25 replies to this topic

[gozer]

As the bike has stood so long I had to get a new battery before I could try firing it up. Got one at the weekend but bike refuses to start..

I did drain it when I parked it up but now, when trying to start it all I get is cough, pop, fart, splutter, bang. I guess a carb rebuild is the order of the day. I`ve done a few carbs in the past, but not this type before. 

My Q is, what is the best rebuild kit to go for? There seem to be many different ones out there, and is there any merit in going expensive or are the cheaper ones just as good seeing that 99% of them are prolly made in China anyhoo.   Which have you guys used?

All opinions / suggestions gratefully received.

[Pedro]

Before going the full rebuild route, I'd make sure you have fuel(fresh) getting to the carbs. Open the drains and make sure fresh fuel is coming out. Also tap the bowls in case the floats got stuck over time. If it's got a vacuum pump, they're notoriously slow in priming the carbs.

Edited by Pedro, 10 October 2022 - 08:27 pm.

[Snowbird]

Sounds like a TDM blowjob is worth a try, a bit of pressure in the tank by what ever means hits your fetish spot to get the fuel through the system.

[gozer]

Fuel was freshly bought and defiinitely getting to the carbs, I opened the drains as you suggested so that it might flush any little nasties out. I connected an aux fuel tank hung high from the ceiling of the garage as I`ve not flushed the tank yet to make sure there`s no bits in there waiting to cause me problems.

[Pedro]

Have you tried the TDM blow-job? Don't worry, you dont need a "partner" for this . Basically you seal the mouth of the tank with a rag with a pipe sticking out and BLOW! The idea is to prime the carbs without draining the battery first. If still no good, then a carb strip and inspection.

[TDrummer]

92 TDM

Paid a shop to rebuild carbs, rejet, replace emulsion tubes.

2-1 header into ZX14 muffler.

Not enough time/patience to rebuild myself.

Shop got the carbs working great.

[gozer]

OK, I`ve given the bike a vigorous blow job (ahem) and still a pop, fart, bang when trying to start. Just in case, I even swapped the cdi for another known good one that I have and still the same. Looks like the carbs will definitely have to have the spanners taken to them, so I return to my original Q, is it worth the buying expensive bits or are the cheaper ones just as good as most aftermarket bits seem to be punted out of China anyways?

[gozer]

I`ve had another fiddle with it and this time it started. It does run like a bag `o` shite though. Still popping, farting, sitting back through the carbs and will not run at all unless the choke is at least half way on and the lightest of touches to the throttle kills it. Carbs will definately have to come to bits, so, as above, any advice or suggestions on the best rebuild kits that are a good balance of price v quality? All info gratefully received.

[gozer]

Out of interest, would anybody who has removed their carbs tell me where the clamps to the cyl head should be positioned to access the screws. Judging buy the cable / wiring routing, I would say someone has def been in there before.

I took mine off yesterday, what a soddin` faff ! It was impossible to get to the screws without taking the battery box out and then I found that they weren`t screws but small allen heads. I could`ve done with miniature hands to do the job.

Should they be screws, or are the allen heads correct? And should they be able to be undone without battery box removal?

.

[leehenty]

If Allen heads someone has been In before

[Studley Ramrod]

This guy is good for the seals as they're made of Viton which is Ethanol resistant  https://www.litetek....aha_TRX850.html

 

I use  NRP Carbs for the other carb parts.  https://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/

[gozer]

This guy is good for the seals as they're made of Viton which is Ethanol resistant  https://www.litetek....aha_TRX850.html

 

I use  NRP Carbs for the other carb parts.  https://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/

Thanks for the info Studley. I`ve taken a punt on a cheap, full rebuild kit. I think made in China and if it`s only fit as catapult ammo when it comes I won`t have lost a lot. I`ll report back on it when I have had a chance to assess.

