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3vd Engine Rebuild


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#1 danbara

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 08:59 am

When mine Mk1 run out of oil it started producing knocking and rattling sound what i first thought was dry valves or camshaft. but i was wrong because after some time it started again.

so now i have to strip the engine to small bits and pieces and identify the level of damage on crankshaft, piston rods an bearing.

I'll post some pics of the procedure


p.s. it is my first engine rebuild but I hope that I will manage it with help of a service manual .

any tips or tricks regarding this process is very welcome!!

#2 dapleb

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 09:07 am

Good luck it is quite straight forward but time consuming task.

My best tips would be:

Very carefully doument the dismantling (time invested here is easily repaid on the rebuild). Photos and video help. Including wiring and tube routing before removing enjun.

Research on Carpe before you embark so you are aware of the costs involved and the likely problems.

Take your time and pay attention to detail.

Inspect and measure everything very carefully.

You might find it easier (and cheaper) to source a replacement

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Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#3 ChrisG

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 11:38 am

Theres a thread in the knowledgebase with a load of photos of one of Tonydevils rebuilds that is worth a look. Agree with dappers about cost though. Gaskets and seals are flipping expensive before you even get on to replacement parts, so try and price it up first and compare to replacement engine prices, though you could end up with someone elses problems that way. It's an interesting learning experience though. Good luck.

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#4 MadAd

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:13 pm

It's good that you caught it befor it got to the same point as mine!! Siezed!!
I got a gasket set of eBay for a bit over £70 inc p&p.
The big end shells, main shells and rings are costing about £130 from Fowlers
I also had to shell out for a crank and rods but it still worked out cheaper than any of the seccond hand motors I could find!!
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#5 danbara

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 06:10 pm

engine would cost me around 1000 euro or more since i live in bosnia and we have to import it, and new parts from yamaha dealer are 250, gaskets, new bearings plus 50 euro for crankshaft repair if it is needed.


what damage to expect?

it starts fine and runs good in neutral but when i rev her it starts banging somewhere and knocking



p.s.
I can't see pics on tonydevil post sad.gif

Edited by danbara, 14 May 2010 - 07:33 am.


#6 MadAd

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:44 am

It sounds like your big ends, mine was the same and then siezed!!
I have striped my engine now and looking at things it might be posible to change the big ends without striping the engine, if you take the exhaust, sump and the oil strainer part you can see the big ends through the gap.
I have not tryed this myself so can't be sure it will work.
Best of luck with it!!
Hillclimbing....
....It's an up hill struggle!!

MK1 TDM850 road bike, FZR1000 Genesis front wheel, 600 bandit rear wheel with a 160/60/17!! Half worn BT016's!!
MK1 TDM850 race bike, MK2 forks, FZR400RR swingarm and linkage R6 shock, 900 barrels, 11.5:1 Wiseco pistons n stuff

#7 Guest_brianvg_*

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 03:48 pm

The crank case needs to be split to get at the big end bearings. No chance of getting to them without a total disassembly. I recently finished mine. It runs like a dream and will do so for a very long time. That alone sort of makes up for the slight cost difference over a second hand motor. The process is really quite easy, just takes a LOT of time and patience. I would do a re-bore and re-seat the valves as well when everything is apart, as it saves on buying gaskets again when it has to be done later. I would do the valves yourself, as many machinists seem to know little more than a well read lay person (note differing lengths of intake valves). Of course you will need a hone as well, and that cant be done yourself.

Good luck, and take lots of pics for yourself!!

#8 danbara

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 07:44 am

first few steps have been made

just to show u what we did i am posting these pic





that's my cousin ( expert mechanic - lawyer by trade) hehehe doing some carb dismantling






these are first few parts that has to be removed





let the oil go out




from other perspective





engine is out ( that was quiet tricky since we didn't have any kind of jack to hoist the engine so we used an old tire biggrin.gif )





final result wink.gif

Edited by danbara, 20 May 2010 - 07:50 am.


#9 danbara

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 01:10 pm

@ dapleb

u offered me pics of engine strip and it would be lovely if u could post them here

thanx

#10 dapleb

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 02:07 pm

Okey dokey. Let me know what part of the many 1000's you want a picture of?

If you want a guide on how to do a basic top end removal then I would ask Tony to get the pictures put back in his thread. If you are stuck on putting something together or need detailed pics of where/how components go then lettuce snow which bit and oil dig up a pic.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#11 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 02:26 pm

You may need a few specialist/custom made tools. Clutch holding tool, bearing pullers and whatever else Brianvg and others can think of.

