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#1 Guest_nils_*

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 09:45 pm

I've seen some posts about putting on higher screens, but I've not seen any post about removing the screen.

I get the wind right in the middle of my helmet and I always wear earplugs because of all the noise the turbulent wind makes.

Today I removed my wind screen on my 900 and went for a short ride. I rode at about 130 km/h and it was total silence. good.gif

The wind hit me about 5 cms below the helmet and I expect to get more strain on my neck muscles when riding on freeways for longer periods, but the air is clean without any buffeting or noise. tongue.gif

Are there any lower screens on the market?

/Nils

#2 duibhce Kaelann

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 11:04 pm

QUOTE(nils @ Sun 20th Aug 2006, 11:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've seen some posts about putting on higher screens, but I've not seen any post about removing the screen.

I get the wind right in the middle of my helmet and I always wear earplugs because of all the noise the turbulent wind makes.

Today I removed my wind screen on my 900 and went for a short ride. I rode at about 130 km/h and it was total silence. good.gif

The wind hit me about 5 cms below the helmet and I expect to get more strain on my neck muscles when riding on freeways for longer periods, but the air is clean without any buffeting or noise. tongue.gif

Are there any lower screens on the market?

/Nils


try it like this (all you need is an angle grinder):


Edited by duibhce Kaelann, 20 August 2006 - 11:05 pm.

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#3 Jez

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 07:06 am

I too am interested in reducing screen height but have not had the bottle to cut down my screen yet.

That looks very neat duibhce but does anyone know how much of an impact on weather protection a smaller screen has?

PS I do not wish to hijack nils's thread so please do not forget the original question. good.gif
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#4 duibhce Kaelann

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 07:15 am

QUOTE(Jez @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 08:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That looks very neat duibhce but does anyone know how much of an impact on weather protection a smaller screen has?


I took the picture from the Dutch TDM/TRX forum. I haven't heard reports on weather protection, but those that have tried it where very pleased with the reduced buffeting.
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#5 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:25 am

before I removed my fairing completely, I cut down the original screen so that it was only a gentle curve from the corners of the fairing plastics, I wrapped lots of masking tape around it to eliminate the chances of scratching it, this is also good for drawing your chosen line on, I then cut it gently with a hacksaw with the blade regularly but lightly lubricated with oil to stop it sticking which can cause it to crack, I also rested it on tightly rolled up rags to keep it still while I cut it otherwise just leaning on it will probably break it, the finished result was much better for me with very little wind buffeting, I gave mine to Gary when he bought my fairing panels and he said he liked it.
I prefer no fairing at all or only very small ones.

ps. I should also say that I finished the edge with a file and fine sandpaper to make it smooth, and I did this with the masking tape still in place.

Edited by laughin in a windstorm, 21 August 2006 - 10:29 am.

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#6 ROB1

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 12:27 pm

QUOTE(laughin in a windstorm @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 01:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
before I removed my fairing completely, I cut down the original screen so that it was only a gentle curve from the corners of the fairing plastics, I wrapped lots of masking tape around it to eliminate the chances of scratching it, this is also good for drawing your chosen line on, I then cut it gently with a hacksaw with the blade regularly but lightly lubricated with oil to stop it sticking which can cause it to crack, I also rested it on tightly rolled up rags to keep it still while I cut it otherwise just leaning on it will probably break it, the finished result was much better for me with very little wind buffeting, I gave mine to Gary when he bought my fairing panels and he said he liked it.
I prefer no fairing at all or only very small ones.

ps. I should also say that I finished the edge with a file and fine sandpaper to make it smooth, and I did this with the masking tape still in place.

you can use a jig saw to cut perspex.use masking tape as liaw said draw yur lines & ct.doesnt take long & leaves a good finish.sut it down bit by bit till your happy with the results.

#7 Pict

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 12:37 pm

QUOTE(Jez @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 07:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That looks very neat duibhce but does anyone know how much of an impact on weather protection a smaller screen has?


