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reduce the buffeting from screens, guinea-pigs needed.


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#1 Geordie Guy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 06:27 pm

After reading a few of the postings on screens, and a few have said that it dosen't matter what screen they use,
the buffeting is still there. ranting.gif

I had the same problem having just bought a Skidmarx touring screen the difference was poor.

I sat down last night on the drawing board, and drew some flow graphs and wind dynamics. Doddles etc...... blink.gif

Using what knowledge I have of aero-dynamics.

I realised that the main problem is the "eddys" from the top of any screen, are caused by the negative pressure from behind the screen.

So this morning at 6 oclock, I took the screen off and stuck some small plastic self adhesive spacers ( left over from a DIY project) on the rim between the fixing holes.

When you refix the screen it is held off the fairing by 2-3mm, this gives a gap for the air to get in behind the screen and hence reduces the -ve pressure and therefore the buffeting.

The difference is amazing yahoo.gif and from the front of the bike you can't tell.

But what I need is for a few more to try it and to see if they agree.

There must a air gap that give the best results ??????

Cheers, Ivan

Edited by Geordie Guy, 12 April 2007 - 06:30 pm.

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#2 E-njoy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:04 pm

QUOTE(Geordie Guy @ Thu 12th Apr 2007, 08:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
There must a air gap that give the best results ??????
Cheers, Ivan


Depends a bit. Angle of the screen, width, height, your length. Less air difference will cause more smoothing since the difference is smaller. But it also will rise the buffeting layer a bit, which might be noisier if your screen was low to start with, or might just be that centimeter you needed if you had a very tall screen. You got pics?
Emile
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#3 Geordie Guy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:24 pm

The screen height does not alter.

The whole screen sits forward, just enough to let the air past the screws,

Will post some pictures, when I master the up-loading !!

Cheers, Ivan
I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!     "Adventure before Dementia"  

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#4 AJ_Blizzard

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:53 pm

QUOTE(Geordie Guy @ Thu 12th Apr 2007, 08:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
After reading a few of the postings on screens, and a few have said that it dosen't matter what screen they use,
the buffeting is still there. ranting.gif

I had the same problem having just bought a Skidmarx touring screen the difference was poor.

I sat down last night on the drawing board, and drew some flow graphs and wind dynamics. Doddles etc...... blink.gif

Using what knowledge I have of aero-dynamics.

I realised that the main problem is the "eddys" from the top of any screen, are caused by the negative pressure from behind the screen.

So this morning at 6 oclock, I took the screen off and stuck some small plastic self adhesive spacers ( left over from a DIY project) on the rim between the fixing holes.

When you refix the screen it is held off the fairing by 2-3mm, this gives a gap for the air to get in behind the screen and hence reduces the -ve pressure and therefore the buffeting.

The difference is amazing yahoo.gif and from the front of the bike you can't tell.

But what I need is for a few more to try it and to see if they agree.

There must a air gap that give the best results ??????

Cheers, Ivan



Hm...
This solution sounds very interesting. Let's see some photos, ok?

Use www.photobucket.com. It's easy; just register and upload from your c'puter. And then load photos into your postings here.
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#5 Stuart-900

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:59 pm

Sounds like a... err well... sound theory to me. In the same way that many fairings have low vent holes. I look forward to the pictures.

And with the subsequent reduction in down force, it would be easier to do wheelies too good.gif
In the world of I.T. anything is possible (but only according to those that don't understand the problem)
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#6 Geordie Guy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:33 pm

QUOTE(Stuart-900 @ Thu 12th Apr 2007, 08:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sounds like a... err well... sound theory to me. In the same way that many fairings have low vent holes. I look forward to the pictures.

And with the subsequent reduction in down force, it would be easier to do wheelies too good.gif



Hope these come out all right, you just need something behind to lift the screen off the fairing.

Try it and see!!!!!!!!





Edited by Geordie Guy, 12 April 2007 - 08:39 pm.

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#7 Geordie Guy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:46 pm

try again!!!!





Bloody computers!!!!!


