Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Race Tech Gold Valve Installation on a mkI


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 dapleb

dapleb

    Monkey Boy

  • Root Admin(A)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,301 posts
  • Location:The home of morris dancin
  • TDM model: 1990

Posted 18 April 2006 - 10:11 pm

http://www.carpe-tdm...owtopic=381&hl=

QUOTE(Stink-Foot @ Tue 18th Apr 2006, 10:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well I finally got all the Race Tech stuff necessary for a front fork revalving and spent an afternoon rebuilding the forks. My '95 3VD has now 0.85 kg/mm linear front springs and Gold Valves shimmed according to RT's recommendations. The instructions were pretty general and I doubt they've field tested a rare beast like the TDM very thoroughly. After pulling the damper assembly apart installing the gold valves was pretty straightforward.
I took photos along the way. I'm sorry they are huge but I don't know how to compress them without loosing too much of the quality.

Gold Valves and shims This is just about all there was in the Gold Valve package (instructions and stickers aren't shown). The paper is a printed copy of the Digital Valving Search results.

Here are the the Gold Valves. Notice the hole you have to drill through them. Mine was 1.3mm.

After removing the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks the damper assembly should come out. The compression valve is at the bottom of the damper assembly but I removed the rebound piston (together with the damper rod) too to clean everything thoroughly. The compression piston and damper rod sleeve were fastened with Loctite to the damper tube so I had to use heat to get them off.

Here's the original compression piston. There are no bending shims, just the valve and a thick shim that acts as a oneway valve. The damping is created only by the original valve.

The Gold Valve uses a shim stack to control the damping. The Gold Valve sits on top of the shim stack, then there's a larger shim held down by a spring that acts as a oneway valve. Here's the complete compression piston with Gold Valves, and an another picture.

I used 15W fork oil just as RT recommended. The first impressions of the suspension were mixed. It was absolutely brilliant when hitting large bumps, I could easily ride over a speed bump without slowing down at all, the front just glides over them with no shocks at the bars whatsoever. But it was a lot harsher than original when going over small holes or cracks in the road. Maybe I wasn't pushing it hard enough, I've only ridden a few hundread km's this spring and the engine is still being broken in after a rebuild. But still it seems too stiff and I don't feel confident at all when hitting rough tarmac while leaned over. I think it's mostly becouse of too much rebound damping, the Gold Valves don't affect the rebound but the 15W oil does. Even with the external adjusters all the way out it seems too stiff.
Adjusting the damn things is a pain, You have to pull the forks completely apart just to adjust them. I think I'll try the easy way first and change to 10W oil. It should soften the rebound damping and hopefully compression too.

"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#2 Stink-Foot

Stink-Foot

    Carpe fan

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 152 posts
  • Location:Helsinki, Finland
  • TDM model: 1995

Posted 04 May 2006 - 06:29 pm

I'm currently pretty happy with my setup: 10W fork oil, oil level at 160mm (instead of 150mm) and sag set at 40mm. If I ever have to take the forks apart again I'll propably go for a softer compression setting (c 32).

A few things in the instructions can be a bit misleading:

- According to them the threads above the nut holding the old assembly together should be filed off flat. There's no need to do this becouse the locking nut is re-useable and will come off without damage.

- According to the instructions the new valve stack should be built on top of the original base plate (thick washer). There are also a few thick washers in the kit that could be used as a base plate. On these forks the base plate is built in to the shaft. If You add an other base plate like I did in this picture the nut wont go far enough on the threads.

- This isn't mentioned in the instructions but You should deburr the original holes in the bottom of the damper cartridge. The holes were really sharp on the inside and could have teared the O-ring on the compression valve when putting it back together.
Beat Your dick like it owes You money.

#3 Bjørge

Bjørge

    has been here 4ever

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,854 posts
  • Location:Asker, Norway
  • TDM model: no more

Posted 13 May 2007 - 10:58 pm

Thanks, Stink-foot !

I installed the Gold Valves yesterday, and thanks to your guide I could do the work with confidence. Based on your tips I chose a setup that was slightly softer than RaceTech recommendations (c33+10W <> c34+15W). To me this seems fine, as I am maybe more into comfort than sporty capabilities. The bike is equipped with stiffer springs, but now it feels really soft.

Next move will be fitting a new rear shock, as the old one now totally ruins the overall experience.

Regards,
Bjørge
Bjørge

#4 MOTOPUNTO

MOTOPUNTO

    arrived on last train

  • Members
  • 3 posts
  • TDM model: 2007

Posted 13 May 2008 - 01:28 am

QUOTE(dapleb @ Tue 18th Apr 2006, 10:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Can I see the photos? I try but I cant, it loooks that the pictures are not still available.

#5 dapleb

dapleb

    Monkey Boy

  • Root Admin(A)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,301 posts
  • Location:The home of morris dancin
  • TDM model: 1990

Posted 18 May 2008 - 08:05 am

Thats the great problem with threads with buckets of photos.com etc etc, linked photos get moved. rolleyes.gif Try sending Stinky a message and see if he can put them back up!
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#6 Stink-Foot

Stink-Foot

    Carpe fan

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 152 posts
  • Location:Helsinki, Finland
  • TDM model: 1995

Posted 18 May 2008 - 08:35 am

QUOTE(MOTOPUNTO @ Tue 13th May 2008, 04:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Can I see the photos? I try but I cant, it loooks that the pictures are not still available.


Sorry mate, seems that they've been deleted from that server. I'll try to find a new host for them tonight.


EDIT:

I uploaded the pictures to another server:

http://koti.welho.co...launi/racetech/

Edited by Stink-Foot, 18 May 2008 - 04:54 pm.

Beat Your dick like it owes You money.

#7 dapleb

dapleb

    Monkey Boy

  • Root Admin(A)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,301 posts
  • Location:The home of morris dancin
  • TDM model: 1990

Posted 24 June 2012 - 07:54 am

Please reinstate photos if possible.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.


1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users