I'm becoming convinced (largely thanks to LIAW's experience) that the screen, on this bike at least, is cosmetic rather than protective, and probably even a negative influence with regard to turbulence. Probably designed by a grand piano lid architect from the Yamaha musical instrument division? smile.gif

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#8 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 02:34 pm

QUOTE(ROB1 @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 01:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
you can use a jig saw to cut perspex.use masking tape as liaw said draw yur lines & ct.doesnt take long & leaves a good finish.sut it down bit by bit till your happy with the results.



yes you can use a jigsaw, but as it cuts relatively fast it heats and melts the plastic next to the blade, which is fine if you keep it moving, but if it stops, the melted area hardens very quickly which can jam the blade, so when you start its up and down motion again it is possible that it will crack the screen as it tries to pull it with the blade, so I'd still recommend using a lubricant with the jigsaw to guard against this problem, my other reason for using a hand held hacksaw is that the the blade area is bigger so there is less chance of going off the line as there is with a thinner blade and you have a better view of it too.
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#9 Guest_nils_*

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 03:34 pm

QUOTE(laughin in a windstorm @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 12:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
before I removed my fairing completely, I cut down the original screen so that it was only a gentle curve from the corners of the fairing plastics, I wrapped lots of masking tape around it to eliminate the chances of scratching it, this is also good for drawing your chosen line on, I then cut it gently with a hacksaw with the blade regularly but lightly lubricated with oil to stop it sticking which can cause it to crack, I also rested it on tightly rolled up rags to keep it still while I cut it otherwise just leaning on it will probably break it, the finished result was much better for me with very little wind buffeting, I gave mine to Gary when he bought my fairing panels and he said he liked it.
I prefer no fairing at all or only very small ones.

You wouldn't have a picture of your/Gary's screen?

Thanks.

/Nils

#10 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 03:59 pm

QUOTE(nils @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 04:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You wouldn't have a picture of your/Gary's screen?

Thanks.

/Nils

no sorry, but I'm sure Gary would oblige if you send him a pm.
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#11 Pict

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 10:00 pm

QUOTE(laughin in a windstorm @ Mon 21st Aug 2006, 03:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yes you can use a jigsaw, but as it cuts relatively fast it heats and melts the plastic next to the blade, which is fine if you keep it moving, but if it stops, the melted area hardens very quickly which can jam the blade, so when you start its up and down motion again it is possible that it will crack the screen as it tries to pull it with the blade, so I'd still recommend using a lubricant with the jigsaw to guard against this problem, my other reason for using a hand held hacksaw is that the the blade area is bigger so there is less chance of going off the line as there is with a thinner blade and you have a better view of it too.

With all the discussion about turbulence, short/long screens, cutting holes etc., what's this then, and does it work?

Edited by Pict, 22 August 2006 - 10:08 pm.

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#12 duibhce Kaelann

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 10:17 pm

QUOTE(Pict @ Tue 22nd Aug 2006, 11:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
With all the discussion about turbulence, short/long screens, cutting holes etc., what's this then, and does it work?


the theory behind it is simple: turbulence is caused by a difference in air pressure in front and above the screen and behind it. The holes should help air pressure behind the screen be closer to the front and above the screen.
Does it work? only one way to find out: try it rolleyes.gif

I had a screen with a slit on my divi which worked pretty well. But on the other hand other factors also play a role: your riding position and your height...
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#13 Pict

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 12:29 am

QUOTE(duibhce Kaelann @ Tue 22nd Aug 2006, 11:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
the theory behind it is simple: turbulence is caused by a difference in air pressure in front and above the screen and behind it. The holes should help air pressure behind the screen be closer to the front and above the screen.
Does it work? only one way to find out: try it rolleyes.gif

I had a screen with a slit on my divi which worked pretty well. But on the other hand other factors also play a role: your riding position and your height...


Yup - I remember ol' Julian explaining the science similarly. Just hadn't seen this (Honda, standard?) one before.

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#14 Lerk

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 05:47 am

I'm starting to think that rather than a deflector (blocking the wind) what is required is more of a wing (directing the wind)...

