
Help! Rear Suspension Linkage
#1
Posted 15 November 2009 - 09:31 pm
Also there is about 25 thou of side to side in the swingarm with the linkage disconnected. can this be removed by tightening up the spindle nut?
help appreciated
thanks in advance
Mark
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#2
Guest_celticbiker_*
Posted 15 November 2009 - 10:23 pm
Edited by celticbiker, 15 November 2009 - 10:23 pm.
#3
Posted 15 November 2009 - 10:30 pm
thanks for the reply. what does it look like, or where can I get one?
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#4
Guest_celticbiker_*
Posted 15 November 2009 - 11:34 pm
#5
Posted 15 November 2009 - 11:47 pm
Also there is about 25 thou of side to side in the swingarm with the linkage disconnected. can this be removed by tightening up the spindle nut?
help appreciated
thanks in advance
Mark
Do not use brut force as the lower pivot may break !
Use an extractor if it doesn't come loose easily.
Check the page on my site, I've faced the same problem.
Yep, that's what it's made for !
#6
Posted 16 November 2009 - 06:21 pm
thanks
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#7
Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:17 pm
thanks
why don't ya ask a yamaha dealer what ya need and how mush etc ??

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#8
Posted 20 November 2009 - 09:12 pm
emaild a few Yamaha dealers as there's none local for a special tool. None replied (perhaps they leave this one when they do the service)
got a 2" long M5 countersing screw. Wrapped some stainless wire and a few split washers on it so it slid into the pin snug. Tightened a nut down on the screw to compress the wire and grip the inside of the pin. Gentle heat on the lug with a paint stripping gun on lowest setting for a few mins to get the alloy lug up to temp (no more than you can leave your finger on) wiggle and pull....Bingo. Glad I did as the bearings were quite dry and a few more miles the bearings may have been shot.
Thanks for all the advice (especially the "Don't hit it") because breaking that frame lug would be a mega catastrophe!!
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#9
Guest_celticbiker_*
Posted 20 November 2009 - 09:29 pm
emaild a few Yamaha dealers as there's none local for a special tool. None replied (perhaps they leave this one when they do the service)
got a 2" long M5 countersing screw. Wrapped some stainless wire and a few split washers on it so it slid into the pin snug. Tightened a nut down on the screw to compress the wire and grip the inside of the pin. Gentle heat on the lug with a paint stripping gun on lowest setting for a few mins to get the alloy lug up to temp (no more than you can leave your finger on) wiggle and pull....Bingo. Glad I did as the bearings were quite dry and a few more miles the bearings may have been shot.
Thanks for all the advice (especially the "Don't hit it") because breaking that frame lug would be a mega catastrophe!!
You aint kidding mine snapped off a little while ago(both of them) and about 3 months ago someone else had the same problem.
I think you're right though I reckon dealers tend not to bother with that part of the service.
#10
Posted 20 November 2009 - 09:30 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#11
Posted 20 November 2009 - 09:41 pm
I think you're right though I reckon dealers tend not to bother with that part of the service.
what did you do celt? is there a repair for that or is it a new frame job?
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#12
Posted 20 November 2009 - 09:57 pm

Actually, I fitted one myself to a Honda Pro-Link that had seized and took me 3 days to take apart

#13
Guest_celticbiker_*
#14
Posted 21 November 2009 - 08:23 am
Fantastic CB. Unfortunately I don't have that sort of equipment or the skills to use it. Best I keep mine clean and well greased. forget every 6000 miles I'm going for every 3000
thanks for the info
Mark
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#15
Posted 21 November 2009 - 10:14 am
Just got to get that fazer put back together & off the ramp first

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#16
Guest_LinX_*
Posted 23 March 2010 - 11:54 pm
emaild a few Yamaha dealers as there's none local for a special tool. None replied (perhaps they leave this one when they do the service)
got a 2" long M5 countersing screw. Wrapped some stainless wire and a few split washers on it so it slid into the pin snug. Tightened a nut down on the screw to compress the wire and grip the inside of the pin. Gentle heat on the lug with a paint stripping gun on lowest setting for a few mins to get the alloy lug up to temp (no more than you can leave your finger on) wiggle and pull....Bingo. Glad I did as the bearings were quite dry and a few more miles the bearings may have been shot.
Thanks for all the advice (especially the "Don't hit it") because breaking that frame lug would be a mega catastrophe!!
Sorry for digging out this old topic, but I'm currently facing the same problem. I've tried and managed to grip a rubber-coated screw inside that collar which I intend to extract, but with all the pulling and "careful enough" hammering from the other side, it still wouldn't go out.
Somebody more experienced than me on these matters suggested inserting a 10 or 12 mm tap inside the collar and start "threading" it. That way it should start to rotate at some point and brake loose; if it it doesn't, I should get the tap stuck in there and try to hammer it out from the other side. What do you think about this, do you think is a risky operation? Could that hammering be so dangerous... I mean using a hammer with some decency, not a sledgehammer or something like that.
I know many of you may think that a Yamaha service should be the right route to follow but at least here where I live, I really don't trust them at all. I may not have the tools or the experience, but I care...

@Commando: Do you have by any chance some photos of your improvised tool? Thanks.
#17
Posted 24 March 2010 - 07:47 am
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#18
Posted 24 March 2010 - 08:45 am

Actually, I fitted one myself to a Honda Pro-Link that had seized and took me 3 days to take apart

I must be as old as you then cos i had a honda with prolink, an XR200 which i used to ride enduro.
Dave
Edited by silver, 24 March 2010 - 08:47 am.
TBE
#19
Guest_LinX_*
Posted 24 March 2010 - 11:17 am
Thank you. I hope it will work without the heat gun.
#20
Posted 24 March 2010 - 09:16 pm
Gentle and prolonged heat should free it. It takes a while as there is a lot of alloy to warm up. I got mine to a temperature that I could just still leave my finger on (aboyt 60 degrees C I think) and it just twisted and pulled out easily. I tried the tap method but the steel was too hard and the tap would not bite. After getting mine out, I read somwhere that a 10mm comression type wall fixing was used. This could be pulled out using a nut and socket without putting any stress on the alloy lug.
No heat was needed to reassemble it, it is a close tolerence fit and slides in nice with a bit of grease
PS I'm not convinced a Yamaha service tool exists as none of the dealers I spoke to seemed to have any idea what I was talking about
good luck
Mark
71 Norton 750 Fastback
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