
900 Air Box Mod....fantastic!
#181
Posted 20 July 2009 - 07:47 am
1999 Gilera Runner 125SP, 2002 Piaggio X9 250, 2004 Bandit 600, 2005 TDM 900, 2007 Honda CB1300S, , 2008 Tiger 1050, 1996 Triumph Sprint 9002006 Tiger 955i, 2018 Triumph Tiger Sport, 2023 Triumph Tiger 900, XJR1300, 2011 (2009) TDM 900,
Farkles - Laser Duo Techs, MTC Stainless Exhausts, Laser Duo Techs, Power Commander and custom map, Tenere 1200 Handguards, Yamaha Heated Grips, MRA Vario screen, SW Motech Alurack, Givi and Hepco and Becker top boxes, Givi Engine bars, Garmin Zumo XT
#182
Posted 20 July 2009 - 09:48 am
No need to seal the pipe at each end.once its enough

#183
Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:43 pm
I also enriched both cylinders about 10 points through the "CO Mode", adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and tweaked the clutch lever (for ease of use), all this made for a much improved experience.
Excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the CO Mode and is that what everyone uses to check their CO settings/make adjustments?
#184
Posted 15 November 2009 - 10:11 pm
G'day,
your ignorance is excused, because you have already sought remedy.

Follow this link to JBX's site, it's all laid out there, you might have to click a few times though... his host service is a bit slow at times, but the information is worth the effort. (It's under the "DOCUMENTS" menu if you don't get connected straight away... you may even need to register, which is free and SPAM free too.)
There's no scientific/engineering method of testing; it's just what works for you and your bike. Aim for smooth take-off's and low (crawling) speed handling, without hesitancy on acceleration. You will know what's right and wrong; you'll feel it.
Since my last post I have found, a others have concurred, that plus 20-ish CO points (to your original settings) are the most beneficial. (NOTE: This has been for after-market or modified stock exhausts, so it may be less for stock due to less flow.)
Cheers,
AzzA
#185
Posted 15 November 2009 - 11:00 pm
your ignorance is excused, because you have already sought remedy.

Follow this link to JBX's site, it's all laid out there, you might have to click a few times though... his host service is a bit slow at times, but the information is worth the effort. (It's under the "DOCUMENTS" menu if you don't get connected straight away... you may even need to register, which is free and SPAM free too.)
There's no scientific/engineering method of testing; it's just what works for you and your bike. Aim for smooth take-off's and low (crawling) speed handling, without hesitancy on acceleration. You will know what's right and wrong; you'll feel it.
Since my last post I have found, a others have concurred, that plus 20-ish CO points (to your original settings) are the most beneficial. (NOTE: This has been for after-market or modified stock exhausts, so it may be less for stock due to less flow.)
Cheers,
AzzA
Thanks for the reply Azza,
have been to JBX's site and printed the necersary docs.
#186
Posted 16 November 2009 - 03:33 am
#187
Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:15 am

#188
Guest_graeme_*
Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:28 am

Hi Ibi, the 14-16 seems to be a very common standard setting. After market pipes will almost show a great improvement to the backfiring as well as general running if you change them to ,say, 30-32. You can alter further or change them back, it wont hurt engine. Remember also to let the throttle go completely off to minimise any backfires, there is no fuel flow when "off" but a little as you open throttle, thats when the backfire will be at its worst.
cheers Graeme
#189
Posted 16 November 2009 - 11:16 am
,Why does some set up C1 on 16 an C2 on 20,does it make a difference,can someone explain bit more about the C0 mode and why do we need to adjust it.I have staintune aftermarket pipes on the TDm.Thanks boys
G'day and welcome to Carpe,
The CO settings are originally tuned in the factory, to make even any manufacturing variations. One bike might arrive for sale with C1=16 & C2=20, another with 12 & 5, another with -5 & 2, mine turned up with 8 & 8. Think of it as the "CO Lotto".
Generally you will want to keep the two cylinders even, so if you raise C1 by 5 points you should raise C2 by 5 also.
You would only want to change the CO balance when you rebalance the throttle bodies, or you were trying to compensate for a hot running cylinder etc... basically, just keep the balance your bike came new with unless you're doing a proper service with the proper instrumentation.
Cheers,
AzzA
Edit:
PS you will, most likely, need to adjust your idle speed to compensate for the change of mixture.
Edited by AzzA, 16 November 2009 - 11:19 am.
#190
Posted 22 November 2009 - 12:24 pm

#191
Posted 14 April 2010 - 07:21 pm
What a difference, bike didn't feel lumpy as if it was in the wrong gear and the roll on pick up was improved. Wished I had done this mod when I first bought the bike.
A big thanks to JBX for the mod and his easy to follow instructions.
#192
Posted 31 May 2010 - 03:17 pm
PS - I enjoy it so much that I have bought a new TDM - (and that has benefited from the airbox mod as well)
In sum - a big thanks to the Carpe Forum - extremely useful advice!
Sean
Edited by SeanW, 31 May 2010 - 03:18 pm.
#193
Posted 13 September 2010 - 05:30 pm
Now for the screen....
#194
Posted 27 March 2011 - 08:38 pm
Now got to find out if the TPS has been done. I couldn't see anything noted in the service book - is there a sticker to look for or is it a case of take it to the dealer?
#195
Posted 27 March 2011 - 09:05 pm
#196
Posted 27 March 2011 - 11:27 pm
(1974....KTM Comet Cross, RD250B, XS750, Wife & kids, DT175, Suzuki GT500, XT500, XT500 (modified), ZX-10 (the 1st one!), Yamaha TT600R, Suzuki GT750B, GT750K, '04 TDM900, GSX1100F, '07 TDM900A, '06 FJR1300A
#197
Posted 30 March 2011 - 08:45 am
It seems to have improved the already excellent fuel efficiency as well. I still had 4 bars showing at 200km. Usually The bike drops to 3 bars at around the 180km. This may be due to being able to putt around at lower revs...?
Also found out by ringing Yamaha Australia directly that my particular bike hasn't had its TPS changed, despite several stamped Yamaha dealer servicing since the recall was issued in 2006.
They also mentioned that if the recall work has been done, there will be a sticker under the seat area with the date and recall number written on it. I will take a photo of it after mine gets done shortly. Not sure if this applies for other countries or not.
#198
Posted 10 April 2011 - 06:55 pm
#199
Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:33 pm
I have only had the bike for 450 kms so cannot accurately judge changes yet, but I did the airbox mod yesterday, disconnected the rubber tube at the top of the airbox and blocked it off, but immediately afterwards, dropped my wife's Raptor off the sidestand and tore a hamstring muscle catching it. No damage to the Raptor

My question/comment is, when I cleaned the bike and had a wee play with it, I removed the baffles in the Scorpion exhausts and was amazed at the amount of soot. That would mean that the bike is running very rich, in my opinion, but it has a Power Commander fitted. I have no idea of the mapping in the PC and even if I did I think I would be stuck.
Is it possible to still modify the ECU through the dash to lean the mixture even though there is a PC in the loop? Is the soot an indication of richness or just soot?
Any comments are appreciated.
Cheers
Scorpion cans
Power Commander (under review)
#200
Posted 28 May 2011 - 05:21 am
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