282 replies to this topic

[dablik]

daps you'll be pleased to see i revisited the sprocks, one on the right is the current sprock and left is a spare, current looks rounded off somewhat compared to the other, dunno if ya can see on the telling bone !

 

Can i swap the cam sprocks out while clamped to the head off the bike, or best another way ????

 

Also testing the valves for leaks, if they stay dry think i'll leave removing them well alone..

[dapleb]

Can't really tell dabs but again, Unless ewe is hearing a perchunkle I don't see how that is gonna let oubt slip.

Not got books or oubt with me for info on sprock change. Guess it's a problemo of holding em still enough for undo if not connected to borrum end, they is normally plenty tight.

I really think you need someone to have a good look at everything in their mitts. I don't really understand the problem or the cause or . .well anything. Have tried to think about it many a time but it hurts my noggin as I'm sure it has yours.

[dablik]

Haynes just says take em off..... them's on 24nm, i reckon i can shift em wid me big one when it's back on the bike..

[leehenty]

So that exhaust valve could be sticking open slightly ?

[dablik]

So that exhaust valve could be sticking open slightly ?

 

Could be Lee, however it's opening and closing fine now and not leaking either so i think best to leave it alone ! would'nt take me long to pull it though... and i'm gonna have a wait for a gasket, went to order next morning and out of stock already..

[Catteeclan]

Well i pulled the head today and barring one exhaust valve which needed a tiny tap with a bit of wood i've not found anything to explain the problem..

 

Pistons not marked

 

Exhaust valves coking up after 350 miles

 

I can place the exhaust cam in the Cylinder head and rotate the cam shaft so that the timing marks line up with the crankcase, which in turn opens the valves on cylinder 2 ?  cant do that when it's all in situ and of course that wont allow me to set the timing either as too much resistance, i think i may remove the exhaust valves and check out the valve springs, they were re-used as were showing in spec. 

 

Quite confused now actually 

 

 

Just re-reading this.
You had to tap a valve to close it? If so then it def needs to come apart, sounds like it's got a slight bend. With the spring pressure off it should close with tap of the finger, fall closed without the gide seal.

Don't want to be taking this all part again. 

[dablik]

Righto Dave, cheers, in that case i'll check it out, was only the slightest tap and the valves open and close when i work the exhaust cam, was'nt really sure if i should remove it or not but will do it now, would hate to put it together again and redo 

[dablik]

Well here it is, looks straight to me, no V blocks to check of course and it slips in fine with a finger 

 

Spring straight as well but look at the shoite around and on the valve seat.

What's with all the crap, should i consider giving them a light lap with fine only while the heads off, seem to seat fine though and no leaks ??

 

Right while i'm on, guess your getting plenty fed up me of problem by now    but i wanna ask furra opinion on this.

 

That's the resting position of the cams set on cylinder 1, same when in situ on the bike.....if my memory serves me right it's usual for the Ex cam to line up parallel without too much agro and the Inlet needs a little help !!!

 

Cant see why it should be an issue anyway but feel when the chain and cct are in place it's part of the problem of the crank moving a bit, just trying to work it out in me head..

 

Also i'm thinking of setting the timing up with a replacement cct but using the old gasket 1st to see how it pans out...good idea or am i looking for gremlins re-using the old gasket for a practice run ?? have to wait for the new one anyway...

 

Will also be checking the crankcase bolts are tight and not helping a small movement..

 

Sorry chaps, give ya something to think about before the footy tonight.... kiss..kiss

[Studley Ramrod]

From memory, both cams need moving slightly to line up the timing, ala 2 screwdrivers, so neither would quite line up when resting. And, the crank would move if you didn't have a hold on the 2 camshafts whilst inserting the CCT.

 

Could it be the shim bucket digging in slightly and going off centre ?  Have you got a spare valve stem oil seal ?  Just wondering if yours cudda split or not plopped on squarely, causing the crud ?  Seems a fair bit of crud after only 250 miles, but I haven't seen any others having done that mileage and it might be normal.  Did you forget to lap it ?

[Snowbird]

Is the guide absolutely clear through it? No carbon build up or anything that could grab when warmed up, the valve will likely be hotter than the guide when running so needs to be able expand a wee bit.

Worth checking the bucket glides in smoothly with no valve in there so it gets full travel.

When you lap it it's best to finish by a thin smear of marking blue on the valve and rotate it on the seat to make sure it's evenly seating.

[dablik]

From memory, both cams need moving slightly to line up the timing, ala 2 screwdrivers, so neither would quite line up when resting. And, the crank would move if you didn't have a hold on the 2 camshafts whilst inserting the CCT.

 

Could it be the shim bucket digging in slightly and going off centre ?  Have you got a spare valve stem oil seal ?  Just wondering if yours cudda split or not plopped on squarely, causing the crud ?  Seems a fair bit of crud after only 250 miles, but I haven't seen any others having done that mileage and it might be normal.  Did you forget to lap it ?

 

So i wont worry about alignment of the cams because i'm sure on occasion i have moved both as you say...

Cam caps will be torqued up proper.

 

Re shim bucket, yes, had one binding slightly but that was on the Inlet side, replaced with a spare of same size, no digging in but would'nt sit without pressure so swapped out.

No spare stem seal but visibly it looks good, can actually check it's sitting on properly as have the little gadget to seat them..

 

Does seem a bit cruddy for 350 miles to me but also cant compare from a before and after..

 

I did'nt lap the valves in at rebuild because when i had the head at the engineers he was adamant they woul'nt need it after vacuum testing for leaks, think maybe i should of now..

Is the guide absolutely clear through it? No carbon build up or anything that could grab when warmed up, the valve will likely be hotter than the guide when running so needs to be able expand a wee bit.

Worth checking the bucket glides in smoothly with no valve in there so it gets full travel.

When you lap it it's best to finish by a thin smear of marking blue on the valve and rotate it on the seat to make sure it's evenly seating.

 

Guide is clear through Dave, can see it no problem but got brushes furra clean, valve seems to slide just fine, needs a finger push cos the oil stem seal is in-situ, also have a spare set of valves.

 

The bucket for this guide glides well and rotates without a hitch, see above for another bucket, not checked it without the valves in though, can try that...

 

Gotcha on the blue, or i'll use a marker pen which seems to work okay........cheers.

Edited by dablik, 18 June 2021 - 04:21 pm.

[Catteeclan]

Don't know if you're tried this already but drop the valve in the head, hold it just off closed and rotate. could also try with the bucket. Might show something. Something must have caused it to stick open.

[dablik]

Don't know if you're tried this already but drop the valve in the head, hold it just off closed and rotate. could also try with the bucket. Might show something. Something must have caused it to stick open.

 

[dablik]

All back together, now sorted, running at idle and carbs synced, test ride to come..

[Studley Ramrod]

Well done Dabs. Got there in the end eh.

[dablik]

Cheers Ian, yep all good at idle, but more disaster as mentioned in the E10 thread..

[Catteeclan]

Great news.

[dapleb]

Whawassithendabs?

[dablik]

Whawassithendabs?

 

Not sure daps !! but removing then lapping the exhaust valves and exchanging the CCT seems to have fixed whatever issue i had. Maybe did'nt need to pull the head ?????

[Favs]

Yahoooo - fixed

Gorra get up, gorra head-out on the highway