I put a small screen onto the bike's existing one last year, spaced out from the screen by about 1", I have this year made a more solid version of the same screen, which without the space between the two doesn't seem to work.

As someone said, a small hole gives higher (than standard) pressure behind the screen to cut turbulence... What if we create a higher pressure (although I don't know where this would come from!) or completely equal pressure behind the screen?

In my theory (sketchy aero/hydro dynamics) you will always get turbulence on the back edge of an object in the flow of air/water... an aerofoil however has far different properties than a flat plate...

Could this be the answer???

Calling anyone with a decent knowledge of aero/hydrodynamics to back up/dismiss this argument...

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#15 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 06:00 am

QUOTE(Pict @ Tue 22nd Aug 2006, 10:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
With all the discussion about turbulence, short/long screens, cutting holes etc., what's this then, and does it work?


that's somewhere to put your sunglasses if it gets dark before you get home.
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#16 Pict

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 06:26 am

QUOTE(laughin in a windstorm @ Wed 23rd Aug 2006, 06:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that's somewhere to put your sunglasses if it gets dark before you get home.

Oh, I thought it was a beer cooler - you put a couple of cans on top of the instrument binnacle, wrapped in a wet teatowel....... smile.gif
Seriously, though, I'm just curious to know the model. May even call up Honda.

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#17 wicklamulla

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 09:09 am

QUOTE(Pict @ Wed 23rd Aug 2006, 07:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Oh, I thought it was a beer cooler - you put a couple of cans on top of the instrument binnacle, wrapped in a wet teatowel....... smile.gif
Seriously, though, I'm just curious to know the model. May even call up Honda.



Pict i have seen several Deauvilles and ST1100's with this type of screen, i tink the equal pressure in front of and ahind the screen is the answer. i may as well have a go at drilling some holes or chopping a slot into my tall screen and see what happens, firstly oil fit it onto me bike and take some pics and measurements in order to get some educated onions from you guys and gurls as to where i shud start....... huh.gif

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#18 cupasoop

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 09:28 am

I found out on sunday that if I lie flat on the tank with my helmet right down behind the screen, it goes totally silent good.gif

Not very practical though rolleyes.gif


#19 brihol

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:23 am

One of the reasons I fitted an aftermarket screen on my 850 was that I wanted to sit fairly upright on the bike (back to discussions of "old-folks bike"). It's only 40mm taller and seems to have cured the problem of my shoulders being slightly buffeted, but it has increased the wind noise in my helmet (admittedly bought for price, rather than comfort), forcing me to wear earplugs for any but the shortest journies.

Obviously carving random holes in an expensive screen is not something anyone will undertake lightly without guidance from experts. I would think there should be no sharp transitions in any holes ie everyting in the shape should be smooth curves. Although slow I would also think the best plan for cutting would be to drill a hole through the screen at a suitable point and to hand cut it with say a 4mm abrafile - yes it will take a long time but you will be totally in control. I would also recommend spending quite a while smoothing, rounding and polishing any cut edges.

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Edited by brihol, 23 August 2006 - 10:38 am.


#20 wicklamulla

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:30 am

QUOTE(brihol @ Wed 23rd Aug 2006, 11:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
One of the reasons I fitted an aftermarket screen on my 850 was that I wanted to sit fairly upright on the bike (back to discussions of "old-folks bike"). It's only 40mm taller and seems to have cured the problem of my shoulders being slightly buffeted, but it has increased the wind noise in my helmet (admittedly bought for price, rather than comfort), forcing me to wear earplugs for any but the shortest journies.

Obviously carving random holes in an expensive screen is not something anyone will undertake lightly without guidance from experts. I would think there should be no sharp transitions in any holes ie everyting in the shape should be smooth curves. Although slow I would also think the best plan for cutting would be to drill a hole through the screen at a suitable point and to hand cut it with say a 4mm abrafile - yes it will take a long time but you will be totally in control.

Brian



aye well my tall screen was a freebie from AlunL and has a hole and a crack in it already !! so im not too concerned about messing it up, i will ponder the theory over the next few days....

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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