 

If Allen heads someone has been In before

I was having a mooch in knowledgebase and read the post about replacing emulsion tubes. It says in there that you need to remove the battery box to get at the inlet stub clamps and says about using a small allen key to undo them, so I guess they must be correct??, or are they??? I got hold of a Haynes, but there`s no ref as to type of screws or how to access them, it just tells you to undo them to remove the carbs.

[dablik]

Cant remember now gozer as i had replaced mine a long time ago, however it does'nt really matter as it's much easier to remove tank, battery and battery box for ample room, i also used to unscrew the idle cable at the carb end (mark it off) to save all the faff of undoing it at the bracket, had mine of so many times that to do all of the above literally took about 10 mins.

 

You can turn and lay the tank on the seat or a small board across the frame to be quicker, maybe hold it in position with a strap.

[Studley Ramrod]

The carb to inlet rubber brackets do indeed have a small allen head screw.

[gozer]

 

 

You can turn and lay the tank on the seat or a small board across the frame to be quicker, maybe hold it in position with a strap.

Bike is already in a squillion pieces

 

The carb to inlet rubber brackets do indeed have a small allen head screw.

Thanks for the confirmation

 

As an aside, what size should the exhaust studs be? I know they`re M8 but what depth? It`s currently got a Predator `zorst on it and that is fixed with allen bolts that look very long to reach from the flange to the head but I`m planning a return to  standard pipes. Also, are brass nuts a good idea to prevent future siezures and can they be done to the correct torque as they are softer material?

[drewpy]

Bike is already in a squillion pieces

 

Thanks for the confirmation

 

As an aside, what size should the exhaust studs be? I know they`re M8 but what depth? It`s currently got a Predator `zorst on it and that is fixed with allen bolts that look very long to reach from the flange to the head but I`m planning a return to  standard pipes. Also, are brass nuts a good idea to prevent future siezures and can they be done to the correct torque as they are softer material?

I use brass nuts and haven't had them come loose on their own in 5 years. nice and easy to undo and still look great too

Can't remember the length of the studs, sorry

[dandywarhol]

Second the Litek stuff - company owned by a Brit in Thailand - excellent service and quality Viton, ethanol proof components

[Studley Ramrod]

Bike is already in a squillion pieces

 

Thanks for the confirmation

 

As an aside, what size should the exhaust studs be? I know they`re M8 but what depth? It`s currently got a Predator `zorst on it and that is fixed with allen bolts that look very long to reach from the flange to the head but I`m planning a return to  standard pipes. Also, are brass nuts a good idea to prevent future siezures and can they be done to the correct torque as they are softer material?

I'd buy oem exhaust studs as they have the correct length of thread that goes into the cyl head. Or at least make sure any aftermarket offerings have the same thread length.

[gozer]

The carb kits arrived. Probably the shoddiest aftermarket part of anything I`ve ever bought. Multiple jets with no sizes marked on them, so any attempt at a setup would be finger in the wind at best. Other bits were very poorly made and had bits of swarf hanging off them. I could go on and on but you`d soon get bored of the rant. Suffice to say, if you are trying to do something on a budget, DO NOT BE TEMPTED BY CHEAP CHINESE CRAP EVEN IF THE QUALITY LOOKS OK, pure waste of time and money. Sent back for refund..

So, I had a look at the NRP website as suggested by Studley and another Q has reared it`s head. It says that the main jet in their kit is a 142, but in Mr Haynes` manual it says it is a 140. Which is correct ? Is one or the other a typo or is there a reason for it? Bearing in mind I`m going to use standard pipes.

Also all the fuel lines have gone rock hard. What do you guys use? Do you go with the plain neoprene type fitted as standard or  go with the braided rubber type stuff? Just wondered as they take quite a twisted route and want to avoid any kinks. And am I right in thinking the ID of the pipe should be 6 mm for the fuel lines?

[Studley Ramrod]

140 is the standard size main jet.  Prolly best to phone them.  iirc the neoprene pipes dont bear up well to ethanol.