I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!     "Adventure before Dementia"  

Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
 
 

#8 Landy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:51 pm

Looks worth a go and its easily reversable if it does not work.
TS50ER, Suzuki GT125, Cagiva 125, Suzuki GT250 20 year gap. Honda CBF600. Discovered the joy of TDM, 1974 GT250 has joined the stable
Vario touring screen, Stainless Steel Rad Guard, Fender Extender (it came off), Givi V46 Topbox (inc brake light), SW-Motech Engine Bars, Wingrack, LED Tail Light
Still in the shed:- BMW Hand Guards, Heated Grips, Aux Lamps.

#9 E-njoy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 09:07 pm

QUOTE(Landy @ Thu 12th Apr 2007, 10:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks worth a go and its easily reversable if it does not work.


Yep, true. I got those little buggers lying around, use them for doors. At least it makes it easier for water and dead flies to get out of that space...

Maybe it will do wonders on fuel economy as well, steering will be much lighter too rolleyes.gif although that slot looks veerrrry tiny.

Edited by E-njoy, 12 April 2007 - 09:08 pm.

Emile
www.piloot.com
'80 Honda CB400T Hawk, '92 Yamaha XJ600S Diversion, '90 Honda PC800 Pacific Coast, '92 Honda ST1100ABSTCS Pan European, '00 BMW R1150GS ABS, '04 Yamaha XP500i T-max, '01 Triumph Sprint ST 955i, '06 Yamaha TDM900A GT, '02 Honda ST1300A Pan European


#10 Geordie Guy

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 09:14 pm

I put 6 of them around, so its not just a gap at the bottom. The gap was even alround.

Tonight, I have doubled up the bottom two, so the gap is a bit bigger, see what the difference is like tomorrow.

Ivan
I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!     "Adventure before Dementia"  

Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
 
 

#11 Sparra

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 11:40 pm

Does this mean that in the rain (the thing we get occasionally and you get ALL the TIME) will be forced in the gap as well? Meaning water streaming up the inside of the screen. This may not have been tested as yet. It would be an excellent solution if it works.
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#12 Pict

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:09 am

QUOTE(Sparra @ Fri 13th Apr 2007, 12:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Does this mean that in the rain (the thing we get occasionally and you get ALL the TIME) will be forced in the gap as well? Meaning water streaming up the inside of the screen. This may not have been tested as yet. It would be an excellent solution if it works.

Nice suggestion re. the adaptors. Ivan. wifgeni.gif As a further thought, would it be worth using rubber grommets or O-rings, or some sort of rubbery strip between the screw positions, to preserve the flexibility of the rubber nut attachment system? Or are they already soft components you're using? I seem to recall DIY stores sell little stickon silicon "spots" as feet for ornaments etc. Might that need longer screen screws though? Is that something you already need to think about?
The mod. is like one excellent feature on my (X-lite) helmet which pops the visor forward about 3mm (see here and here). resulting in a nice breeze which doesn't bring rain in. OK, the profile is different for a w/screen, but the principle is there. The TDM screen isn't for me to look through in practical terms, and does anybody worry if the inside of the screen gets wet (as it does anyway)?

Edited by Pict, 13 April 2007 - 06:54 am.

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

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Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#13 Pict

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:21 am

QUOTE(Geordie Guy @ Thu 12th Apr 2007, 07:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I realised that the main problem is the "eddys" from the top of any screen, are caused by the negative pressure from behind the screen.

There must a air gap that give the best results ??????

Filling the behind-screen space e.g. with a tanktop bag (even changing body/arm position) can have an effect.
Agree about getting the gap right.

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to

 

Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#14 Geordie Guy

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:07 am

The spaces are soft, sort of silicone. so they have some give in them. You dont need extra long screws as they are long enough.

I thought of using washer / gromets, but I had these to hand. Probably a more professional job, if they were.

I have came in this morning, and the bigger air gap, does make even more of a difference.
At 30 / 40mph , if you put your hand to the top of the screen you can feel where the air is dead and where the slip stream is.
It is deffinately higher and smoother.

