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Problem Removing Valve Cover (Coolant Tube Allen Bolt)


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#1 velf2003

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 09:26 pm

Hello to all.

 

Since I had in mind to do a valve clearance check this ...ahumm... winter, I started removing all neccesary items.

 

This went fine, untill I got to the point of removing the 6 mm allen bolt, holding the top coolant tube. This little bugger resisted so hard, that I ended up damaging the inside of the bolt. Dammaged to the point that normal tools dont  get a grip on the bolt. Heating it, hitting it with a hammer, and the  sorts don`t help to get it fixed.

 

So now I am looking for tips, tricks or advice as to how get past this problem. All comments and tips are welcome.

 

And yes, removing the  tube  by means of sawing it of (kind of neaderthaler-way.. but maybe effective) is at this point the way I am thinking.

 

There must be an alternative that I haven`t thought of.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Velf2003.

 

 

 

 



#2 jono49

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 09:35 pm

A good 3/8" drive torx drive battered in the mangled allen head, but needs to be slightly over size so it's good tight fit! the shock of knocking it in might help shock the bolt as well....but a word of warning!!!! it's alloy your working with "Dont go mental with the hammer" :good:


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#3 drewpy

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 09:50 pm

weld a nut over it, the heat will dislodge the bond between ally and steel


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#4 Hombre

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 10:18 pm

If you can lay your hands on a set like this then you may have a chance.

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#5 fixitsan

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 10:40 pm

I cut mine......had a spare good pipe on hand !


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#6 Pedro

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Posted 23 November 2016 - 09:19 pm

You can still remove the valve cover with the pipe in place. On a 3vd at least. Mine was tight also so I left it. Fiddlier but not impossible.

#7 JBX

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Posted 23 November 2016 - 10:07 pm

This should work on the 900 too.

Just remove the hose clamp from the pipe - should be even easier without the hose itself.

This have the advantage to prevent dirt inside the pipe pit from falling inside the wrong place !


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#8 velf2003

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Posted 24 November 2016 - 06:53 pm

This should work on the 900 too.

Just remove the hose clamp from the pipe - should be even easier without the hose itself.

This have the advantage to prevent dirt inside the pipe pit from falling inside the wrong place !

Hmmm, could this be true? If thats the case, it would make things a lot easyer.

 

I`m planning to try this in the weekend. But then again, plans for the weekend are often changed during the  weekend :).

 

And last, bus certainly not least: a big thanks to all who took time to respond and give input to solve my problem.

 

Cheers.

 

Velf2003



#9 fixitsan

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Posted 24 November 2016 - 09:01 pm

Neither the 900 or the mk1 have the alternate pipe, with a small bore take off sticking out the side....my mk2 has this and it made removal without cutting difficult...it's part of a small bore heater circuit to the carbs


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#10 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 24 November 2016 - 10:07 pm

The 900 does.

Valves3.jpg

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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 24 November 2016 - 10:10 pm

The 900 does.

 

 

Ah...I didn't look closely enough....and in so doing i've admitted that I've never done the shims either ;)

 

 

Does it act to de-ice the throttle bodies ? - On the mk2 it provides a hot water circuit to the carbs


Edited by fixitsan, 25 November 2016 - 08:16 am.

Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.


#12 adamg

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 08:06 am

It's a poor design (in my opinion)

#13 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 10:38 am

 

 

Ah...I didn't look closely enough....and in so doing i've admitted that I've never done the shims either ;)

 

 

Does it act to de-ice the throttle bodies ? - On the mk2 it provides a hot water circuit to the carbs

 

No idea tbh. :lol:  I just removed it then re-fitted it.  Prolly right though.


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#14 JBX

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 11:47 am

The alternate pipe on the 900 is for the Cold Start Mechanism.

There is no icing on injectors / throttle bodies, they don't work the same as carburetors (no venturi effect which lowers the air temperature).

Some icing may occurs on injected engines, but only at the airbox intake, but not on the 900 because of the way the airbox is located.


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#15 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 12:27 pm

Hmmm, icing. :cake eating:

 

Cheers JBX, always good to know about TDM stuff. :)


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#16 steve27bha

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 01:20 pm

velf, you may be interested in this thread which discussed the 900 pipe and its O ring:- http://www.carpe-tdm...topic=30588&hl=

 

My contribution at #29 has pix of the pipe entry and the state it can get in.

 

The attached pix confirm the side tube and its distance from the head cover, and show the refurbished result.

Attached Files


Edited by steve27bha, 25 November 2016 - 01:23 pm.

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#17 fixitsan

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 03:12 pm

The alternate pipe on the 900 is for the Cold Start Mechanism.

There is no icing on injectors / throttle bodies, they don't work the same as carburetors (no venturi effect which lowers the air temperature).

Some icing may occurs on injected engines, but only at the airbox intake, but not on the 900 because of the way the airbox is located.

 

 

 

I forgot the CSM was there....not sure how because I bust a knuckle working on it earlier in the year !


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#18 JBX

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 06:11 pm

velf, you may be interested in this thread which discussed the 900 pipe and its O ring:- http://www.carpe-tdm...topic=30588&hl=

 

My contribution at #29 has pix of the pipe entry and the state it can get in.

 

The attached pix confirm the side tube and its distance from the head cover, and show the refurbished result.

 

Nice restoration job Steve !

 

I can see from the lhs pic that there is a lot of salt on UK roads !


top_640.png

 

 


#19 velf2003

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:02 pm

A good 3/8" drive torx drive battered in the mangled allen head, but needs to be slightly over size so it's good tight fit! the shock of knocking it in might help shock the bolt as well....but a word of warning!!!! it's alloy your working with "Dont go mental with the hammer" :good:

Bin there, done that. 

 

And with succes

 

:good:

The silly bolt didn`t have a chance and was removed so easily that it me wonder why it couldn`t be removend  at the first attempt with the propper allen key.

 

@jono49: Thanks for the tip!!

 

Now the process of measuring the valve clearance, and if out of specs, shim the buckets will be the next thing to do.

 

By the way: whats with the whole labyrinth of bits, things and stuff onder the breatherpipe, between the two spark plugs. 

 

It almost seeems that there are a pair of spring acuated valves there. Maybe there to prevent air going the wrong direction?

 

Cheers,

Velf2003



#20 fixitsan

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:56 pm

The valves are for the auxiliary air system.

 

 

EDIT - They do nothing to help performance,it's instead an emissions control device. If you don't have a cat in your exhaust they could be blocked off, but leaving them in place gives you the option


Edited by fixitsan, 30 November 2016 - 10:34 pm.

Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.



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