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#41 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 07:08 pm



Hmmmm, that's ermmm, a bit odd Snorv. Apart from the fuel filter that fits inside the fuel supply pipe, the Mk1 doesn't have an inline fuel filter as far as I'm aware. Only the mk2a wiv da leccy pump has one.

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#42 Snorvey

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 08:34 am

Morning Studley

There was an inline filter there previously (in between the fuel pump and the carbs), so, as I had the carbs off etc, I decided to put a new one in.

I ordered one of these from Wemoto

http://www.wemoto.co...re/fuel_filter/

It looks like the right filter - except it's 5/16ths (8mm) at both ends. The original filter had a 6mm at the pump side and 8mm at the carb end. To be honest, I think I'll abandon the whole idea and put in a couple of inline filters between the fuel tank and the fuel tap.

It still means I'll have to fit a reducer between the pump and the carbs though eh? Something like this....?

http://www.ebay.co.u...p...el&_sacat=0

It just seems daft (to me at least) to have different fuel pipe sizes......




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#43 Snorvey

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 01:53 pm

Ok, fuel pump diaphragm replaced (well, a replacement cut from acetate), carbs removed, checked over (nothing untoward there), cleaned, needles lowered one notch, reassembled, carb rubbers replaced etc etc etc.....and.....the battery is flat. Ah ferfuxake!

Ok, emergency starter hooked up too (even that's sounding a bit flat) and (bearing in mind the carbs were empty) second push she fires up and idles away, revs smoothly and is just as happy as a clam.

I know that as soon as I put on the plastic it won't start.

I just know it :-)


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#44 TDMick

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 02:47 pm

QUOTE(Snorvey @ Sun 22nd Apr 2012, 01:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Update 2: The OHP material has been soaking for weeks now with no detrimental effects and the bike started second push of the button yesterday. As the tank and the plastic is off, I'm keen to sort out the occasional backfire through the carb and look at the slight smokeyness. I'm guessing it would benefit from a new set of emulsions tubes.

My carbs are off and on the bench and the various retaining screws are soaking in WD40. I've just ordered new inlet rubbers (the old ones look ok, but I guess they must be due for replacement).

My airbox, as previously mentioned, has the age old problem of poorly fitting rubbers - in that they slide of the carbs as soon as you tighten the clips up. I looked at Daps crafty solution, but in the end I just used a bungee to hold the airbox down on to the carbs - which works fine, but I'm looking for a more permanent solution. Has anyone tried individual sports filters? Do they wreck the power delivery? My bike is on standard pipes.

Cheers


I tried turning the rubber tubes upside down and fixing them onto the carbs, leaving the air box floating, then sealing the airbox entries with sealant.

I've not got all the bits I need for this at the moment and in the interest of getting the thing on the road, went back to standard configuration.

Has anyone tired this?


Do the trumprt like affairs sticking into the air box have any effect? I mean if they weren't there would it matter?

I was thinking of making some rubber tubes off the carb tops and into the airbox and just terminating then vertically rather than trying to bend them into the trumpet shape of the standard part.

Edited by TDMick, 04 August 2012 - 02:51 pm.

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#45 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 05:57 pm


Come on Snorv have some faith bod ! smile.gif


Mick, iirc the trumpet thingys have an effect on equalising the intake pressure, you might notice that one is longer than the other. That said, I dunno if modding them would make a significant difference or not.

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#46 Snorvey

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 08:23 pm

Come on Snorv have some faith bod !

I'm doing ok so far Studley - everything I have done has been to plan. I'm looking at Mick's issue tomorrow (i.e. the successful mating of the airbox and carb rubbers. I have Daps post somewhere, so I'd read up on that.

BTW, does the 3vd have a fuel filter anywhere (other than the tap)? I've not installed the one I have between the pump and the carbs (I seem to remember a post expressing doubts about having anything between the mechanical pump and the carbs in case it slowed the flow down)

I guess a couple of inline jobbies downstream from the tap would do the job?

Cheers


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#47 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:20 am


You're doing a grand job ! smile.gif

Yeah, there's a filter located inside the carb coupling where the fuel pipe connects. It's a tiny lickle white mesh filter that pushes into the coupling, if you can't see it in the coupling then check the end of the fuel supply pipe as it can get stuck there.

Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#48 Snorvey

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:38 am

Ok, in for a cuppa tea.

Yeah, there's a filter located inside the carb coupling where the fuel pipe connects. It's a tiny lickle white mesh filter that pushes into the coupling, if you can't see it in the coupling then check the end of the fuel supply pipe as it can get stuck there.

Hmmm. I can't say I noticed anything Studley. Then again, the bike is 20 years old, so it may well have vanished at some point. There really isn't much room for that big inline filter to be fitted between the pump and the carbs, so I reckon I'll pop a couple of smaller in liners in between the tank and the tap. By the way, I had to fit a reducer in the pump to carb fuel line (it was 8mm pipe at the carb and and 6mm pipe at the pump end). Weird eh?

Regarding the airbox rubbers. I've taken them off the airbox and attached them to the carb throats and they're absolutely rock solid tight. When they're attached to the airbox and I try to tighten them up to the carbs, they slip off. So now the rubbers are firmly attached to the carbs I'm going to grease them up and see if they'll slip gently in.

Wish me luck!

