

Reviving A -99 Tdm 850
#41
Posted 27 November 2011 - 12:33 pm

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#42
Posted 27 November 2011 - 01:55 pm

#44
Posted 27 November 2011 - 07:35 pm
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
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#45
Posted 26 December 2011 - 10:58 pm
#46
Posted 26 December 2011 - 11:54 pm

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#47
Posted 27 December 2011 - 03:49 pm
I am trying to fit the new motor in the frame.
First change the botom motor bracket. The TDM900 aluminum bracket on the photo. The TDM 850 steel bracket fits right on. It is a good idea to fit the starter motor to the engine while it is still loose.
First get the bottom engine mount bolt in place. Then jack the motor up till the top/rear engine bolt can be put trough. My frame was a little to narrow for the new engine at the top/rear engine mount. There are two bushings welded to the frame, the engine slides in between them, and then the bolt is passing trough the frame, bushings and the engine. The bushings on eather side of the frame were about 1 mm to tight together. I grinded them down so the engine coulod be fitted.
It loks doable. The right hand upper engine bracket does not fit. There is a casting of the cylinder block that is not used. But not in the same place as on the 850 engine. It is easier to make a new bracket than modify the old one.

The left hand will not fit either. There are no moutning points on the castings.
The aligning of the chain was one of the problems i know of. The 900 engine has 6 gears it is a little wider, and the front sprocket is moved further out.
I shortened the outgoing shaft. In the 900 it is used for speedometer, and i will not be using it.
The chain could be fitted. And it seemed like the chain could be aligned.
The C-C distance for the carbs seems to be the same. This makes it much easier.
The oil fil tube could be fitted.
The oil tank from 900 seemed to fit.
#48
Posted 27 December 2011 - 04:06 pm
Not familiar with 9'er output shaft but is that the thread what holds the front sprock nut on that you have cut off?
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#49
Posted 27 December 2011 - 04:54 pm
No, I seem to recall that there's just a smaller nut that holds on the speedo sensor that goes on the bit that got chopped orf.

2002 TDM900 in glorious yellow, NOW SOLD
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#50
Posted 27 December 2011 - 05:58 pm

#51
Posted 27 December 2011 - 06:01 pm
Thanks for the update and photos


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#52
Posted 27 December 2011 - 06:34 pm
Not familiar with 9'er output shaft but is that the thread what holds the front sprock nut on that you have cut off?
So how does that work cos I dunno

#53
Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:37 pm
Not familiar with 9'er output shaft but is that the thread what holds the front sprock nut on that you have cut off?
I tink the front sprocket retaining threads are behind the cutting disc in the piccy above, so no worries as the bit he's grinding off isn't needed. Lookin' @ that angle grinder makes me tink Anda an i are long lost brudders

be interesting to see how the carbs and electrics/cdi work out. I'm loving this thread.
Edited by wicklamulla, 27 December 2011 - 07:37 pm.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#54
Posted 29 December 2011 - 11:07 pm

be interesting to see how the carbs and electrics/cdi work out. I'm loving this thread.
It will not be the last time the angle grinder is used.

Here is how the front sprocket looks when complete. The piece I grinded away is for the speed sensor. The thread for front sprocket is on the other side of the grinding wheel.
#55
Posted 29 December 2011 - 11:16 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#56
Posted 29 December 2011 - 11:34 pm

#57
Posted 29 December 2011 - 11:55 pm
When the engine was in place, templates for the new engine brackets were made. Great care should be taken when making templates. I was a bit careless, which resulted in more work later.
The casting on the 900 engine is prepeared with a mounting "ear", but it is not drilled or threaded.
For the right side bracket i moved one of the mounting points on the frame. I used the same mounting "ear" on the front of the cylinders that is used in the 900. Sorry for the shitty pictures,
Just pased the point of no return
Inside of the frame
The new location of the mounting. I will later realize that the coolant hose from cylinders to the radiator pases there.
A friend had acces to a water cutting machine and he helped to cut the brackets from 5 mm construction steel. He cut both engine brackets and a 5 mm spacer for the rear wheel.Unfortionaly my templates were not that accurate.
Made a new template
Grinded the bracket to correct shape
Then prepared the engine castingsgrinding the surface of it, drilling a hole, and threading it.
M12 x 1,25 same pitch as on the 850 engine.
Grinded some more on the bracket
I used the bolt from the 850 engine and fastened a bushing. The bracket was grinded until ut fittet with the bushing and the three other holes.
Then weld them together.
You guessed right

Edited by anda3243, 29 December 2011 - 11:58 pm.
#58
Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:08 am
Scarey stuff moving the mounting points, glad it worked out ok.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#59
Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:27 am
The flanges were grinded down somewhat later
The left side bracket
I bought a bolt that fitted. M12 x 1,25
I am in need of a better looking bolt,
The bolt was fittet with a bushing, same as the other side. And the bracket grinded and fitted.
Then welding it to the bushing and fitting the engine mount. The engine is hold in place by the rear mounting points. Note that the bushing takes up some "axial" play. I dont need to bend the bracket to make it fit properly.
Welding the mount to the frame
Adding reinforcement flanges, and welding the bushing properly.
Grinding down the flanges and cleaning both brackets.
Then painting. First ground, then silver.
Also ground paint on the welded mount on the frame. This was also spray painted silver later.
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