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Won't Start But Can't See Why ###solved###


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#1 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 09:45 am

Unusual for me, as I can normally get to the bottom of most problems.
Started ok yesterday, first push of the button.
Today it turns over but no start (not battery issue)
After a few preliminary checks realise the fuel pump isn't running.
12v (actually 13.5 but the battery had been on charge) at the white connector at the pump with ignition on and 0v with ignition off.
0.3v at green connector (assuming this is a pressure sensor wire).
Thought I'd check the on board diagnostics and found a historical err 19 and a 30.
19 is sidestand, diag shows it is always on, so looks like it has been bypassed previously,
30 is an overturned motorcycle code but on checking the tilt switch is reading 0.6v which is correct for an upright bike.
Here's the interesting bit, thought I'd jump to diag monitoring number 62 and clear the codes but turning the engine stop switch on did nothing.
Thinking this is a bit odd I went to #51 and tried the fan but nothing, same at #52 for the headlights, it seems the engine run switch is not working in these tests, any ideas? 
This seems like the wiggly ignition switch thing but no amount of wiggling seems to sort it.
+

Edited by celticbiker, 03 April 2016 - 09:19 pm.




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#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 09:55 am

The reason your pump might not be running could be that it actually primed up when you were trying to start the bike, so it didn't need to prime up when you were testing it ?

 

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#3 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 10:20 am

Yeh, did think of that Studders but took the fuel pipe off and nothing's coming out, that said, I did take it off the the pump side and there is a non removable something half way down the pipe that could be a non return valve.

Can't get my sausage fingers in to disconnect from the rail end.

Thanx for the suggestion anyway.





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#4 ChrisG

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 01:42 pm

It should prime as soon as you turn the ignition on, you'll hear it whirr for a second or so. 

 

Has it got a red key?  Might be worth trying that just in case it's something to do with the immobiliser forgetting the key codes.


Edited by ChrisG, 29 March 2016 - 01:43 pm.

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#5 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:00 pm

Nah, pre immobiliser.

That's the point Chris, the pump isn't priming.





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#6 ChrisG

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:47 pm

I assume you've got the manual?  http://fieldscientif...S_2002_Serv.pdfif not

 

The tilt cutout stays active until you reset it with the engine off switch, so if the codes didn't reset when you did that presumably it still thinks it's fallen over.

 

How long does the battery need to be disconnected for the ECU's memory to cleared?


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#7 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:56 pm

Thing is though Chris, it hasn't been over.
Got the battery off and on charge for the day so who knows what will happen now.



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#8 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 04:50 pm

Right, done a bit more.

When trying to start it the eml is flashing, suggesting that the the err 19 and err 30 are causing it to not start as per the diag details

 

Attached File  a.png   201.75KB   0 downloads

 

But still can't seem to clear them.





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#9 TKH

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 05:41 pm

Presume the fuel pump is ok? or the fuel pump connectors?



#10 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 07:03 pm

Well that's the question isn't it.
Can't tell which is the pump power supply and which is the sender unit plug.
If someone could enlighten me I can run 12v to the pump and see if it works.
Green or white plug people?

Edited by celticbiker, 29 March 2016 - 07:04 pm.




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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 07:10 pm

I just looked at the wiring diagram in ChrisG's link.... there doesn't appear to be anything in common between the sidestand switch and the lean angle switch, other than they both connect to the ECU, although, I guess you've had a good look at the ECU connector already.

 

There's also a starting circuit relay, item 13 on page 8-9, which i think is attached to the frame under the tank, if it isn't the small relay next to the ECU....the sidestand switch grounds that relay and provides feedback to the ECU.

 

You're best friend is the diagnostic flowchart in the manual, or measure the voltage at the output of various relevant sensors and switches using the wiring diagram as your guide


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#12 fixitsan

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 07:25 pm

Item 32 is the pump. the plug with a Black and a red/blue wire are the pump control wires....Black should be grounded.

 

From page 7-2 of the manual...

 

 

 

The other plug ;looks like a thermal sensor, or a pump heater....either way a resistance check will hopefully show that it isn't open circuit


Edited by fixitsan, 29 March 2016 - 07:27 pm.

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#13 leehenty

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 07:40 pm

Try looking at engine stop switch it uses this to clear codes, might be dodgy.

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#14 celticbiker

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 08:47 pm

Yeh that's what I was thinking Lee but it checks out OK.
Now I have confirmation of the pump word I'll stick 12v on it and see if it works.
If it does then I have to start looking at the circuit if not then it's the pump.
Simples.



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#15 Rallyist

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 01:33 pm

I had a persistent error 19 and found the group of earth's with a plastic cover over them attached to the loom adjacent to the ECU was corroded once cleaned all OK


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#16 celticbiker

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 02:21 pm

On the list now, thank you.



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#17 celticbiker

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 05:40 pm

Item 32 is the pump. the plug with a Black and a red/blue wire are the pump control wires....Black should be grounded.
 
From page 7-2 of the manual...
 
pump.JPG
 
 
The other plug ;looks like a thermal sensor, or a pump heater....either way a resistance check will hopefully show that it isn't open circuit

That's what I thought, just wanted confirmation really, I'm also more practical than just using a meter, in planning on just applying 12v to the pump if it runs, look elsewhere if not then replace.



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#18 fixitsan

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 07:52 pm

That's what I thought, just wanted confirmation really, I'm also more practical than just using a meter, in planning on just applying 12v to the pump if it runs, look elsewhere if not then replace.

 

 

You can measure the resistance through the pump motor first, to make sure it isn't open circuit.

I would measure the voltage on both sides of the pump when it should be running. If you have 12V on both sides then you have a failed earth. 0V on both sides and it isn't being driven (probably the ECU isn't turning it on because of a pre-existent error code problem)


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#19 leehenty

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 08:01 pm

The ecu controls the fuel pump through a relay might be worth checking.


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#20 celticbiker

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 10:51 pm

That's all good and well Lee but where is the relay?



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