312 replies to this topic

[jetman]

Did the version I, works great!

[McHammer]

Did My conversion a month or two ago..August, lot better response for the engine at the lower end of revs but I've noticed that it needs to be cranked for longer on cold start ups does this indicate a problem with the mixture
Mc Hammer

[Baron]

Did My conversion a month or two ago..August, lot better response for the engine at the lower end of revs but I've noticed that it needs to be cranked for longer on cold start ups does this indicate a problem with the mixture
Mc Hammer

The mod won't effect starting unless you've not got a good air tight seal on the vacuum tube you removed from the petrol tank. I'd double check that first if I were you.

[allan]

The mod won't effect starting unless you've not got a good air tight seal on the vacuum tube you removed from the petrol tank. I'd double check that first if I were you.

Did thismod yesterday after having the recall done,I don't notice any difference,it is still very jerky just off closed throttle.All I did was remove black pipe on top of the air box and block it off!

[OldGreyWizard]

Hi All,

I've had my TDM900A since mid June. It was a 07, with only 2,500. I'm doing just over 1,000 miles a month commuting around the A406. I mentioned it when it went in for it's service and I was told that the carbs were a little out. To be fair for a while it was a little better, but is now as bad as it ever was. I've turned the idle speed up to 1200 but the low speed stalling still happens unexpectedly. Three times today.

My question is this, will the engine mod, I, help cure this?
Is it worth checking the O2 levels?
Is this a common problem?

I hope to meet up with some of you soon.

Regards

OGW

[dandywarhol]

Hi All,

I've had my TDM900A since mid June. It was a 07, with only 2,500. I'm doing just over 1,000 miles a month commuting around the A406. I mentioned it when it went in for it's service and I was told that the carbs were a little out. To be fair for a while it was a little better, but is now as bad as it ever was. I've turned the idle speed up to 1200 but the low speed stalling still happens unexpectedly. Three times today.

My question is this, will the engine mod, I, help cure this?
Is it worth checking the O2 levels?
Is this a common problem?

I hope to meet up with some of you soon.

Regards

OGW

Check the fast idle plunger isn't sticking OGW - plenty about it in "search"

PS - no carbs - it's fuel injected - and they need balanced every so often

[dandywarhol]

Directly under the tank you'll see a vacuum pipe and a diaphragm valve. Disconnect the pipe and plug it - I use a shortened pop rivit - job done

[SteveAussieTDM900]

Did option 1 today. I used this as a good opportunity to finally take off the faring and clean up after my first 5000 km. So far I've only ridden at very low speed, but the hesitation seems to be gone when in gear near idle. The bike is still idling as expected at ca. 1000 - 1100 RPM.

I placed an Ikea shelf support rivet in the rubber hose and a screw into the metal spigot. I also added some duct tape around the screw to ensure a good seal. I'll check back tomorrow to see if the spigot gets too hot for the duct tape.

I'm going for a ride tomorrow, so I'll post back with results.

[SteveAussieTDM900]

I'm going for a ride tomorrow, so I'll post back with results.

We did about 150km today, and I have to say that I am very pleased with the low rev change so far. It just seems less jerky / snatchy under 3500 RPM. I still don't think that I should lug out the engine under heavy load at that point in the rev range, but the engine just seems to breathe so much easier between 2500 and 4000. I can finally find a comfortable gear for 50 km/h!!

I'll report back with mileage findings.

[AJ_Blizzard]

Does this look right for mod 2?

Used a snug fitting red plastic blank that I found in the drawer in my garage - don't ask me what it originally came off. Why would option 1 be easier? Using a pair of snipe nose pliers it took about 60 seconds to pull off the hose and shove on the red blank ! Another ten seconds to screw in a self tapper into the open hose end - no dismantling required !





Dan

Looks right, yes
Did the mod this way myself; unfortunately irreversible it seems, as I shoved at piece of metal into the tube that's stuck there forever - impossible to remove...

Well... doesn't matter, really. I've no intention to remove it as long as everything works perfect No reason to believe that the air box mod is likely to cause any trouble as far as I can tell.

[spurdog]

Hi Carpe members

I did the airbox mod yesterday - option 2, and it seems to make a slight difference, mainly when shutting off the throttle below 4000rpm. It seems the tickover may be a bit less smooth.

Also I have noticed (before I did the mod) one of the exhaust pipes (C2) has blued far more than the other. I have read a number of forum entries regarding pipes getting hot and wondered if adjusting the CO might affect this. Has anybody else had this problem? Are my CO figures for the cylinders likely to be very different?

I now have the method for Checking the CO so will try it out tonight. Most people here seem to find the set up C1=20, C2=20 works for them, is that a good place to start?

