Wotadifference!
Started by
Nanook
, May 11 2006 06:30 pm
16 replies to this topic
#1
Nanook
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 06:30 pm
Had a set of HEL braided brake lines fitted today - wot a difference! Should have done it ages ago (and the brake lines).
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#2
darcym
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:35 pm
Nanook -
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
1992 TDM 850, RED
Corbin seat, Kerker pipes, Givi top case.
DMPHOTOSD.com
Corbin seat, Kerker pipes, Givi top case.
DMPHOTOSD.com
#3
stevepsd
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- TDM model: 1992
Posted 12 May 2006 - 01:30 am
QUOTE(Nanook @ Thu 11th May 2006, 11:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Had a set of HEL braided brake lines fitted today - wot a difference! Should have done it ages ago (and the brake lines).
I just recently installed a Galfer stainless rear brake line on my '92. What a difference it made! Much better feel and control. A great upgrade for only $50.
Darcym....it's a simple job, although a bit messy, and you don't want the brake fluid getting on anything painted - as it's a pretty good paint remover. Simply remove and replace the old lines, use new copper crush wahers (provided) on the banjo bolts and then bleed the system. Make sure you use new brake fluid. Took me about 30 minutes for the rear line.
I am going to replace the front lines as well, but I don't care for the dual lines coming off the master cylinder, direct to the calipers that all the aftermarket guys makes. No real reason why, but Ijust prefer the stock 3 hose setup & routing. I called Galfer USA (they are in Ventura, CA) and they will make a custom stainles steel set for not much more than the 'sport' 2 line setup - probably around $130 or so.
-steve
'92 TDM850 Corbin Seat, Stainless Laser Pro-Stock Exhaust, K&N, Ceramic Coated downpipes, BMW F650
Handguards, MRA TouringScreen Windshield, dual-FIAMM's, Euro city light, YZF-R6 electric fuel
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'87 XR600R To many mods to list, but it's street legal (sort-of)!
'82 XJ550 Seca
Handguards, MRA TouringScreen Windshield, dual-FIAMM's, Euro city light, YZF-R6 electric fuel
pump & polished rims!
'87 XR600R To many mods to list, but it's street legal (sort-of)!
'82 XJ550 Seca
#4
Hartside Man
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 02:31 am
QUOTE(darcym @ Thu 11th May 2006, 11:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nanook -
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
I have also fitted goodridge stainless lines and yes i can confirm the wow what a difference feeling
the goodridge ones for the 900 at least are the origonal setup with a single to the master and the t piece so the two calipers
it took me about 1 hour to fit the lines front and rear , then about 1/2 hour to bleed them out properly.
I can concur it can get messy , well on the floor anyway , i managed to keep all spills into a few old plastic containers , then knocked one over and spilled the lot on the floor :doh:
Edited by amarko5, 12 May 2006 - 02:35 am.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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#5
Godzillamonster
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 04:05 am
Have had briaded lines on my bike since I bought it - wouldn't have it any other way.
when I went for compliance testing on importing the bike to New Zealand they wanted me to fit old rubber hoses as the braided lines did not have a standards stamp on them - they were purchased before the standard was created!
What a load of shite - took me a while to cut though that red tape.
when I went for compliance testing on importing the bike to New Zealand they wanted me to fit old rubber hoses as the braided lines did not have a standards stamp on them - they were purchased before the standard was created!
What a load of shite - took me a while to cut though that red tape.
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#6
dapleb
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 08:28 am
I can see why they wanted you to change them for the compliance check....there is no way of telling the condition of hose covered in braid until you have some large failure.
Has anyone ever tried replacing rubber with NEW rubber? That also creates a dramatic difference in 'feel', shame Yamaha charge so much for stuff.
Boop
dapleb
Has anyone ever tried replacing rubber with NEW rubber? That also creates a dramatic difference in 'feel', shame Yamaha charge so much for stuff.