At 60mph before I was getting buffeting below my chin, now its roughly across the eyes, the noise has reduced dramaticaly.
There is no difference between my head up or forward.

I recon a 3mm air gap around the edge is equivilent to a 47mm dia hole.

The first picture was taken after I doubled the bottom two spacers.

Cheers, Ivan
I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!     "Adventure before Dementia"  

Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
 
 

#15 Pict

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 08:43 am

QUOTE(Geordie Guy @ Fri 13th Apr 2007, 07:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The spaces are soft, sort of silicone. so they have some give in them.
I thought of using washer / gromets, but I had these to hand. Probably a more professional job, if they were.

Sounds good. I'm no engineer, but maybe putting the spacers between (rather than at) the screw positions is better - adds more support points?

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to

 

Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#16 2wheeler

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 09:01 am

Very interesting. When I used to fly gliders, some of them had a row of holes drilled along the trailing edge of the wings to reduce vortices. And the vertical winglets on the end of the wing (also present on some Boeing 747s) are meant to do the same thing at the end of the wing.

Anyone have access to a wind tunnel? This would be a good student project for an Aeronatics student...

#17 Landy

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 09:22 am

QUOTE(Pict @ Fri 13th Apr 2007, 09:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sounds good. I'm no engineer, but maybe putting the spacers between (rather than at) the screw positions is better - adds more support points?

If you tighten the screws down with the supports between the fixings you stand a good chance of cracking the plastic, as you will be stressing the area between the holes. Also this would reduce the area for the air to flow through.

Edited by Landy, 13 April 2007 - 09:23 am.

TS50ER, Suzuki GT125, Cagiva 125, Suzuki GT250 20 year gap. Honda CBF600. Discovered the joy of TDM, 1974 GT250 has joined the stable
Vario touring screen, Stainless Steel Rad Guard, Fender Extender (it came off), Givi V46 Topbox (inc brake light), SW-Motech Engine Bars, Wingrack, LED Tail Light
Still in the shed:- BMW Hand Guards, Heated Grips, Aux Lamps.

#18 Pict

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 10:10 am

QUOTE(Landy @ Fri 13th Apr 2007, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you tighten the screws down with the supports between the fixings you stand a good chance of cracking the plastic, as you will be stressing the area between the holes. Also this would reduce the area for the air to flow through.

I guess you're right - 'twas just a thought.

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to

 

Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#19 Stuart-900

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 10:20 am

I've never had to remove my screen, so please forgive the potentially daft question! From the above pictures, it looks like the bottom edge of the screen has a tongue on it, does this normally slot into a groove in the fairing to provide extra strength\support?

Just wondering, as if the screen is raised to reduce turbulence, then all the wind forces will have to be dealt with by just the mounting screws, rather than the entire circumference of the screen-fairing join.
In the world of I.T. anything is possible (but only according to those that don't understand the problem)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2007 900 with Scottoiler, Starcom communications system, Givi engine bars, Stebel Magnum horn, ATC-2k digital video camera, Fender Extender, Vario winglet, seat, wheels, noisy engine type thing...
VFR 800 VTEC with Starcom communications system, ATC-2k digital video camera, seat, wheels, slightly different noisy engine type thing...

http://www.theultimatehigh.co.uk/

#20 Pict

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 10:42 am

QUOTE(Stuart-900 @ Fri 13th Apr 2007, 11:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've never had to remove my screen, so please forgive the potentially daft question! From the above pictures, it looks like the bottom edge of the screen has a tongue on it, does this normally slot into a groove in the fairing to provide extra strength\support?

Just wondering, as if the screen is raised to reduce turbulence, then all the wind forces will have to be dealt with by just the mounting screws, rather than the entire circumference of the screen-fairing join.

Screen just beds flat - the "tongue" is just part of an essentially 2D outline. So your concern about strength of attachment is the same as mine, when I was talking about position of spacers and use of longer screws (which just go into brass-cored rubber cylinders that expand into fairing holes)

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to

 

Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.



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