screen.....

Edited by MCBodge, 10 September 2009 - 09:59 pm.


#46 dmmsta

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 12:36 pm

QUOTE(graeme @ Thu 10th Sep 2009, 12:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
for anyone interested a few pics have been done of the final screen, here


Not sure I like the look of the bike with the cut down screen...

It'll be a last resort for me.

That all said, your changes are quality work!
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#47 AzzA

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 12:59 pm

I recommend giving the bike a run without any screen, just so that you have a base-line to work from of what "clean air" really is, but make sure you pocket any loose well-nuts (the rubber bits the screws go into) before you ride off and lose them.

I must have paid about A$140 odd for the screen that I cut down, but it's worth more to me in it's diminished state than it was whole, previously it was waste of plastic.

PS Graeme, your bike is far too clean and shiny! wink.gif

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#48 MCBodge

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 09:07 am

Having fitted 10mm long tubing spacers to the 2 lower screen screws (compressed to about 8mm when tightened) last night, I rode the bike to work this morning.

It may be placebo, but at 70mph the buffeting/discomfort did feel as if it had been reduced
-Putting my hand behind the screen I could feel an airstream coming up from the bottom of the screen, which is what I was hoping for good.gif

I may try spacing the middle screws to see if there is any further improvement.

I'll need longer screws if I'm to use thicker spacers though.

#49 giza

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 10:25 am

QUOTE(MCBodge @ Fri 11th Sep 2009, 07:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Having fitted 10mm long tubing spacers to the 2 lower screen screws (compressed to about 8mm when tightened) last night, I rode the bike to work this morning.

It may be placebo, but at 70mph the buffeting/discomfort did feel as if it had been reduced
-Putting my hand behind the screen I could feel an airstream coming up from the bottom of the screen, which is what I was hoping for good.gif

I may try spacing the middle screws to see if there is any further improvement.

I'll need longer screws if I'm to use thicker spacers though.


G'day.
I just did this mod on mine. I used some 4mm rubber sheet I got from somewhere, cut & doubled up, drilled and mounted with longer metal screws!! (half of the original plastic jobs broke!) And Yes ! make sure you hang on to the "well nuts" I lost 3 of mine and had to replace with aftermarket which arent quite as good. You will have to watch out for changed angles on the screws into the fairing due to the spacing. I'm hoping the rubber nuts and spacers will cushion things a bit.

I now have an approx. 5-6mm gap all round. haven't done a good run yet but so far it seems to have settled things down nicely both wind and noise.
I'm trying this first as it can be reversed easily (resale and all that). I did consider a couple or three holes at the screen base, we'll see.

cheers Giza

#50 AzzA

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 10:37 am

Anything you can do to reduce the pocket of low pressure behind the screen will help to allow a less-disturbed flow over the top of the screen. When I played around with drilling holes in my screen I noticed on test rides that pieces of swarf would dance around on the back of the screen, obviously they're held there by static charge but the pattern/area they moved within showed an area where a relative vacuum gets created at speed... and this will pull air back down from the edge of the screen, reduce this vacuum effect and the air will flow freer over the screen... this is why well designed laminar flow screens are so popular. So far, the best option for the TDM would appear to be Shane from Tassie's (AKA TDMtoraneko) and his "TigerScreen".

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#51 MCBodge

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 10:47 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Fri 11th Sep 2009, 11:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Anything you can do to reduce the pocket of low pressure behind the screen will help to allow a less-disturbed flow over the top of the screen.


Indeed. I'll try to increase the gap to find an optimum compromise between wind protection and buffeting.

My Ermax screen does already have a slot about 3/4 of the way up the screen just before the 'up-kick' at the top of the screen which was probably included by the manufacturer to reduce the problem.

I'd prefer to open up the gap around the edge rather than drill a Yamaha symbol as I can create a bigger, smoother air intake with less work.