Boop
dapleb
QUOTE(Godzillamonster @ Fri 12th May 2006, 04:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Have had briaded lines on my bike since I bought it - wouldn't have it any other way.
when I went for compliance testing on importing the bike to New Zealand they wanted me to fit old rubber hoses as the braided lines did not have a standards stamp on them - they were purchased before the standard was created!
What a load of shite - took me a while to cut though that red tape.
when I went for compliance testing on importing the bike to New Zealand they wanted me to fit old rubber hoses as the braided lines did not have a standards stamp on them - they were purchased before the standard was created!
What a load of shite - took me a while to cut though that red tape.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#7
Nanook
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 11:42 am
QUOTE(darcym @ Thu 11th May 2006, 10:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nanook -
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
did you do it yourself of have it done? Was it a difficult job? Want to do that to mine as well.
dm
NAh - got a good mechanic in Inverness to fit them - cost £25.00.
Beware the whitevanman!
#8
nitram
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 11:59 am
Changing brake lines is easy peasy, making sure you do it without getting fluid everywhere is vital though.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes. Do this a couple of times till there are not too many bubbles, then do the other side. Once you have done both sides, bleed each caliper normally. If you've never done it then the easiest way is to place a piece of pipe on the bleed nipple, about 12"-18" long is good. Then get an old milk bottle (clean one, you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid). Now, put about an inch of brake fluid in the milk bottle and put the pipe into the bottle so it's in the fluid. Now, open up the bleed nipple slightly and pull in the brake lever. keep the brake lever in and then do up the nipple. Keep doing this process till no more air bubbles are seen in the pipe. Then do the other side.
I reckon it should take no longer than 30 minutes. 45 minutes if changing the calipers as well.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes. Do this a couple of times till there are not too many bubbles, then do the other side. Once you have done both sides, bleed each caliper normally. If you've never done it then the easiest way is to place a piece of pipe on the bleed nipple, about 12"-18" long is good. Then get an old milk bottle (clean one, you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid). Now, put about an inch of brake fluid in the milk bottle and put the pipe into the bottle so it's in the fluid. Now, open up the bleed nipple slightly and pull in the brake lever. keep the brake lever in and then do up the nipple. Keep doing this process till no more air bubbles are seen in the pipe. Then do the other side.
I reckon it should take no longer than 30 minutes. 45 minutes if changing the calipers as well.
#9
Minty Hippo
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 01:55 pm
QUOTE(nitram @ Fri 12th May 2006, 10:44 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Changing brake lines is easy peasy, making sure you do it without getting fluid everywhere is vital though.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes. Do this a couple of times till there are not too many bubbles, then do the other side. Once you have done both sides, bleed each caliper normally. If you've never done it then the easiest way is to place a piece of pipe on the bleed nipple, about 12"-18" long is good. Then get an old milk bottle (clean one, you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid). Now, put about an inch of brake fluid in the milk bottle and put the pipe into the bottle so it's in the fluid. Now, open up the bleed nipple slightly and pull in the brake lever. keep the brake lever in and then do up the nipple. Keep doing this process till no more air bubbles are seen in the pipe. Then do the other side.
I reckon it should take no longer than 30 minutes. 45 minutes if changing the calipers as well.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes. Do this a couple of times till there are not too many bubbles, then do the other side. Once you have done both sides, bleed each caliper normally. If you've never done it then the easiest way is to place a piece of pipe on the bleed nipple, about 12"-18" long is good. Then get an old milk bottle (clean one, you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid). Now, put about an inch of brake fluid in the milk bottle and put the pipe into the bottle so it's in the fluid. Now, open up the bleed nipple slightly and pull in the brake lever. keep the brake lever in and then do up the nipple. Keep doing this process till no more air bubbles are seen in the pipe. Then do the other side.
I reckon it should take no longer than 30 minutes. 45 minutes if changing the calipers as well.
If you have the money and no time, get yourself a Mityvac (I bet they are cheaper in the US!!!) does the job in a fraction of the time & fuss.
