892 replies to this topic

[dablik]

Not captive daps, well only when the rotor is attached    prolly fell out when dismantled, an i wudn go brevitin though, ya got no chance i reckon of finding oneadem, got it sorted now cheers, Fowlers are back order BUT Fowlers Ebay list it for a transmission shaft thrust washer for the likes of fj1200 and xjr 1300 plus superten 750 for the same washer in the same place as tdm, so it's sonme

 

Not gettin anywhere fast buildin this booger.. anudder setback today..

[dapleb]

Wassup dabbers?

[dablik]

Borrowed a big torque wrench of Aircooled 30-200 Nm, went to tighten the big end bolts at initial 45 Nm an i thought bugger me this seems tight, no clickey clickey innit, so took it out to try on a car wheel nut and it's tightening me nuts at 30Nm without a clickey clickey (and them is at 90Nm) the lock onnit is playin up abit, could be cos it's new, gonna have a fiddle diddle after dins and try it again on the car, he's not used it since he bought it...

 

I want the conrods on before i start stickin all the other gubbins in the motor cos it seems to me crankshaft needs lining up to then get the balancer shaft lioned up an all...

[Snowbird]

If they've been way overtweeked I'd be tempted to replace bolts and nuts, just a smeg over and I wouldn't worry about it but crack off (no not like that you filthy minded peasants!) and re-torque before putting engine stress through them.

[dablik]

Okay PANIC OVER, ignore above, been back out to the car and ran it up and down the torque scale up to 90Nm so that's 12 of me nut's loosened off and tightened back to torque, the lock is the pull out and snap back in type and it was really quite stiff but got it freed up and working nice and smooth now, might explain it as it's not been used from new before hand...

 

Yep Snowbird i'm with you all the way, was plastigauging the new big end bearings using the old bolts and nuts, got all new waiting ready to go on, i know some peeps re-use them but them's are stretch bolts so i agree with you :good:and i cracked em off right away..

Edited by dablik, 10 September 2019 - 06:13 pm.

[dapleb]

Sounds loike it's a norbar (or rebadgered norbar). Exactly why to exercise them before use.

Keep going dabbers.

[dablik]

Na it's a er, er Skandia !!! prolly fell off the back of a lorry thought them was trucks  but clickiting lubberly now..

[dapleb]

Ahh rebranded britool then!!

[Snowbird]

Luckily for me we have a clibrated torque meter at work to check before critical use, torque wrenches can be very variable in reliability, besides it only takes a different grade of lube on a thread to throw the final torque off.

[dablik]

So i understand, but beggars cant be choosers in my case, now it's clickiting nicely and i have a nice feel furrit, 50/50 mix on them bolts..

[Favs]

Anyone (remember), or got, a bendy torque wrench?
Glad you're sorted.
Sorry for a bit off topic.

Edited by Favs, 11 September 2019 - 08:21 am.

[dapleb]

Yeah, like the Lille tohnichi and similar. Still part of the dealership required tools for some where click&cam not suitable. Used alot on gearbox burrings and aloike. Toyota GT 86 fur example.

Good accuracy if not abused!!

[dablik]

Having a few issues lining up the stopper spring and stopper arm fo the drum selector, this is a mk2a gearbox in a mk1 crankcase,

This a mk1 spring and stopper arm

 20190911_171323.jpg   122.93KB   0 downloads

 20190911_171400.jpg   136.98KB   0 downloads

 

Mk2

 20190911_170951.jpg   110.41KB   0 downloads

 20190911_171342.jpg   150.89KB   0 downloads

 

So as you can see the mk1 spring sits nicely against the stop and the stopper arm retains the spring on the right hand side, while the mk2 spring is a different shape, it's bent (straight according to fiche) but the stopper arm retains the spring on the left side !!

Also the mk2 spring is wider by a few mm where it sits on it's stop so that makes a difference when fitting, i've tried a few ways using mk1, mk2 bits together but it's locking up the drum selector, dogs on the input shaft are in neutral on the drum and the output shaft dogs are waggling in the air..the dogleg shaft for the output ( 2 dogs) has a spring on the mk1 but not on mk2, i wonder if this will make any difference to gear change !!

 

Wondering now if this washer/spacer (middle in pic) should'nt be on the inside of the bolt for the stopper arm, i did try it but drum is still locking up when it's all bolted...

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Any piccies of said parts on a mk2 would be helpful, Haynes only shows mk1 fitting and have me own photo's but mk2 gubbins looks a but queer

 

Mk2 spring looks straight here, so have i got a bent mk2 bit ? the spring leg where the number 14 is on mine is bent.

 mk2a shift cam and fork.png   41.18KB   0 downloads

 

Right then just found a real live piccie, i have a bent part which is normal, so how the fook does this fit then, cant imagine the c.case is any different !!

 Gnmoto 2001 gears.jpg   297.65KB   0 downloads

 

.

Edited by dablik, 11 September 2019 - 08:12 pm.

[dablik]

Been having a dabble and this is the only way i can make this work, somehow though it does'nt seem to be right.

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[Catteeclan]

Looks like the spring's the wrong way round. The roller on the end of the lever should be pushing against the cylinder. Think the lever could be the wrong way round too.
It'll prob be a bitch to load when you get it right due to the spring tension.

Edited by Catteeclan, 12 September 2019 - 05:44 am.

[dablik]

The spring wont seat the other way around Dave, if i turn it around the leg of the spring when spun about prevents the spring sitting on it's perch, the lever i suppose could be either way around as it's only the roller which needs to contact the drum.

 

Below is the original mk1 gubbins when i took it apart, so i'm using this as a reference.

This photo is the proper way up also. all the others are upside down as the c.case is.

 20190609_145410 - Copy.jpg   112.85KB   0 downloads

[dablik]

Well changed things around a lot today, tried the mk1 drum selector, spring and arm also the forks shaft, output shaft in an out a zillion times.

 

The main issue now as i seem to have it seated okay is that according to Haynes the roller is not sitting in the neutral detent on the drum, all the gears rorotate fine but the fork action seems stiff and tight, perhaps i need to pull the output shaft and recheck it over.

 

This is the latest, look at the photo in the previous post and all is in order ie neutral detent is detented, whereas in this one it's one detent below neutral ??

 20190912_131004.jpg   133.02KB   0 downloads

 

Cant quite make the neutral detent here.

 20190912_144017.jpg   138.2KB   0 downloads

 

Over the years i came across a lot of posts where this upgrade was mentioned by numerous people, but cant find much in the way of any evidence, so if somebody knows where i can find some relevant info to this mod let me know please, of course it's quite likely i'm a nob and the issue is of my own making

[dablik]

Now fits loike a glove, all dismantled and remantled

[Snowbird]

Nice one! What were you doing wrong?

[Favs]

Veritas mantler par excellance