188 replies to this topic

[Moose]

that would be me =)
sending you a pm

From what i saw you might wanna stick a cuppla cannon balls on the bottom, might last ya a bit longer ya loon

JG, I can get to you as early as ya like, bacon is good for me whatever time of day I'll get the carb kit and might as well change the lot while we're in there if thats ok

Cheers for the cool down info, makes sense when ya fink about it so luckily

Cheers

Moose

[Moose]

Moose, your gonna need to allow time for the engine to cool down completely before you can check the valves. So, you might find your gonna be pushed for time if your also balancing yer carbies. It's definitely dooable though ! (in an ideal world !)
My Yam dealer gave my bike about 4 hours to allow it to cool down.
Anytime you have access to the carbs, is a good time to swap yer tubes.
You should only need to get the emulsion tubes, but you might need some new float bowl gaskets, depending...http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3ca57f6e82

Or order direct from straightline racing.

I know it sounds like a kop out cheap bar steward option but is there a cheaper option as with all that it's looking to out price the value of my bike

Cheers

Moose

[TonyDevil]

if the carbs havent been apart since new i would replace the floatbowl gaskets as you'll only have to go back and sort it out later when it starts leaking petrol all over the place

£40ish for emulsion tubes
£25ish for carb & airbox rubbers
£10ish for floatbowl gaskets
and a few sprays of carb cleaner

sorry i wont be able to make the fettling day

[Moose]

if the carbs havent been apart since new i would replace the floatbowl gaskets as you'll only have to go back and sort it out later when it starts leaking petrol all over the place

£40ish for emulsion tubes
£25ish for carb & airbox rubbers
£10ish for floatbowl gaskets
and a few sprays of carb cleaner

sorry i wont be able to make the fettling day

Gonna be busy trying to grind the rest of ya hero blobs down?

Might have to just balance the carbs then til i can fund the parts, Xmas coming up and 3 demanding kids

Moose

[TonyDevil]

i know i have atleast 1 set of spare carb rubbers in my box'o'bits and i gotta do tha 'toobs' on me TRX this week, so once thats out the way i may be able to send you a set

hows ya maths?
when i did the carb service thing on my TDM i gained an extra 10% on my mpg, 30% on my XTZ and expecting similar back from my TRX
work out the mileage you do and see how long it would take to save your money

[Moose]

i know i have atleast 1 set of spare carb rubbers in my box'o'bits and i gotta do tha 'toobs' on me TRX this week, so once thats out the way i may be able to send you a sethows ya maths?when i did the carb service thing on my TDM i gained an extra 10% on my mpg, 30% on my XTZ and expecting similar back from my TRXwork out the mileage you do and see how long it would take to save your money

When it comes to baking cakes it's spot on otherwise i'm ficker than the tread on my tyres

Moose

if the carbs havent been apart since new i would replace the floatbowl gaskets as you'll only have to go back and sort it out later when it starts leaking petrol all over the place£40ish for emulsion tubes£25ish for carb & airbox rubbers£10ish for floatbowl gasketsand a few sprays of carb cleanersorry i wont be able to make the fettling day

Are those the tubes that go from inside the airbox and fit on the top of the carbs?

Moose

Edited by Moose, 20 October 2009 - 03:58 pm.

[TonyDevil]

with a little artistic license...
assuming £20 a week fuel and with a 20% saving it would take roughly 3months to break even

airbox rubbers fit inside the airbox and attach to top of carbs
carb rubbers are between the engine and carbs
you may find they are fine, if they arent cracked at all just hard put them in hot water to soften em up and then refit
if they are cracked they'll eventually leak air/fuel

[Moose]

airbox rubbers fit inside the airbox and attach to top of carbs
carb rubbers are between the engine and carbs
you may find they are fine, if they arent cracked at all just hard put them in hot water to soften em up and then refit
if they are cracked they'll eventually leak air/fuel

The Rubbers from airbox to carbs were a little hard about 3 months ago so like ya say i put them in hot water and refitted them and they were fine and no cracks

Think we'll just go with the balancing for now and then do the rest when i can get some sheckles together

Cheers for ya help

Moose

[JollyGiant]

you may find they are fine, if they arent cracked at all just hard put them in hot water to soften em up and then refit
if they are cracked they'll eventually leak air/fuel

I stuck mine in hot water and they fitted better after than they ever did before!!