Spurdog

Edited by spurdog, 20 May 2009 - 03:07 pm.

[Juku]

Howdy fellow TDM riders,

and greetings from Finland!
I've been actively reading this forum, and needless to say, that it's great information source together JBX tech pages.

About the topic: I have a 2005 TDM900 with all stock parts. I got interested about the airbox mod and CO2 levels after reading, so I first checked the CO2 levels (20/20) but did not change them. Then I did the airbox mod, which helped a little bit to the jerkiness at low revs.

Now the other day I got all crazy and bought a K&N airfilter. After installing the filter, I checked the CO2 levels as, I thought I would need to richen the mix a bit. And surprise surprise, the levels were now 25/25!
So after the airbox mod and some ~500km of driving, somehow the bike had increased the CO2 levels by 5 in both cylinders by itself... What?? how?? When?? I read that someone had similar experiences?

I guess there needs to be somekind of sensor doing this, but just in case, I'm now calling my bike "Christine"

- Juku

[pricey]

..it's quite interesting to see how people interpret the Co2 adjustment...i have found that the figures on screen do not relate to Co2 % figures..they are merely a figure in a scale used by the ecu giving a message to the injector system.....how have i come to this you are wondering ..well using a cO2 meter on my 02 9er i found that to get C1 down to what Yamaha spec figures require,less than 1% after cat with sensor still plugged in i have to dial in minus -39, but for C2 i have + 7...now this is on a fresh set of throttle bodies taken from an 04 as the previous set had a seized balance screw, which were running on settings C1 = 9 & C2 = 15...my point is, by setting to what someone else is running which has not been checked by a Co2 meter, you have no idea if this is correct for yours or not....i am actually running the mixture at 3% which has the settings C1 = -5 & C2 = 9....so theres no rhyme or reason to these numbers, they are merely a computer program value.
I'm finding it is smoother across the rev range at this setting and easier cold starting and have found the plugs burn a nice brown indicating good mixture, unlike less than 1% which leaves the plugs white....

Just think what damage can be caused if the figures your dialling in either over richens the mixture, excess petrol, bore being washed of oil, engine wear ect or too weak, pre detonation and possible holey piston.com...

food for thought

[Juku]

Hi pricey,

even with my very limited knowledge in engine mechanics, I did figure out that the CO2 figures in TDM's screen are not %.
But with the same vague logic, I also thought that if the value range is from -128 to 128, then changing it +/-5 can't do that much damage.. And I would be still going to have a 30Tkm service done soon, so the guys at shop could test it with co2 meter.

Anyways, I'm still wondering how and with what logic the bike is adjusting the levels on it own?
And yes, I'm 100% positive I didn't change them by accident, nor did my wife or SantaClaus

-Juku

[pricey]

Hi pricey,


Anyways, I'm still wondering how and with what logic the bike is adjusting the levels on it own?
And yes, I'm 100% positive I didn't change them by accident, nor did my wife or SantaClaus

-Juku

mmm interesting...so in theory, you tell the computer what you want ie 20/20 then just like the wife it does what she wants anyway

is this perhaps year specific or could it be a voltage thing?...have you ever had a home computer that loses it's settings because the internal memory battery has gone down...i had a merc a class semi auto which would not change gear because of a 0.5 volt drop due to a slipping alternator belt....

i have seen mention of changing values..i seem to remember it was a massive jump to -128, cant remember who it was or if they fathomed it out.
It certainly has not happened to me.

i would think that if it was self regulating there would be no need for a function to change it though

[JBX]

Actually this a CO setting, not a CO2.

This setting is given in arbitrary unit (-128 to +128), this is an 8 bit value (there is nothing in the documentation which indicates this is a CO percentage).

This value is an offset that is added to the injector solenoid pulse length to compensate for some purely mechanical parameters :
- fuel pressure regulator
- air intake geometry
- engine internal variations
- etc.

The ECU compute the injector solenoid pulse length from a set of sensors which may also present some variations in production & electrical characteristics.

The CO value is stored inside an EEPROM : it does not reset in case of power off - there is no power applied to the ECU when the main switch is off (only the clock stays on)
Resetting to zero seems to be more a firmware issue - the same kind of the TPS issue...

One more word : all sensors are powered by the ECU, voltage is +5V, not the battery voltage.
In case the battery is weak, the ECU & sensors still work OK.

Hope this helps !

Edited by JBX, 22 May 2009 - 01:38 am.

[dandywarhol]

But for some unfathomable reason my settings have changed by themselves JBX - some kind of firmware glitch?

PS - you going to get across for the RTT in the Dordogne?