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24hrs Of Hell, Fixing Fast Idle Plunger


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#1 Geordie Guy

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:40 pm

Started Sunday morning 11.00 till 12.00 midnight, then again today.

Fook me what a job ! ranting.gif

On the new bike I noticed that on start up the bike struggled to maintain 1,000 RPM and then slowly rise to 1,250 RPM on big red it would go up to 1,800 and then drop to 1,250.

Looking on JBX Minty had posted his solution for the cold start solutions, First I tried the option 1 but the plunger was solid.

So I had to take it off. JBX page link

Tried to unscrew it, too tight to get anything in , spent ages cutting tools down fecking every thing I tried failed. By that time I had chewd up the screw slots , so there was no point in taking the radiator off, plus i did not have a foot long screwdrive.

Decided to demil two slots in to use a flat screwdriver. Got one out but the other just collapsed, those screw heads are seriously tight and there is no way to stop it slipping.

so late last night I bit the bullet abd Dremil the whole head off.

Even the two side screws tore up, they are just the wrong fixting.

Today just went and got some M5 allen key fixings and replaced the lot.







once the head is off it just springs apart, the plunger was solid and took an age to free and polish up so it moved freely.

Replacing is easy.









Why Yamaha did not use these fixings in the first place , I do not know.



I had to use this mini ratchet and the back has been cut down to fit, that is how tight it is.

Started it up and SORTED ! clapping.gif

What a bloody job, its a bastard to get to and the odd thing is the position is open to all the crap that would get drawn through radiator.

Moral of the story,

LUBE your PLUNGER.


I'm off for a Johnny Walkers Black, I have earned it. drinks.gif

Cheers, Ivan
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#2 leehenty

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:51 pm

I had this nasty little problem, so did Moose and several others. my solution was similar to yours, use allen bolts and a small bellows seal off a model boat supplier.
I didn't want to keep going in there and cleaning it. Should have had a seal on in the first place.
Yamaha san make the engine off the bike and it just has to last long enough to get out of warranty.
The right tool to do this job (Bahco 2058S26 Ratchet Socket Bit Set 26-Piece) is here below, just be sure to use a tight fitting philips bit, not a common pozi bit, the angles inside the cross are different. Still a pig of a job though.

http://www.amazon.co...c...841&sr=1-11

Bellows came from here Part GA18, snip off small end at bottom of third bump. four cost £2.95.plus post.

http://www.prestwich...uk/hdwraccs.htm


Edited by leehenty, 24 April 2012 - 05:02 pm.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.


#3 Pantboy

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 07:41 am

QUOTE(leehenty @ Mon 23rd Apr 2012, 11:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I had this nasty little problem, so did Moose and several others. my solution was similar to yours, use allen bolts and a small bellows seal off a model boat supplier.
http://www.prestwich...uk/hdwraccs.htm


not been to prestwich models for many years, but then again i gave up model boating years ago too rolleyes.gif

#4 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 09:57 am


Well done Ivan ! drinks.gif Warra ball-ache eh !

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#5 ChrisG

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 10:00 am

I like that bellows seal idea. I was lucky when I did mine and manage to get the screws out easily with a screwdriver bit held in a pair of mole grips. SagaLout always reckons to squird some WD40 in the area every time he washes the bike, but as that's only once or twice a year for me I think I'll be going for the stainless hex bolts and bellows option next time it causes me any grief.

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#6 Matlock

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 10:02 am

Perseverance (and a Dremmel) pays off rotflmmfao.gif Well done Ivan. Touching wood, I've never had this problem, I wonder if it's because mine gets used most days, all year, so the plunger is moving regularly and keeping itself free? If you get stuck with anything like this again, feel free to give me a ring if you want a hand. I've no more idea than you, but I've got a well appointed garage, full of tools, and a fine collection of hammers!

Edited by Matlock, 24 April 2012 - 10:03 am.

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#7 dmmsta

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 11:05 am

I had that grief about 6 months after I got my 9er.

Stripped it down and gave it a good clean and all way gravy. I did have problems subsequent to that, and thought it was the same thing, however I borked the same screws you mentioned trying to remove it, so ended up applying a liberal amount of WD, and leaving it as is.

This does mean that once I have a weekend to do all the bits outstanding, I'll be swearing loudly at the bikes mid-rif in a vain attempt to get the taffy screws out.

(Oh and of course the usual PM to Mr Henty for the stainless bits prior to the work starting!)

Edited by dmmsta, 24 April 2012 - 11:05 am.