If they are cracked smear some clear mastic over the cracks and it fills them and they'll be fine Did this on my old GPZ and they were ok for 3yrs before I sold it

[TDMTAM]

I stuck mine in hot water and they fitted better after than they ever did before!!

If they are cracked smear some clear mastic over the cracks and it fills them and they'll be fine Did this on my old GPZ and they were ok for 3yrs before I sold it

I used to use Silkolene Pro-Prep on the old YPVS inlets, it seemed to rejuvenate them.
TAM

Edited by TDMTAM, 20 October 2009 - 04:34 pm.

[TonyDevil]

I stuck mine in hot water and they fitted better after than they ever did before!!

If they are cracked smear some clear mastic over the cracks and it fills them and they'll be fine Did this on my old GPZ and they were ok for 3yrs before I sold it

i think you should change your name to Jolly Bodger

[JollyGiant]

i think you should change your name to Jolly Bodger

I used to be known as "Billy Bodger"?? Yeah I have always fixed my bikes with the least amount of money possible! If not for free...

[Studley Ramrod]

The Rubbers from airbox to carbs were a little hard about 3 months ago so like ya say i put them in hot water and refitted them and they were fine and no cracks

Think we'll just go with the balancing for now and then do the rest when i can get some sheckles together

Cheers for ya help

Moose

It's the 'unknown' extras that you may or may not need that needs to be accounted for. So a £40 tube swap becomes a potential £80 swap. BUT it makes sense to wait until you can afford to buy the lot should you need to.

JG, there's no real difference in the mk1 and mk2 carbies, fitting the tubes in both is an identical jobbie as such.

On the subject of cost, Wemoto prices seem to be getting up there. If you needed 10 valve shims you'd be looking at nearly £90 !!!! YES £90 !
That means I made a profit buying a head for £50 as the shims are worth £90 crayzeee hehe

Might be an idea to buy them tubes sooner rather than later as a) they might go up in price and b) they could run out of stock AGAIN ! 4 month waiting time.

Edited by Studley Ramrod, 20 October 2009 - 09:50 pm.

[Kaustic]

Kaustic could those Ti thingys be used as sliders on me boots??

If you can find a way to attach them , then yes I suppose. You could drill and counter sink a hole through the center but they are only 5 mm thick. Ill grap a couple more tomorrow.

k

[Kaustic]

If they are cracked smear some clear mastic over the cracks and it fills them and they'll be fine Did this on my old GPZ and they were ok for 3yrs before I sold it

When I had problems with cold running last year I had a look at the rubbers, there was some signs of cracking so I used super glue and black kitchen sealant which is what I had available. at the time.

[JollyGiant]

When I had problems with cold running last year I had a look at the rubbers, there was some signs of cracking so I used super glue and black kitchen sealant which is what I had available. at the time.

The only prob with super glue is it's brittle and melts rubber/plastic!! But if it worked it another great bodging fixing idea

[harvey krumpet]

Any of you guys fancy popping down here for a weekend of fettling, cake & barbecues? I'm jealous!

[ChrisG]

JG, there's no real difference in the mk1 and mk2 carbies, fitting the tubes in both is an identical jobbie as such.

The Mk2a (ie the one with a fuel gauge and digital dash) has different carbs though and you can't change the tubes on them.

Whoever it was mentioned the damping on each fork leg being different, it probably means you've got more oil in one side than the other, which in turn probably means a leaking seal. You can check the oil level fairly easily (fork off bike job but not too hard), and can change the seals with a bit of inginuity, but if the seals have gone I'd personally change the bushes as well which is a bit more tricky.

[Kaustic]

Whoever it was mentioned the damping on each fork leg being different, it probably means you've got more oil in one side than the other, which in turn probably means a leaking seal. You can check the oil level fairly easily (fork off bike job but not too hard), and can change the seals with a bit of inginuity, but if the seals have gone I'd personally change the bushes as well which is a bit more tricky.

Hi

(Model Mk2a)
I THINK the problem lies with the rebound damping adjuster on one fork leg only. The setting is done by a number of clicks from fully in. I double check that I set them both the same whenever I change them. I think that over a period of time (weeks ? ) the adjuster on one side is jumping out of position. The effect is quite unpleasant .

I reset them at the weekend & will give it a while & recheck again to confirm my hypothesis when it starst to feel all wrong againl .


k