Relay Arm Removal

Can anyone tell me how the rear suspension linkage relay arm detaches from the frame lugs on my '07 TDM 900?

I've removed the bolts holding the bottom of the rear shock and the two linkage arms and also the bolt holding the relay arm to the frame lugs but it looks like there's a steel sleeve inserted from one side (so blind on the other side) - how do I get this out?

cheers

Dan

Hi Dan,
It's quite a hot topic this winter !

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=15455

Did mine last week,after getting information from the guys on the site.bought a set of stud extractors from machine mart ,heat up the nearside frame lug with heat gun for about 10-15 minutes then gently tap the extractor in and turn once it started to turn and sleeve moved I gave it a tap from the other side with a screwdiver and out it came.

OK, thanks for the replies.

I managed to get the thing out today without any drama so for anyone interested here's how I did it......

......The offending sleeve at the top fixing, not stuck particularly tight...... but with no access to it from the other side there's no apparent way of removing it.




I couldn't see a Yamaha special tool in the workshop manual and anyway I didn't fancy waiting ages to order one so, from the info gained here, I realised that the only way to get it out was to insert something into the sleeve which would expand and grip it from the inside. I paid a visit to my local tool merchant/ ironmongers and, for a couple of quid, bought a builders wall anchor fixing. I took the original bolt with me to make sure the anchor fixing I got was no 'fatter' than the original bolt - it needs to be 10mm or less - and as luck would have it they had a fixing suitable for a 10mm hole.




To give me something to tap with a hammer I dismantled the fixing and substituted the bolt for a long length of 8mm studding and a 8mm nut







I then inserted the assembly into the sleeve and tightened it up. It gripped really well and a couple of light taps soon had it out. Once it was out I just slackened off the 8mm nut and the sleeve was released.







I then made myself a cup of tea and congratulated myself on being a smart-ass b'stard

Joking aside, I think the most difficult part of tackling something like this is knowing when to stop and say to oneself 'hold it....I haven't got the correct tool to make a good job of this' and then waiting 'til the next day to go get whatever is required. The temptation to start using old screwdrivers etc. to try and get it out is strong but almost invariably ends up with summat broken or butchered

Dan

I would like to be the second to do so.

That really is a neato solution. Thank you for taking the time to share it...and with pics.

Looks loike a good candidate for the knowledgebase as this has been much discussed recently. Until now I had no idea what the issue was as I don't have a 9'er and it was difficult to imagine without pics.

Brilliant ! The guys a natural

Knowledge Base (maybe re-title the topic to make it easier to find ?)

Okey dokey will wait for comments to come in afore moving it over. Only 28 posts and already a "How To" guide......some have managed to get into the 1000's without a single useful comment.

At last, I've been recognised ....... .........

1,860 posts

Knowledgebase= 0

Er.....that'll be TWO 'How To's' if you don't mind !!

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=12147


SMUG, smart-ass b'stard !!



Dan

which leads me back to my previous comment about some have managed to get to 1000's without saying a single useful comment......even got that wrong.

Yer a ledge Studley, always offering useful info.

OK my comments.

Firstly well done Dan, buuuut I still have concerns about using a drift to knock out the pin without first heating the lugs to allow them to expand thus making the interference fit looser.

I note that Dan's bike is relatively new and I suspect there would have been much less steel/alloy corrosion around the pin which would have made release less of a problem.

I do like the expander bolt and have to say that the same idea had occured to me.

I will be shortly assisting "the son I never wanted" (aka JONNYBRAY) to do the same job. Jonny's bike has knocking on for 40K on the milometer and is used in all weathers, so it will be interesting to see how we get along.

I will ask JB to bring along his camera and we will do a storyboard which I hope will go alongside Dan's.

BD

I'm with Dave on this excellent idea but a little worried about drifting from the blind side. On an older bike this could still break the lug. However, if used from new then the seizing will not occur.

CB

Agreed that an older bike would be less cooperative.
If you have an older bike you would probably give it a plusgas soaking or the like.

It would be very interesting to see how that tool performs on an older model.

I also vote for KB if only for the creativity of designing the tool in the first place.
I'm guessing there may be other places where it could be used as well.

Everyone should post this on their garage/workshop wall.

Cheers Dave, thanks for the input...


I agree absolutely with the heating up of the (left hand) lug where anything more than a light tap is required, as this would tend to loosen the steel sleeve due to expansion. In my case, very little effort was needed to drive the sleeve out, certainly nothing like the force required to break the lug, probably, as you say, because the bike is only a couple of years old and wouldn't have had time to build up any excessive corrosion.

The good news is that, contrary to what you might think, the steel sleeve is NOT an interference fit in the lug and when cleaned and lightly lubed, it will slide in and out of the hole with nil effort. If it was an interference fit, boy, oh boy there would be some cursing going on !!

If the sleeve is well and truly rusted in then how about a slight modification to my 'Sleeve-o-Matic' ( ) sleeve removing tool.....

First insert and fully tighten the exanding bolt/ studding assembly as before but a bit further in to give some clearance and with more of the studding protruding on the nearside, like so....




Next, slide a piece of suitable tubing or w.h.y over the studding - something big enough to accept the diameter of the sleeve but small enough to fit snugly against the flat part of the lug - I used a long Halfords 19mm socket in my mock up .....followed by a washer and a second 8mm nut.




Lastly, simply tighten the exposed nut and, in theory, it should draw the sleeve into socket. Because the tool is now acting as an extractor, rather than a drift, then there is no chance of breaking the lug due to shock loading.

I say 'in theory' because as my sleeve is not stuck then I have no way of trying it out. The question is, of course, whether the amount of grip afforded by the anchor bolt is sufficient to break the corrosive bond betwixt sleel and alloy. All I will say is that I am in the building trade and I can tell you that once those anchor bolts are tightened up in their normal use (brickwork, masonry, etc.) they ain't coming out in a hurry !! The force exerted is such that they will easily burst a brick if over tightened.

It will be interesting to see if anybody tries this method whether or not it works. My gut feeling is that given copious amounts of penetrating fluid, plenty of heat (but not too much) and an extractor tool similar to this set up, then stuck relay arm sleeves are history.

Dan

Hi Dan

that's exactly the technique I had in mind but with a bit of heat

BD

Great minds think alike then, eh Dave !

Looks like you're a bit of a dirt junkie just like meself.... about the same age too....

only difference between us is - you're probably really good whereas I'm gradually trying to work my way up to being 'crap', ha ha.

cheers mate

Dan