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Battery removal mk11


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#1 Guest_Mungas_*

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 10:17 am

Hi , just thought i'de describe how i done it, that sucka is packed in there well!
At first i thought thers no way that is coming out without rear shock removal , well heres how i done it in under 25 ninuets.

1== Remove side panels
2== Remove seat
3== undo tank mounting bolts/turn off fuel cok/remove fuel pipes/ remove tank from bike (no smoking)
4== undo battery wires black/red
5== remove 2 battery box retaining bolts
6== remove 2 fuel pump bolts ( move fuel pump to one side)
7== lift and turn battery box so wires are facing the floor. and lift out thru hole betweem the top of suspension and air box.
8== fitting oppsosite of removal..

The reason i had to do this was to add a optimizer connection lead so when i leave the parking light on and totally drain the battery i can re chasrge it eassy..
Don't try to bump start these beasts on ya own it makes you look dam stupid in the middle of the street and makes you feel like ya heart is gonna rupture out of ya ribcage...got a feeling that no petrol was getting to carbs as fuel pump not working...
another job sorted... on to the next one,.... the clutch!!! eeek!
mungas.

#2 dapleb

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 11:09 am

http://www.carpe-tdm...o...&hl=battery
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#3 andyj

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 12:30 pm

QUOTE(Mungas @ Tue 31st Oct 2006, 10:02 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The reason i had to do this was to add a optimizer connection lead so when i leave the parking light on and totally drain the battery i can re chasrge it eassy..


Er. What was wrong with bolting it to the remote connection points exposed at the front the moment you take the seat off (which is where I've connected my auxiliary power socket to)? Why go to all that trouble?
Another boring night & I'm feeling pissed....

#4 wicklamulla

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 07:05 pm

QUOTE(andyj @ Tue 31st Oct 2006, 12:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Er. What was wrong with bolting it to the remote connection points exposed at the front the moment you take the seat off (which is where I've connected my auxiliary power socket to)? Why go to all that trouble?




im tinking that too !

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#5 cupasoop

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 07:13 pm

Sorry to stick me neb in here but can these remote connection points also be used for a battery charger seeing as i've got a flat battery) sad.gif

Always wondered what those wires under the seat were for.


#6 wicklamulla

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 07:57 pm

QUOTE(cupasoop @ Tue 31st Oct 2006, 06:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sorry to stick me neb in here but can these remote connection points also be used for a battery charger seeing as i've got a flat battery) sad.gif
Always wondered what those wires under the seat were for.





yes indeedy they can, i attached me optimate lead onto them.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#7 Guest_GuyGraham_*

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 08:00 pm

You should always disconnect the negative from the frame when charing the battery, else you can damage the charging system.
Positive is OK as it is, as it doesn't make a circuit until the igintion switch is turned on.

#8 cupasoop

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 10:03 pm

Cheers all. If i can brave the cold tomorrow i'll be out in the garage, err charging good.gif


#9 Andy850

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 01:40 am

QUOTE(cupasoop @ Tue 31st Oct 2006, 01:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sorry to stick me neb in here but can these remote connection points also be used for a battery charger seeing as i've got a flat battery) sad.gif

Always wondered what those wires under the seat were for.


Nifty for jump starting a dead battery with jumper wires from a car - just remove the seat.


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