258 replies to this topic

[fixitsan]

826ohms from battery cable to ground with battery removed.... Is that an issue?

 

is that from battery positive or -ve ?

 

If thats from battery +ve and the keyswitch is off that's a big problem !

 

If thats from battery -ve to ground then thats a ground wire fault

Edited by fixitsan, 01 June 2016 - 06:26 pm.

[alexk243]

826ohms from battery cable to ground goes to no connection when regulator is removed... So the connection to ground is in the regulator... Is that ok?

No connection to ground on positive cable with regulator removed. Also no connection to ground on any of the white stator wires.
From positive battery cable
Key switched on, battery removed, starter solenoid removed, one prong on positive cable, one on negative = continuity ( connection ).... That does not seem right
Ok, May have found it... Key switched on, battery removed, solenoid removed, prong on positive and negative battery cable WITH REGULATOR REMOVED = continuity.... So there must be a short on red cable from regulator to battery, right?

[fixitsan]

Ok, May have found it... Key switched on, battery removed, solenoid removed, prong on positive and negative battery cable WITH REGULATOR REMOVED = continuity.... So there must be a short on red cable from regulator to battery, right?

 

 

It doesn't explain 10V from the stator with the plug removed from the regulator...or was the regulator still in circuit when you tested the stator output Ac voltage ?

 

If you measured 10V from the stator with the regulator connected, then a short in the regulator output wire (red wire) to ground would explain the low stator voltage.....

[alexk243]

The short appears to be between the battery cable and the regulator on the red line

[fixitsan]

The same red wire also goes to the kill switch *via the main 30A fuse*.... I would pull the fuse and test again to be sure. On my mk1 the main fuse has been bypassed, I wonder if the fuse holder has a shorting problem ? Also the kill switch might be shorting (but that would presumably blow the fuse, so stick with your gut and the red regulator wire

[alexk243]

Fuse removed, key on, short is between one side of fuse. No more short in positive battery cable, so I'm assuming the short is between regulator and 30a fuse...

 

Top side of fuse for 30a has the short, short still at red on regulator cable (regulator disconnected). Does pulling the 30a fuse and the short being on the top eliminate the kill switch as being part of the short?

Edited by alexk243, 01 June 2016 - 06:57 pm.

[alexk243]

Nevermind, I think I answered my own question. If I have continuity on the side of the short (fuse box 30a fuse location) and the regulator then the kill switch is not in that circuit, correct?

[alexk243]

Why does turning the Key on effect this short?

[fixitsan]

Why does turning the Key on effect this short?

 

when the key is switched on other electronic devices are connected to the battery +ve lead, and in turn they leak current to ground through their internal components

 

Just setting the kill switch to off should isolate everything after the kill switch (including the ignition switch)

 

With the kill switch off, the main fuse out, the battery off and the regulator unplugged there should be a very high resistance (infinity) between the red battery +ve terminal and ground (The same for the red regulator wire and the black, -ve, battery wire)

[alexk243]

With the key on?
With the key off there is no continuity to the ground on the red line...

This led me to test the key. Key off no continuity between any of the 3 on that harness (blue, red, Brown).

Key on: red to Brown continuity, red to blue continuity, blue to Brown continuity.

[alexk243]

Does this indicate failure in the ignition switch?

[alexk243]

Digging deeper, Brown and blue have short on fuse side of ignition switch (main switch), red only showed a short when key was on. Pulling the fuses does nothing to the short. Removing the dash bring the continuity (between brown and ground) down to 25ohms... Is that acceptable?
 

Edited by alexk243, 01 June 2016 - 09:28 pm.

[alexk243]

Resistance between Blue and Black on Dash is about 16ohms, is that acceptable?

[fixitsan]

I wouldn't get distracted with that unless you're sure you have a short on the red wire from the regulator sorted out.

 

You have to stick with it and be methodical. When you turn the ignition on the ignition cdi unit is switched onto the battery line and power leaks through there (resistance to ground will drop)

 

I didn't get an answer from you about the voltage from the stator when it is disconnected from the regulator, and the engine is running - if you can confirm that voltage first is above 15V, then you know that it is capable of supplying the regulator with what it needs to regulate.

Edited by fixitsan, 01 June 2016 - 09:55 pm.

[alexk243]

Just ran it after putting everything together. The stator output is about 12v-30v AC depending on the RPM. 

 

When ignition switch is off there is no short in red wire, so must be on other side (brown or blue), which lead me nowhere... 

 

Short on brown (ignition disconnected) was not effected by removing fuses. The only thing that I was able to do that effected it was remove the dash wiring and it went from open circuit to 25ohms resistance. 

 

Not sure where to go from here...

 

It is together again and running, slight rev gets the battery voltage to 13-14v, but idle is around 12.3v and dropping with the headlights on. (holds around 12.5v with headlights off)

[fixitsan]

The stator voltage seems low at idle. The regulator needs an input voltage which is a volt or two higher than the output voltage.

If it were me i would put the battery on a charger now and contact whoever sold me the stator. You seem to have sorted a problem out along the way.


On your model do the lights run all the time normally ? That would explain some of what you're describing as 'a short' because you'll be measuring the resistance of the bulbs

[Bjørge]

The stator voltage seems low at idle. The regulator needs an input voltage which is a volt or two higher than the output voltage.

 

Not neccesarily - it is a sine wave shaped voltage with an RMS (Root Mean Square) value value of 12V. Peak voltage = 12V * root(2) = 16.97V.

This is enough for charging at idle. Charging will happen in shortish pulses - only when output voltage exceeds battery voltage + min. regulator voltage drop.

[fixitsan]

Not neccesarily - it is a sine wave shaped voltage with an RMS (Root Mean Square) value value of 12V. Peak voltage = 12V * root(2) = 16.97V.
This is enough for charging at idle. Charging will happen in shortish pulses - only when output voltage exceeds battery voltage + min. regulator voltage drop.

Yes i know that already, but comparing to mine and others which output 20V at idle, when there is solid regulation at all times, , 12V seems unusually low

Edited by fixitsan, 02 June 2016 - 06:11 am.

[alexk243]

The lights on mine can be shut off, it had the switch from Euro models.

So that AC voltage coming out of the stator is too low?
This is the stator I installed https://www.amazon.c...a_KLfuxbH4Z23H3

[fixitsan]

It should work. I also have a BMW f650 stator and have no problems.

Then again mine is a 900 so no point in making a direct comparison ...

Maybe you can run it and see how it goes if you're getting a good voltage now when the revs rise