
Battery
#1
Posted 15 February 2007 - 12:54 pm
Cheers for any help
#2
Posted 15 February 2007 - 01:42 pm
Remove the back wheel
Remove the suspension strut
Remove the battery.
Some suggest you can remove the battery with the strut in place.
#3
Posted 15 February 2007 - 03:05 pm
Remove rear master cyl bolts so m/cyl can be moved out of the way.
Remove rear brake hose guide from swingarm
Remove battery box retaining bolts (hex key)
Detach battery leads from solenoid.
Lift twist wiggle swear and remove box incl battery from right rear side of bike.
Replacement is as above, in reverse, except swearing occurs when trying to get battery box retaining bolts back in place..
Stu
#4
Posted 15 February 2007 - 07:00 pm
Cheers for any help
Go to Halfords and buy a Haynes manual or down load some it from here i tink ?? http://jbx9.free.fr/TDM/index.php
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#5
Posted 15 February 2007 - 11:47 pm
Cheers for any help
First.... Welcome to Carpe.
I have a Mk1 (1991-1995) and this is how I get to the battery... and yes it is a pain.
- Remove the fairing (top and both sides). Not all the bolts are the same length so its a good idea to keep track.
- Unbolt the tank, the rear bolt (and washer) then the left and right side bolts. (keep track).
- You can now lift the tank up at the back to remove the battery.
- NOTE: Unless you like doing all this every time you need to charge the battery install 'remote' wiring from a quality charger on the terminals.
You can do this alone but a buddy to hand you tools is always nice.
This is actually easier than removing the rear wheel and its a good time to inspect under there.
You may want to install a K&N air filter, high quality and won't need to be serviced for ages.
Like I said.... welcome to Carpe.

Always tell the truth, it will gratify some of the people and astonish the rest. (Mark Twain)
£
Stebel Nautilus air-horn, Corbin seat, MRA Touring screen, single Delkevic silencer.
"I see by your outfit that you are a spaceman"(MkI (3VD) TDM Review)
Hints for using Carpe-TDM. (photo's, links, etc).
#6
Posted 16 February 2007 - 11:13 am
#7
Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:23 pm
I have a Mk1 (1991-1995) and this is how I get to the battery... and yes it is a pain.
- Remove the fairing (top and both sides). Not all the bolts are the same length so its a good idea to keep track.
- Unbolt the tank, the rear bolt (and washer) then the left and right side bolts. (keep track).
- You can now lift the tank up at the back to remove the battery.
- NOTE: Unless you like doing all this every time you need to charge the battery install 'remote' wiring from a quality charger on the terminals.
You can do this alone but a buddy to hand you tools is always nice.
This is actually easier than removing the rear wheel and its a good time to inspect under there.
You may want to install a K&N air filter, high quality and won't need to be serviced for ages.
Like I said.... welcome to Carpe.
I dug deep for this one... a forum with all the answers, my god.
I came out to the bike on saturday and to my total dismay found the bike dead.. the culprit was the heated grips..
Not going into detail here, I realized the massive problem of getting to the battery..
Ok i have my answer here, of which i`m grateful, and i do have a new battery to fit but on the above you mentioned "remote" wiring.. are you saying that I can fit an earth and live lead connector away from the battery. and therefore enabling me to charge the battery from there.
Soz if i haven`t understood you and this is not the case.
If thats true is that safe?.. I`m only thinking that the wiring loom is still part of the circuit.

P.S ... I was put off from trying a third time to bump start her.. I was put off by a lad who seemed to "know" .. if you know what I mean. Thought it best myself to take the advice.. I wasn`t sure enough.
Was I ok having a go??
Edited by Kpnuts, 26 March 2007 - 09:32 pm.
#8
Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:36 pm

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#9
Posted 27 March 2007 - 07:54 am
Vario touring screen, Stainless Steel Rad Guard,
Still in the shed:- BMW Hand Guards, Heated Grips, Aux Lamps.
#10
Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:08 am
Remove the back wheel
Remove the suspension strut
Remove the battery.
Some suggest you can remove the battery with the strut in place.
taking the swingarm out was the way I did my MK2 only did it once and lost my temper many times with it trying to "thread" it past the shock before deciding to just unbolt the swinger- has to be THE most stupid place to site the battery but hey they're consistent look at where the main fuses and starter relay are

CB125 SUPERDREAM, DR125, MZ125ETZ, CD200BENLY, CB250SUPERDREAM x 2, VT250F, XT350,SRX400,CX500EC,XT600,GPX600C1,TDM850MK2,GS850,TDM850MK1,XJ900F,SV1000S, SV1000N, TDM850MK1 (nr2), TDM850 MK1 (nr3),TDM850 MK1 (quatre)
#11
Posted 27 March 2007 - 04:59 pm
cheers... sons on way home and i`ll see if he`s got that or similar connector in his cases. good idea though.
just come out of garage really annoyed , i cant believe this is what it takes to sort battery. if i`d known prior to spring i would have sorted whilst stored.
[attachment=331:tdm_charging.jpg]
Well... I studied and studied and then wondered if I could take off the `live` wire coming out from the battery cover from the block (notice I don`t get technical here ...) on the right side and connect the positive from the charger. Confident by now it would work just as the `remote` wiring idea. I fastened the earth to the body earthing point. I turned on the charger and felt the wire for heat and searched around hoping I hadn`t made a grave error. I left it half an hour then tried it... it was just short of starting it.
I`ve put my LED light unit on whilst waiting around and hope to start her up after a bit of supper.
I haven`t got my new battery on but I`m going to drop the bike off on friday morn to the local bike man... he can do it.. I`m too stressed... need beer.
Edited by Kpnuts, 28 March 2007 - 07:48 pm.
#12
Posted 28 March 2007 - 10:18 pm

PINKcable ties

methinks Wicky is hankering for a 9ner

P.S. did you get your tools out of a lucky bag

Edited by Hartside Man, 28 March 2007 - 10:19 pm.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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#13
Posted 29 March 2007 - 07:05 am
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
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