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3vd Engine Rebuild


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#21 danbara

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 12:04 pm

what is the size of conrod and crankshaft shells

I can't find the size anywhere, in service manual and parts catalog there are only colors but no sizes sad.gif

#22 dapleb

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 12:41 pm

You won't. There are only the colours used to represent sizes. And the list of which colours to jump to in order to jump up/down a size. Obviously when they left the factory they were issued with the correct colour dependent on clearance, so wan enjun will vary from the next. This is all great fun after many thousand miles of use and being colour blind....stunningly dumb idea. Though you can also calculate size if the colour is not clear on the shell. You subtract the number on the conrod from some other number (printed on the case) and it gives you the numberical code for the colour...simple really. laugh.gif

Do you plan on plastiguaging the shells or just using the orig colours?
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#23 danbara

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 01:31 pm

I am planing to send crankshaft to machining company so they will fix it if it is possible, otherwise new crank is the only way sad.gif

the problem is that it is almost impossible to find second hand crank in good condition.

#24 danbara

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:06 am

I made little query about crank an bearing and i noticed that xtz 750 and tdm 850 3vd have the same shells, mains and big ends, what brought me to conclusion that it should be the same crank

am I right or not?

( i can find xtz crank but tdm is not on the market at the moment )

Edited by danbara, 07 June 2010 - 07:07 am.


#25 steveearwig

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 10:34 am

Sadly it doesn't look like it. No Haynes here but a brief search says... you'll end up with an 800...
XTZ 750 - 87x63mm = 749.1cc
TDM 850 - 89.5x67.5 mm = 849.3cc

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#26 steveearwig

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 10:42 am

Seeing as how TDMs seem to be a little thin on the ground in this part of the world. did you try bike breakers in the UK? (possibly a daft question but I'm sitting here looking at an enquiry form)
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#27 danbara

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 04:14 pm

yes i did but shipping would cost fortune. xtz 750 crankshaft should be the same, and I found one on e-bay for 130 euro

anyway i will first try with machining the crankshaft

#28 steveearwig

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 05:28 pm

Got your pm - I'll get my wife to translate it later hidden.gif

It's the 4.5mm shorter stroke I question, you'll loose compression as well as capacity. But perhaps considering the quality of the fuel here...

I wouldn't think there'd be any problem with the balance shaft as you're using the same pistons.

By the way my brother is coming by car to Croatia from the UK at the end of next month and he'll already be loaded with TDM parts...

Edited by steveearwig, 07 June 2010 - 07:29 pm.

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#29 danbara

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 06:50 am

xtz has shorter conrods then tdm since the cylinder is shorter,

sorry for croatian language in pm since i thought you are croatian

if u'r brother could arrange tdm's crankshaft for a reasonable price i would be interested in it

since i live quite close to you i could even come and pick it up ( and we could have couple of beer's )

#30 steveearwig

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 04:04 pm

It's all in the stroke (piston travels a greater distance on the TDM)

Kužim skoro sve ali samo trebam jednu rijeć i onda pizdarija.... Anyway, I thought you were an expat like me as your written English is so good ph34r.gif

My brother organising anything to do with a motorbike? I'd like to see that! It would be better to talk to my father (in my avatar). I'll start filling in some forms, sending some emails, see what we can come up with & report back here if I get any joy.

Shame your bike isn't a little later, there's someone breaking a 4TX on ebay.

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#31 danbara

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 09:10 am

nop, I'm native Bosnian but I studied english in university and worked as interpreter for some years

anyway I can't get magnet of, i managed to brake 3 pullers but bloody thing wont move a bit.

even tried to heat it with heat gun but no movement at all

i really don't know what to do next.


any idea any one sad.gif

#32 MadAd

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 12:33 pm

To get the rotor off I had to use a 3 legged puller that was about 350mm long and hugly strong. Leaving the bolt in place but about 3 threads undone. I did the puller as tight as I could and then applied some heat from the oxyacetaline torch round the centre of the rotor!! I managed to get about three quaters of the way round when it went with such a bang I though someone had been shot, both me and dad had to calm down for a few minuts!!
Hope you get it sorted!!
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#33 steveearwig

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 01:10 pm

I think it was my CX needed a bolt screwed into the rotor, (hold rotor, tighten bolt, hit with hammer - bang!) I have no TDM Haynes here but does the TDM need anything similar?

Something like this:



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#34 dapleb

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 01:35 pm

Have had em come off easy and one loike danbara's. A grtt 3 legged puller did the job...and a noise that makes ya jump loike MadAd said. Thought me puller had broked.

Brian mentioned he used some bolt method. Have you tried that danbara?
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#35 danbara

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 01:57 pm





according to Haynes, it needs something like this


and I also build something like brian but with handlebar for better grip wink.gif

Edited by danbara, 09 June 2010 - 01:59 pm.


#36 steveearwig

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 06:57 am

Did you have any success with the rotor yet? Perhaps you should take it to an engineering shop, although you'll probably have to point out it's not for a tractor...

I've had zero response to my enquiries so far sad.gif
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#37 danbara

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 07:30 am

managed to take the magnet off.

it went of with a big bang smile.gif,

had to put a bigger bolt ( i made puller with M12 central pusher but they had tendency on snapping like a branch so i put M16 bolt ) ann applied some heat to the magnet.
and yesterday was a 32 deg C in shadow so the day was like perfect to work with a torch tongue.gif

anyway it's of now but (there is always but) now i have trouble with balancer security plate and the screws that holds them.

i don't know if I can tap them with a hammer or apply some heat?

#38 dapleb

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 11:04 am

QUOTE(danbara @ Fri 11th Jun 2010, 08:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i don't know if I can tap them with a hammer or apply some heat?


Well done on the alteenator.

Did we forget to mention the balancer shaft end plates? laugh.gif

Think there is an o-ring in there somewhere so be careful if you use heat and dont wanna replace oring! The screws are made from the special Yamaha Marshmallow.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#39 danbara

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 12:49 pm

damn those things are soft.

I'll try a bigger screwdriver and make a gently knock with 1/2 kilo hammer tongue.gif

hope that will talk them into getting out hehe

if don't then I am out of idea. maybe a drill is good one wink.gif

Edited by danbara, 11 June 2010 - 12:51 pm.


#40 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 01:02 pm

laugh.gif

Your getting the idea........ if the first wan doesn't work.........use a bigger wan ! biggrin.gif

I commend you on your perseverence....and perspiration !

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