#10
ROB1
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 07:43 pm
QUOTE(Minty Hippo @ Fri 12th May 2006, 04:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have the money and no time, get yourself a Mityvac (I bet they are cheaper in the US!!!) does the job in a fraction of the time & fuss.
changed mine(f&r) this winter.had them custom made at a local supplier £20 a line.double line at the front.do you know where the front original brake pipes the metal ones that link the calippers aro well i took it all off cut the metal pipes off with a hacksaw drilled right through them so th new braided lines would go through them.they act now as stays for the line to keep it in place
#11
SteveGlover
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 10:44 pm
QUOTE(Minty Hippo @ Fri 12th May 2006, 02:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have the money and no time, get yourself a Mityvac (I bet they are cheaper in the US!!!) does the job in a fraction of the time & fuss.
Agreed, well worth it. But if you have no money, or you're stuck in the middle of nowhere, then you can use a length of clean clear plastic tube and just suck on it till you see brake fluid coming out of the bleed nipple. Then do the final bleeding normally. Just don't get a mouthful of brake fluid.
#12
Stink-Foot
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:22 pm
QUOTE(nitram @ Fri 12th May 2006, 01:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Changing brake lines is easy peasy, making sure you do it without getting fluid everywhere is vital though.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes.
The most difficult part when putting on braided hoses is the bleeding of them. I have found that it's easier to reverse bleed them. Basically take off the old hoses, put the new ones on. Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5). The place a pipe on one of the calipers bleed nipples, then put a syringe on the pipe, open up the bleed nipple and pull the syringe plunger out sucking the brake fluid down the pipes.
The syringe can also be used the other way around. If it's big enough You can just fill it with brake fluid and push the fluid up from the caliper through the hose to the reservoir. I didn't have a syringe available when I fitted my bluespots so I connected the bleed nipples on the bluespot and a caliper on my car (I had just changed the brake fluid in it). I just pumped the brakes on the car until the fluid got up to the reservoir, then did the same on the other side (I have a separate hose from each caliper to the reservoir). Filled the reservoir up and that's it, a 15 minute job max and no air left in the brake system.
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#13
dandywarhol
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Posted 14 May 2006 - 11:26 am
QUOTE(Stink-Foot @ Sat 13th May 2006, 08:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The syringe can also be used the other way around. If it's big enough You can just fill it with brake fluid and push the fluid up from the caliper through the hose to the reservoir. I didn't have a syringe available when I fitted my bluespots so I connected the bleed nipples on the bluespot and a caliper on my car (I had just changed the brake fluid in it). I just pumped the brakes on the car until the fluid got up to the reservoir, then did the same on the other side (I have a separate hose from each caliper to the reservoir). Filled the reservoir up and that's it, a 15 minute job max and no air left in the brake system.
You should write a book of tips stinky...........these are great
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#14
stu
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Posted 15 May 2006 - 10:05 am
QUOTE(dandywarhol @ Sun 14th May 2006, 12:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You should write a book of tips stinky...........these are great
Yeah - to bleed your brakes first gather together the equipment - clean fluid, clear plastic tubing and a car.
Stu
#15
Stink-Foot
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Posted 15 May 2006 - 01:20 pm
QUOTE(stu @ Mon 15th May 2006, 11:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yeah - to bleed your brakes first gather together the equipment - clean fluid, clear plastic tubing and a car.
I'm pretty sure You need clean fluid anyway to bleed the brakes. A car isn't strictly necessary, the rear wheel brake should work just as well. It would take a longer piece of plastic tube though.
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#16
Tizermac
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Posted 25 May 2006 - 08:20 am
Hi Been toying with the idea of braided hoses, think iom going to go for it. Are HEL the set to go for or is there any other suggestions.
Cheers
Cheers
#17
slimjim
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Posted 25 May 2006 - 12:54 pm
Ive just ordered mine this morning HEL ones aswell £86 for the front and rear .£56 for front only. I dont use rear brake much but went for the bling thing . I also ordered a K&N filter as will do it at same time as air mod . I thought the brakes where pretty good to start off with being off the R1 so cant wait once there fitted .
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