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#49 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:51 am


Good Luck Snorv. smile.gif

What seems to happen is when you start tightening the clamp bolt, the clamp turns, lifting the coupling off the carb. I used to use a long screwdriver to lever down on the rear of the clamp, whilst at the same time using my elbow to push down on the airbox and my other hand to tighten the clamp bolt, all done whilst leaning over the airbox from the front of the bike so's the view is upsidedown......simples ! rolleyes.gif

Yeah, wierd pipe innit. Think they put a larger outlet on the mk2 pump so's the ends of the pipe were same diameter.

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#50 Snorvey

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 12:24 pm

Well I seemed to have solved my loose airbox rubbers issues.

First, fit the to the carbs (the wrong way round?)



Then apply lashings of grease to the inlet rubbers' securing lips, line up and push the lower airbox assembly gently, but firmly on



...and Robert's yer muthers bruvva.



[Edit] Swear loudly as fuel appears to dripping out from one of the carb drain holes.

Edited by Snorvey, 05 August 2012 - 12:30 pm.

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#51 Snorvey

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 12:50 pm

Okay, in the last picture you can see the R/H drain hole and the screw/bolt that can be opened up to drain the carb. It's leaking from there. I've tightened the screw fully and it's still dripping. I've now removed the screw and it appears undamaged. Is there a gasket or something that I'm missing? Haynes doesn't show anything!

BTW, it's running great (or it was)

[Edit] Well I think that's encouraging - I swapped the drain screws over and the drip has switched to the other side. A new drain screw is required I guess. Wemoto don't have one listed....any ideas oh good folk of Carpe :-)

Cheers


Snorvey

Edited by Snorvey, 05 August 2012 - 01:09 pm.

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#52 TDMick

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:51 pm

QUOTE(Snorvey @ Sun 5th Aug 2012, 01:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well I seemed to have solved my loose airbox rubbers issues.

First, fit the to the carbs (the wrong way round?)



Then apply lashings of grease to the inlet rubbers' securing lips, line up and push the lower airbox assembly gently, but firmly on



...and Robert's yer muthers bruvva.



[Edit] Swear loudly as fuel appears to dripping out from one of the carb drain holes.



They are the right way round.
I was wondering about turning them upside down and removing the collars with a stanley knife, then securing them with sealant.

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#53 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 02:52 pm

QUOTE(Snorvey @ Sun 5th Aug 2012, 01:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Okay, in the last picture you can see the R/H drain hole and the screw/bolt that can be opened up to drain the carb. It's leaking from there. I've tightened the screw fully and it's still dripping. I've now removed the screw and it appears undamaged. Is there a gasket or something that I'm missing? Haynes doesn't show anything!

BTW, it's running great (or it was)

[Edit] Well I think that's encouraging - I swapped the drain screws over and the drip has switched to the other side. A new drain screw is required I guess. Wemoto don't have one listed....any ideas oh good folk of Carpe :-)

Cheers
Snorvey


AJ Sutton sell them but it'll cost you around £10 for one ! blink.gif

http://www.yamahasco...e...65555&uid=0

Yambits might sell them, I'll have a looksee. EDIT: Nope !

Just looked in my box of useless TDM carby bits and I'm all out of drain plugs.

Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#54 Snorvey

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 03:17 pm

Thanks for looking Studley.

I feel significant progress has been made today, despite the drain screw issue.

I'll ask if anyone might have one over in the classifieds - failing that I'll bit the bullet.

Cheers!
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#55 Snorvey

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:22 pm

good afternoon everybody

it's been a while since I last tinkered with the old tdm.....just too busy I guess! a big thanks to all that have helped me so far... I'm looking for your help again.

Todays problem :-)......the battery is relatively new and spends a good amount of time on an optimiser, but today the tdm woulda barely turn over. I then attached a fully charged jump start pack and still it barely turns over.

Starter motor? New battery? The fuel has been off (i did think for a minute that it was some sort of hydraulic lock or something from the fuel pump modification that I did recently)

many thanks in advance.

snorvey
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#56 tdm850rider

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:47 pm

good afternoon everybody

it's been a while since I last tinkered with the old tdm.....just too busy I guess! a big thanks to all that have helped me so far... I'm looking for your help again.

Todays problem :-)......the battery is relatively new and spends a good amount of time on an optimiser, but today the tdm woulda barely turn over. I then attached a fully charged jump start pack and still it barely turns over.

Starter motor? New battery? The fuel has been off (i did think for a minute that it was some sort of hydraulic lock or something from the fuel pump modification that I did recently)

many thanks in advance.

snorvey


May be the problem I had when I ran out of fuel a while back... vapor-lock I think.
Take the seat off and tap the fuel-pump with a spanner while you crank. Don't put dents in it but tap it firmly and quickly.

Let me know if that does it.
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#57 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 04:43 pm

You could have a smell of the oil, see if it's got fuel in there.

As Thomas suggests though, might be a vapour lock and there's no fuel getting to the carbs.

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#58 dapleb

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:52 pm

My Snorv pump is still going strong Snorv, could be the Snorv mod but doubt it. Did you store tap on or tap off?
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#59 Snorvey

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 06:09 pm

Not getting much joy here chaps. I think the battery is goosed though - only a tad over 11 volts. The powerpack is much healthier@ 13.5 volts. Even with both, the motor is barely turning over.

Too cauld in the shed now though, I've lost feeling in my toes! I'll leave both on charge overnight and look again tomorrow.

Cheers.

Tap off dap. I had it running 3 months ago and that battery is only a couple of years old.

I'm going to give it a real jolt tomorrow and jump it from the car.
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#60 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 08:34 pm

Make sure car engine is not running


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