37 replies to this topic

[Stratman]

Glad its all sorted now!

[Nanook]

Lads,

I'm not really happy with the snatchy throttle at town speeds on my 08 900. I've had the airbox mod done but that didn't seem to make much difference. I'm now wondering if a Power Commander is the way forward. Any views?

On top of this my idle speed wouldn't drop below 2400rpm as I mentioned in another thread. My dealer has done a warranty job on the bike and found that the fast idle plunger was faulty. They ordered one from Yamaha and were told that it wasn't supplied as a separate part and that the whole throttle body assembly would need to be replace.......about 1000 fecking UK pounds lads. Glad it was covered under warranty. Anyway, it cured the idle rpm issue and, into the bargain, it has virtually got rid of the snatchy throttle. So I'm a happy bunny again. And, in my new job here http://www.cairngormmountain.co.uk/, I get to ride up and down the ski road twice a day Happy days are here again

[AzzA]

Aussie9 and Nanook,

glad you're both happy with the fixes.

Aussie9,

it'd be great if you could give us a line or two about the cruise control when you're back from the big trip... I've been looking sideways at them for a while, I've got Melbourne to Perth planned for next year. Return!! So a good working cruise control would be very welcome, even if it is the best chunk of a thousand dollars.

Cheers,
AzzA

[DevoTDM]

Aussie 9,

Is it the mccruise cruise control you fitted? Did you fit it yourself? Any issues fitting it?

I'm interested as I live in Broken Hill and it's a long, straight ride to get anywhere. My wrist was the worse-for-wear after the ride from Horsham to Broken Hill. I've been using a throttle rest but I find it gets in the way on occassion.

[aussie9]

Yes the cruise is an MCcruise. These systems are designed for specific models and as such are plug and play.
Brothers Frank and Tony Guymer (developers and manufacturers of MCcruise) both are long time riders.
Tony rides a TDM900 and all the development for this kit was done on his bike.
Truely plug and play, with a little bit of adjustment on the throttle cables as you fit the cable interface unit. 4 and a half hours from lifting the tank to going up the road to calibrate and road test.
I was just amazed at how easy it all went together and how well its works.
I have been able to adjust the sensitivity accurately enough so its works from 50kph upwards. No surging!
I think that in the fitting I spent more time reading the instructions than actually fitting components and tying in the wiring loom.
I have a Healtech speedo healer fitted (once again a great product that is just plug and play) and this made no difference to connecting in the speed sensor wire.
The only down side is the slight loss of storage space under the seat where the computer now resides.
I have previously used the Univsta cruise and throttle aid/rocker/palm rest or whatever you want to call 'em. Never again. After just 1 week I will fit one of these to every bike I ever own. Mind you, I think I'll have this TDM forever!

Check out their website http://www.motorcycl...se-control.com/

The demand for their product is pretty high at the moment so even us Aussies have to wait 7-10 days. The kits are built to order.
If you have ever wired up your own driving lights, or fitted heated grips or done your own shim adjustments then I believe you are capable of fitting one of these kits. The instructions are very comprehensive.
Nothing is left to chance.

The quality of the kit and the effectiveness of the end product justifies the price. 10/10

Several riders have already said to me they would rather buy a cheap car type unit instead. One local FJR1300 owner did just that and regretted it. No matter what he did it was not able to cruise smoothly or safely. Four weeks later he splashed out on the MCcruise cursing the $500 (including labour) he wasted on the cheaper unit. nuff said.

Frank and Tony know their stuff. Any problems, phone them up. They value your business and will always talk to you.

[alloypiston]

Aussie9,
Did you keep the TPS at 19-100 or did you revert back to 15/16-97,
Thanks,
AW

All my tuning issues have finally been resolved.
As reported earlier the TPS was replaced as it was giving unreliable readings. Everything was good for 10 days then even more problems arose.
Cold starts had one cylinder dropping out. Intermittently until it thoroughly warmed up, about 15 minutes. After 5 days of this bull***t behaviour it lost one cylinder totally. FARRRRROUT!!!!!
The weekend came around and the new cruise control had arrived too. OK, replace the spark plugs and fit the cruise. Should be easy.
Removed the side panels and started the bike.

BINGO!!!
No1 high tension lead was arching (10mm out from coil) to the frame causing the miss-fire. This is a bloody new bike!
Well this one will be replaced under warranty for sure. I removed the coil and wound ample quantities of electrical insulation around the offending lead and refitted. No more miss-fire and the bike sounded smoother than it had ever before. Hooray, the problem was finally solved. This faulty coil may have been the cause of the problems right from the start.

