3vd Engine Rebuild
#1
Posted 13 May 2010 - 08:59 am
so now i have to strip the engine to small bits and pieces and identify the level of damage on crankshaft, piston rods an bearing.
I'll post some pics of the procedure
p.s. it is my first engine rebuild but I hope that I will manage it with help of a service manual .
any tips or tricks regarding this process is very welcome!!
#2
Posted 13 May 2010 - 09:07 am
My best tips would be:
Very carefully doument the dismantling (time invested here is easily repaid on the rebuild). Photos and video help. Including wiring and tube routing before removing enjun.
Research on Carpe before you embark so you are aware of the costs involved and the likely problems.
Take your time and pay attention to detail.
Inspect and measure everything very carefully.
You might find it easier (and cheaper) to source a replacement
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#3
Posted 13 May 2010 - 11:38 am
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now ![]()
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.


#4
Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:13 pm
I got a gasket set of eBay for a bit over £70 inc p&p.
The big end shells, main shells and rings are costing about £130 from Fowlers
I also had to shell out for a crank and rods but it still worked out cheaper than any of the seccond hand motors I could find!!
....It's an up hill struggle!!
MK1 TDM850 road bike, FZR1000 Genesis front wheel, 600 bandit rear wheel with a 160/60/17!! Half worn BT016's!!
MK1 TDM850 race bike, MK2 forks, FZR400RR swingarm and linkage R6 shock, 900 barrels, 11.5:1 Wiseco pistons n stuff
#5
Posted 13 May 2010 - 06:10 pm
what damage to expect?
it starts fine and runs good in neutral but when i rev her it starts banging somewhere and knocking
p.s.
I can't see pics on tonydevil post
Edited by danbara, 14 May 2010 - 07:33 am.
#6
Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:44 am
I have striped my engine now and looking at things it might be posible to change the big ends without striping the engine, if you take the exhaust, sump and the oil strainer part you can see the big ends through the gap.
I have not tryed this myself so can't be sure it will work.
Best of luck with it!!
....It's an up hill struggle!!
MK1 TDM850 road bike, FZR1000 Genesis front wheel, 600 bandit rear wheel with a 160/60/17!! Half worn BT016's!!
MK1 TDM850 race bike, MK2 forks, FZR400RR swingarm and linkage R6 shock, 900 barrels, 11.5:1 Wiseco pistons n stuff
#7
Guest_brianvg_*
Posted 14 May 2010 - 03:48 pm
Good luck, and take lots of pics for yourself!!
#8
Posted 20 May 2010 - 07:44 am
just to show u what we did i am posting these pic

that's my cousin ( expert mechanic - lawyer by trade) hehehe doing some carb dismantling

these are first few parts that has to be removed

let the oil go out

from other perspective

engine is out ( that was quiet tricky since we didn't have any kind of jack to hoist the engine so we used an old tire

final result
Edited by danbara, 20 May 2010 - 07:50 am.
#9
Posted 20 May 2010 - 01:10 pm
u offered me pics of engine strip and it would be lovely if u could post them here
thanx
#10
Posted 20 May 2010 - 02:07 pm
If you want a guide on how to do a basic top end removal then I would ask Tony to get the pictures put back in his thread. If you are stuck on putting something together or need detailed pics of where/how components go then lettuce snow which bit and oil dig up a pic.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#11
Posted 20 May 2010 - 02:26 pm
I think Brian also bought quite a few new seals from an Eskimo, err, I mean a yamaha dealer, along with gaskets and bearings etc.
EDIT: Looks to be a nice bike from what can I see
EDIT2: Just noticed your rear shock has a blue spring. Is it a standard shock ?
Edited by Studley Ramrod, 20 May 2010 - 02:32 pm.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#12
Guest_brianvg_*
Posted 20 May 2010 - 08:53 pm
The hardest tool I had to fabricate for the rebuild was a rotor puller. You need a nice solid chunk of steel, some m8 threaded bar, and a few nuts and washers, also an M10 or bigger bolt and the ability to cut threads for it. You will also need a massive strap wrench to hold the rotor still just to loosen the rotor bolt. A bit non-sequitery, but those two things just came to mind. You can check out my picassa account with a bunch of pics and the tools I whacked together here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Br14nvG
Ahh memories...
Edited by brianvg, 20 May 2010 - 08:57 pm.
#13
Posted 21 May 2010 - 07:16 am
the thing is how much will delivery cost since I am in middle Europe and this is USA but it is great
p.s. the pics are great.
did u have to change crankshaft as well ?
#14
Posted 24 May 2010 - 06:13 pm
first piston big end have some slack.
have to take crankshaft out to asses the damage
I hope I would not need to change crankshaft and piston rod
d..... it
#15
Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:36 pm
From your PM you wanted pics of good and bad cranks and rods.
Good:
crank_good1.JPG 58.03KB
33 downloads
crank_good2.JPG 71.23KB
30 downloads
crank_good3.JPG 46.44KB
35 downloadsNot so good:
crank_verybad1.JPG 14.08KB
43 downloads
crank_verybad2.JPG 94.97KB
42 downloadsIf you want a picture of something more specific then take a pic of what you have/want and I will try and find a close comparison picture.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#16
Guest_brianvg_*
Posted 25 May 2010 - 05:50 pm
I replaced my entire transmission with a late model mk1 transmission. The difference between old and new is dramatic. It shifts soooo much more smoothly now...
#17
Posted 27 May 2010 - 09:15 am
i tried with classic puller but no movement, so i decided to build something like brian did, but also had no success wit it
the bloody thing just wont come of.
any piece of advice????
#18
Posted 27 May 2010 - 09:34 am
Maybe a little bit of carefully directed heat? Not sure if this can poop the magnet though.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#19
Posted 27 May 2010 - 05:56 pm
all the best.
#20
Guest_brianvg_*
Posted 27 May 2010 - 07:31 pm
BTW, as long as you don't get to the curie point of the magnet, a little heat might help it to come off. Just use a heat gun and stay away from the blowtorch!
Edited by brianvg, 27 May 2010 - 07:33 pm.
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