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Fuel Pump Is Under Suspicion?

Started by Taras , Aug 22 2011 09:57 am

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#1 Taras

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:57 am

So, it happened for me 3 times for last 5-6000 km. Engine just stops on the road (first time, before fuel levels check the second cylinder stopped 500 meters after the first one, the last time both switched off together).

I am parking, thinking what a hell ranting.gif , switching on the reserve, thinking again, trying to start and one cylinder is coming up, after another 30 seconds the second one is back and in a minute I am running well again. On a petrol station I fill up my tank with just 8.5L, so it wasn't a reserve point, I used to fill up with 12L before reserve.

I think that is 99% fuel problem.

I suspect that fuel pump is giving up sometimes. Need to open it and check from the inside.

Any other ideas/suggestions guys? help.gif

#2 Taras

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 10:33 am

In addition - it happened on quite low rpm - about 3000-3500.

#3 brianvg

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 10:40 am

A lot of people on here seem to have replaced the crappy stock pump that runs on manifold vacuum with an electric one. It is definitely on my list of things to do. I have been stranded a couple times cranking the hell out of the bike trying to get it started after the pump ran dry.

Often by the time it has been cranked enough to get the pump going again, the battery is already dead! Not sure about what models'/years' electric pumps will fit the TDM though. I guess a search on here should turn that up. Replacing the stock fuel pump is high up on my list of mods to do on my bike.

#4 Taras

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 10:50 am

Yes, it happened to me several times as well. You just need to be calm and wait about 5-10 minutes, no cases with dead battery then pimp.gif. Manual says that fuel should pass the pump even with engine off, but the flow is quite weak according to my tests.

Yes, I've seen a lot of topics about that here (I guess it was about TDM-2 and R1 electro fuel pumps).

Edited by Taras, 22 August 2011 - 10:51 am.

#5 dapleb

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 11:32 am

19 years without replacement is not so bad for a pump. If t'wer me (and indeed it was) oid gofer anudder mech pump, keep it simple . Someone found a supplier of pamps on ebay for not very much money.
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#6 Taras

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 11:50 am

"oid gofer anudder" - nice combination of words for not natives, I should remember that good.gif

#7 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 03:43 pm


Twere dis wan wot Dappers wirr refurrin two smile.gif

http://www.ebay.co.u...5-/180615412077

It's gone up in price since Sidestand bought his and it's now £55+P&P I dunno if you'd get a cheaper one elsewhere tho dunno.gif

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#8 brianvg

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 04:22 pm

Something to be said for being able to roll start the bike having run out of gas and having a dead battery. I guess the mech pumps do have their good points. :-)

#9 robsonthejob

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 06:07 pm

Same problems as me, Pump fixed it. I used a mech pump, no issues with overfilling carbs etc.

#10 masterbrewer

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:44 pm

good.gif

I had a similar problem a couple of summers ago, turned out that the in line fuel filter was getting an air lock on hot days & starving the carbies. At least I got plenty of practice playing with the fuel tap at speed before the bike stops completely. blush.gif

I'd stay with the mech one too, when you look inside they are so simple.

Good luck

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#11 Taras

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:15 am

Yep, the problem was with fuel pump. The diaphragm was stretched a bit and bolts were loosened. I tightened bolts and problem was solved.

But I decided to get back to membrane and replace it with a new one. It is done and new membrane works fine. I'll get back with note what material I used and foto.

#12 dapleb

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:24 am

QUOTE(Taras @ Mon 24th Oct 2011, 09:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'll get back with note what material I used and foto.

Yes peas.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#13 dapleb

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:03 pm

Any news on this Taras? I know that I coulda fixed me ole wan with the right material....and an udder member is looking to dismantle his at the mo.....
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#14 Readmarx

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:05 pm

Nice one Tarras

Useful...

Yamaha don't sell the membrane separately, they just sell the whole pump
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#15 Taras

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:43 pm

I am back, sorry for delay, but this winter time.. no cause to think about bikes.

So, I piked up very similar material to my membrane - the thickness, the stiffness, etc., then I cut a piece of it and put it into petrol for a several days to be sure that petrol doesn't affect it at all.

I've done about 100 km so far, no problem. Will see how long it will work next season.

There are some photos:



Old membrane a bit stretched but was ok.



The most interesting question - what is the material??? It is X-ray photo of my backbone smile.gif


Edited by Taras, 30 December 2011 - 12:47 pm.

#16 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:58 pm


rotflmmfao.gif Your a genius ! Well done !

Be interested to know if it works ok when the fuel level is very low.

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#17 Taras

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:04 pm

Well, I made a test with empty bottle as output and bottle with petrol as input below the pump level (so just pump force, no free flow through) - new membrane was a bit more productive (about 10-20%).

Edited by Taras, 30 December 2011 - 01:07 pm.

#18 dapleb

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:46 pm

Ohh ahh.. ok wasn't expecting that. laugh.gif Just off ooot to stick a bone in the voice then off to the ole Hose-pickle.

Appreciate you sharing the info, seems a shame to bin a pump just because of a 20 year old bit of plastic. good.gif
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#19 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:23 pm


Break a leg eh !

I wonder if some o that laminating plastic would work ?

Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan

#20 Taras

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 07:17 pm

Yeah, pump itself (inside) looks eternal! The only part to replace is membrane.

I had the same opinion about laminating sheet, material looks very the same, just do the pertol test!

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