#52 Guest_graeme_*

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 12:30 pm

QUOTE(dmmsta @ Thu 10th Sep 2009, 10:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Not sure I like the look of the bike with the cut down screen...It'll be a last resort for me.That all said, your changes are quality work!
Thanks dmmsta, i can understand your doubt about the look, its a big change from the touring screen you have but you quickly come to accept it i think.The view from the saddle is less obstructed and that was more significant than i had thought it would be. The most important thing is the change to the riding experience and as Azza suggestes maybe take the screen off altogether just to get an idea of what you are missing. Standard replacements in a variety of colours are available from hereMaybe one of them would be a good option to cut down. Like Azza though, my 254 dollar Vario is worth more cut down that new as it didnt really solve anything as it wascheers Graeme
QUOTE(AzzA @ Thu 10th Sep 2009, 10:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I recommend giving the bike a run without any screen, just so that you have a base-line to work from of what "clean air" really is, but make sure you pocket any loose well-nuts (the rubber bits the screws go into) before you ride off and lose them.I must have paid about A$140 odd for the screen that I cut down, but it's worth more to me in it's diminished state than it was whole, previously it was waste of plastic.PS Graeme, your bike is far too clean and shiny! wink.gif
I know, sickening aint it. Trying to keep it looking good. Promise that when it gets dirty will post a pic.cheers Graeme

#53 dmmsta

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 12:52 pm

QUOTE(graeme @ Fri 11th Sep 2009, 01:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks dmmsta, i can understand your doubt about the look, its a big change from the touring screen you have


Still running the std screen at the moment.
It was a want when I 1st got the bike to try to assists with the wind/noise issues, but after reading the forum (this thread specifically) the after market screen may not be required.

Don't really have the spare cash at the moment to try different screens, so going to try the DIY route to start with & go from there...

You're probably right about the "getting used" to the change of image with the cut down, so dependant on the outcome of the DIY stuff I might get another std screen and attack it.
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#54 MCBodge

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 10:58 am

I'm now sure that lifting the screen has reduced buffeting a bit, although wind noise is still quite bad -That's a separate issue though.




#55 Guest_graeme_*

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 11:28 am

QUOTE(MCBodge @ Sat 12th Sep 2009, 08:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm now sure that lifting the screen has reduced buffeting a bit, although wind noise is still quite bad -That's a separate issue though.


I understand the sense behind letting some air in around the screen but the volume coming over the top is such that the gap thing can only make a small difference. I would also reckon that that gap would produce some noise of its own?
cheers Graeme

#56 AzzA

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:41 am

I've been wondering if micro vortex generators would help the cause, either a row of them at the bottom of the screen or a row on the top of the screen. The idea is to... (you're better off looking at this , or this, than have me try and explain it to ya)

I guess it's time to hack up some more plastic, whip out the double sided tape, and MacGyver me some MVG's to try it out.

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#57 dmmsta

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 10:48 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Sun 13th Sep 2009, 09:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've been wondering if micro vortex generators would help the cause, either a row of them at the bottom of the screen or a row on the top of the screen. The idea is to... (you're better off looking at this , or this, than have me try and explain it to ya)

I guess it's time to hack up some more plastic, whip out the double sided tape, and MacGyver me some MVG's to try it out.


It that the things like they have on the rear of the Lancer Evo roof??


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#58 Cavey

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 11:22 am

QUOTE(dmmsta @ Sun 13th Sep 2009, 11:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It that the things like they have on the rear of the Lancer Evo roof??




Nah, that's just bolt on chav bling. Lots more of it seen here
It's not having what you want, it's wanting what you've got.

#59 AzzA

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 12:35 am

Oh look, the one in the middle's got a stiffy! rotflmmfao.gif

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#60 AzzA

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 09:18 am

QUOTE(AzzA @ Sun 13th Sep 2009, 06:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've been wondering if micro vortex generators would help the cause, either a row of them at the bottom of the screen or a row on the top of the screen. The idea is to... (you're better off looking at this , or this, than have me try and explain it to ya)

I guess it's time to hack up some more plastic, whip out the double sided tape, and MacGyver me some MVG's to try it out.



OK, testing done, ended up using rubber furniture buffers... the kind that look like chocolate blocks... 12mm x 12mm x 5mm, set along the rear edge of fairing and screen at ~30mm spacing.

Result:- the layer of air that hits the rider is diffused more so than before. The "hard" layer of turbulent air, the point where you can feel it on gloved fingers, gets softened and lifted about 10-15cm (at the rider, speeds around 80-100kmh). With the cut down screen, there is noticeably less blast on the upper body. With the stock screen, there is change but it still means that the blast hits the lower helmet area... so it's still damn noisy.

So, it could help if your satisfaction is marginal with your existing screen.

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