I think Brian also bought quite a few new seals from an Eskimo, err, I mean a yamaha dealer, along with gaskets and bearings etc.


EDIT: Looks to be a nice bike from what can I see smile.gif

EDIT2: Just noticed your rear shock has a blue spring. Is it a standard shock ?

Edited by Studley Ramrod, 20 May 2010 - 02:32 pm.

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#12 Guest_brianvg_*

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 08:53 pm

Try Boats.net for parts. Cheapest I have found, even with shipping.

The hardest tool I had to fabricate for the rebuild was a rotor puller. You need a nice solid chunk of steel, some m8 threaded bar, and a few nuts and washers, also an M10 or bigger bolt and the ability to cut threads for it. You will also need a massive strap wrench to hold the rotor still just to loosen the rotor bolt. A bit non-sequitery, but those two things just came to mind. You can check out my picassa account with a bunch of pics and the tools I whacked together here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Br14nvG

Ahh memories... smile.gif the job is a lot of fun!

Edited by brianvg, 20 May 2010 - 08:57 pm.


#13 danbara

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Posted 21 May 2010 - 07:16 am

tnx for the link with pics and parts.

the thing is how much will delivery cost since I am in middle Europe and this is USA but it is great

p.s. the pics are great.

did u have to change crankshaft as well ?

#14 danbara

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 06:13 pm

removed head and cylinders block, pistons are out

first piston big end have some slack.

have to take crankshaft out to asses the damage


I hope I would not need to change crankshaft and piston rod

d..... it

#15 dapleb

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:36 pm

Heya,

From your PM you wanted pics of good and bad cranks and rods.


Good:
Attached File  crank_good1.JPG   58.03KB   33 downloads
Attached File  crank_good2.JPG   71.23KB   30 downloads
Attached File  crank_good3.JPG   46.44KB   35 downloads

Not so good: laugh.gif
Attached File  crank_verybad1.JPG   14.08KB   43 downloads
Attached File  crank_verybad2.JPG   94.97KB   42 downloads

If you want a picture of something more specific then take a pic of what you have/want and I will try and find a close comparison picture.


"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#16 Guest_brianvg_*

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 05:50 pm

My crank and main bearings were all in good shape. I left well enough alone. The reason for my rebuild was a bad third gear. You should post some pics of your gear sets (particularly the third gear cogs) because if they are on their way out, when the motor is apart would be the (only) time to replace them. It takes very little wear on the third gear dogs for them to begin jumping out at high torque. Also be sure and check the straightness of the shift fork and shift fork shafts. If the box has been abused they could be bent. Basically, if you are going to the trouble of splitting the crankcase halves it is worth it to carefully examine all the parts that are inside of it (there are actually not that many...) and make sure that they are all in top condition. It is a real pain in the ass to get the crank case halves perfectly clean, properly lathered up with yamabond and put all back together. It is not a job you will want to do more often than necessary.

I replaced my entire transmission with a late model mk1 transmission. The difference between old and new is dramatic. It shifts soooo much more smoothly now...

#17 danbara

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 09:15 am

I'm having trouble taking magnet of.

i tried with classic puller but no movement, so i decided to build something like brian did, but also had no success wit it

the bloody thing just wont come of.

any piece of advice????

#18 dapleb

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 09:34 am

Oi managed to distort me biggest 3 legged puller gettin one off. The others have come off without much problem.

Maybe a little bit of carefully directed heat? Not sure if this can poop the magnet though.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#19 Oil patch

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 05:56 pm

Treat the magnet with respect as they can be demagnetised by knocking, I mean sharp blows with hammer, or by applied heat.
all the best. dry.gif

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 07:31 pm

My first puller attempt failed as well. You need a solidly two to three centimeter thick chunk of strong steel with an m12 bolt tapped into the center and then of course the three m8 holder rods. It has to go on straight, and has to be tightened down on to the bolt (threaded in until there is about 2 mm of space below the head.) then you go to town with a strap wrench on the rotor and a breaker bar on your m12 bolt. It will snap, with a loud bang, when it gets pulled enough. The shaft is tapered, so it only has to be made to budge. Then it slides right off when you remove its mounting bolt!

BTW, as long as you don't get to the curie point of the magnet, a little heat might help it to come off. Just use a heat gun and stay away from the blowtorch!

Edited by brianvg, 27 May 2010 - 07:33 pm.



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