The fitting of the electronic cruise control went as planned. Sorry guys, no pics, the camera was being recharged. The whole system is plug and play. I was road testing 4 hours later and the bike is running beautifully and the cruise is fantastic. They may be pricey, but to me it's worth every penny.

The CO's are now set at 0 and +6. Everything now feels as it should. Easy starts, smooth and torquey from 1800rpm and first weekend out with the cruise control returned 23km/l traveling 2up, only using 100kmh though.
My loss of confidence has been restored and just in the nick of time. Mid July is 4500km in 5days to QLD's Sunshine coast and back.

I am really looking forward to this trip now!

[aussie9]

Went back to 15-97 with the unfounded belief that it may help the bottom of the rev range..now its working I can't be bothered to try 19-100 just for the sake of it.
The faulty coil was probably the main cause all along, but the TPS was giving dud readings too. I just started looking in the wrong place.
Hind sight is wonderful.

[Orsoncarts]

Hi Guy's, My first proper post......Had my new 900 about amonth now, done the first 600, fitted a pair of Beowulfs, so loud I had to leave the baffles in.!!!!!!and it still scares dogs!!!
Had the first service done at Poole Yamaha and the airbox mod , thing is the bike is better but still snatchy at 2500-3000, sort of ruins an ace bike really, now I'm no mechanic at all.........so how do I take the the slack out of the throttle, cos I'm hoping this may help .........Don't want to appear thick, but as I said I am no mechanic......And is it a case of trial and error with setting the CO2 thingies or is there a sort of general setup you guys use when your running cans.........Any help would be great..
Brilliant Site by the way...

[Toraneko]

BINGO!!!
No1 high tension lead was arching (10mm out from coil) to the frame causing the miss-fire. This is a bloody new bike!
Well this one will be replaced under warranty for sure. I removed the coil and wound ample quantities of electrical insulation around the offending lead and refitted. No more miss-fire and the bike sounded smoother than it had ever before. Hooray, the problem was finally solved. This faulty coil may have been the cause of the problems right from the start.

I've noticed recently that the leads from the coils on 9'ers are positioned in such a way that they get crushed between the plastic side covers & the metal frame.
See piccies below. Not sure if MK1 & 2's are similar or not ?
Seems a pretty ridiculous design flaw for Yamaha to make so me thinks it may be a way of helping boost service & parts revenue ?
Here's a little preventative mod to HOPEFULLY stop ignition coil leads arcing, shorting out & causing further problems.


All you need to do is get some high density self adhesive foam rubber. ( I got mine from "The Purple Pig" where all nice rubber goods are sold )
Stick it to the frame on both sides like below.






Did I mention you should mark either side of each coil lead on both side covers before you take them off ?

Then carefully file out ( scallop ) between the marks to give a couple of mm more space for the leads.



Now they're spaced away from the frame & shouldn't get pinched anymore.

Hope that's useful gents.

[aussie9]

Thanks Shane, great tip.
My HT leads have not been squeezed and have no marks showing, but I'll be adding extra insulation anyway.

[SteveAussieTDM900]

What is a TPS????

- other than a report that needs a new cover sheet, I mean.

Throttle Position Sensor?

Edited by SteveAussieTDM900, 08 July 2009 - 04:13 am.

[AzzA]

...
Did I mention you should mark either side of each coil lead on both side covers before you take them off ?

Then carefully file out ( scallop ) between the marks to give a couple of mm more space for the leads.



Now they're spaced away from the frame & shouldn't get pinched anymore.

Hope that's useful gents.

Shane,

I haven't had the need to take my side covers off yet but, would placing extra spacers (of about 5mm) on the black rubber buttons (in the picture) give enough stand-off without the need for surgery? I'm guessing there'd be enough flex in the plastic panels to cope.

Cheers,
AzzA

[Toraneko]

Shane,

I haven't had the need to take my side covers off yet but, would placing extra spacers (of about 5mm) on the black rubber buttons (in the picture) give enough stand-off without the need for surgery? I'm guessing there'd be enough flex in the plastic panels to cope.

Cheers,
AzzA

Not a bad thought. I'd reckon a 3mm spacer would be enough. I'd still put the rubber ( or similar ) behind the coil leads as well though.