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#8 Chris B

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 11:20 am

I just get something solid long and thing (not jokes) like a 1/2 extension bar then go to the LHS of the bike find it line up the extension and twat it with a mallet. No the most delicate of fixes but mine has been trouble free for 20k all weather miles.

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#9 JBX

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 02:03 pm

I like the Dremel and allen bolts solution !

Didn't have the idle plunger problem on my bike, although it's a 2002 model & I've never lubed this part !

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#10 leehenty

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 04:13 pm

The Henty house of stainless does actually make a little kit up for this job.

£4.85 delivered in UK. Choice of hex head or allen head M5 screws. (8mm AF head)

Sometimes the 30mm hex head screws are easier to get in and out.

Comprises of
2 off M5 x 30mm screws
2 off M5 x 16mm screws
4 off M5 spring washers
1 off rubber seal boot.


Edited by leehenty, 23 April 2013 - 09:30 am.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.


#11 dmmsta

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:11 am

QUOTE(leehenty @ Tue 24th Apr 2012, 05:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The Henty house of stainless does actually make a little kit up for this job.

£4.50 delivered in UK. Choice of hex head or allen head M5 screws. (8mm AF head)

Sometimes the 30mm hex head screws are easier to get in and out.

Comprises of
2 off M5 x 30mm screws
2 off M5 x 16mm screws
4 off M5 spring washers
1 off rubber seal boot.


I'll be in touch next week (post payday smile.gif)
MY06 TDM 900 Blue over Silver 354906_45.png
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs

To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards

-----
MY04 TDM 900 Blue over Silver Parts Bin
MY02 TDM 900 Yellow over Black RIP
post-1-1150550733.gif...post-1-1150559830.gif...copilot_zpsgezqc0xz.jpg...hids.jpg...

#12 dandywarhol

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 05:02 pm

I was lucky - used a 1/4 drive crosshead/extension/ratchet and cracked back the screws, stripping the unit in place. Good shout on the rubber bitty clapping.gif

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#13 Stratman

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 05:51 pm

I have just noticed that on cold start up the revs aren't high as they were before. However, she starts and runs no problem so the questions are:- is this likelt to be the fast idle plunger (I guess that will be a yes) but if she starts and runs OK, is there any point in fiddling about with it?


Two bikes, still only four cylinders!

#14 TKH

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:43 pm

When I had the problem, the revs increase when the bike warmed up. Revving it they would drop and then raise again. If you're going anywhere near for airfilter, etc. it may well be worth giving it a good lube. Mr Henty did a really good kit (don't know if he still does) it replaced the bolts and provided a rubber cover for the mechanism. I think it's covered above on how to diy. Something Yamaha should have done as stock imho.



#15 leehenty

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 10:52 am

 Mr Henty keeps kits in stock. This will be an ongoing problem for the niners, even new ones still leave it open to the elements. Spray the internal pin with ACF50, fit boot kit, forget it.


Edited by leehenty, 20 March 2013 - 01:12 am.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.


#16 Stratman

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 12:36 pm

I am grateful milud. I will have a fiddle in due course when it warms up enough for my fingers not to freeze to the bike. I might try some plus gas around the plunger and the whack with the long bar first though - a lot less kerfuffle!


Two bikes, still only four cylinders!

#17 TKH

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 09:29 pm

I am grateful milud. I will have a fiddle in due course when it warms up enough for my fingers not to freeze to the bike. I might try some plus gas around the plunger and the whack with the long bar first though - a lot less kerfuffle!

Mine needed persuading to get it free - after removal. TBH once you have the kit on it covers it up, fit and forget.



#18 Ronnie

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 10:14 am

The Henty house of stainless does actually make a little kit up for this job.

£4.50 delivered in UK. Choice of hex head or allen head M5 screws. (8mm AF head)

Sometimes the 30mm hex head screws are easier to get in and out.

Comprises of
2 off M5 x 30mm screws
2 off M5 x 16mm screws
4 off M5 spring washers
1 off rubber seal boot.

Any chance you could help me source this rather natty bit of kit as I too have this problem.



#19 leehenty

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 12:10 pm

no problem, just pm your addy and all that, I'll get one sent out asap.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.


#20 Borderraider

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:01 pm

Thanks for the write up, I'll attempt to repair mine tomorrow.
Bikes been garaged since October, fitted battery & eventually got it fired up to find revs wont drop below 2k.

17 years of GS's and not had any such issues ;-)
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