Carpe Citizen
Posted 23 April 2013 - 06:03 am
Thanks for the write up, I'll attempt to repair mine tomorrow.
Bikes been garaged since October, fitted battery & eventually got it fired up to find revs wont drop below 2k.
17 years of GS's and not had any such issues ;-)
I'm Sooooooo tempted to say something !!!!!
Thanks and good luck with it.
Backstreet Mechanikin'
Posted 23 April 2013 - 09:45 am
Use a decent PH2 bit to tackle the screws with not a pozi bit. I found one of those Wera diamond coated bits give good grip without camming out. If you use a 1/4" small ring spanner to drive the bit you can get in the tight space.
Sometimes the cheese screws just chew out anyway.
Edited by leehenty, 23 April 2013 - 02:10 pm.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
sticking around
Posted 23 April 2013 - 12:02 pm
I chewed up the little blighters with a PH2 and thought I was looking at a major strip down! A nights sleep and fresh eyes in the morning prompted carefully gripping the screw head with a pair of long nose mole grips - that did the jobby! Much respect and thanks to Mr Henty for his expert guidance along the way....
Carpe fan
Posted 23 April 2013 - 04:11 pm
I'm Sooooooo tempted to say something !!!!!
Thanks and good luck with it.
Carpe Citizen
Posted 01 May 2013 - 06:44 pm
Is that the collective noun for a group of GSer's -
a Camp-site ........ 
Carpe fan
Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:21 pm
Carpe fan
Posted 02 May 2013 - 05:16 pm
supporter of the "Anti-Dazzle" Club
Posted 03 May 2013 - 01:16 pm
I've had the rubber boot on mine for well over a year, and no issues to date.
I'm off to grab hold of a large lump of wood following that statement...
...
...
...
...
Carpe junky
Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:50 pm
I have done the above job twice in 23000 miles. replacing the bolts with hexigan head the second time.
One of the big problems with motorbikes is mild steel in aluminium castings. One reacts with the other causing a seizure.
So I bought some Alumslip, made by Molyslip for this job but knowing it will get many other uses. Try getting a seized engine bolt out, impossible, I had one on my suzuki GS500E, it wouldn't budge.
I believe in using the correct grease for the job now such red rubber grease on brake seals and pistons. It is horrifying how seals react to ordinary grease and copper grease. One of the rubber guids in my old VFR brakes expanded by at least 25%. making them absolutely useless.
I like the idea of the gaitor over the pin, that would do a good job of holding the Alumslip on the pin.
Backstreet Mechanikin'
Posted 07 May 2013 - 08:56 am
well said, I keep bangin' on to folks about copperslip on brake pistons as well, its for the sliding part of the pads.
The best anti seize in alloy is an alloy based grease, no sense in adding a third metal of copper to the mix to start off electrolytic corrosion. Add salt in there and it will all be fizzing away.
The folks who make ACF50 do a grease version as well which is rated for bearings. To date since I did the cold start with acf50 and the boot, never had to go back there.
I have turned stainless pins for my own and Chrisr's bikes out of 316 stainless rod, the 'final solution' to a problem that should have had a boot in the first place.
http://www.ebay.co.u...1948#vi-content
http://www.ebay.co.u...536787070&ps=54
Edited by leehenty, 07 May 2013 - 09:13 am.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
Carpe junky
Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:42 pm
When I found the engine bolt of GS500 was seized it took me on a Google search about elctrolytic effect of one metal on another. There is a table somewhere.
It rather surprised me to find out that mild steel was better than stainless with aluminium.
Backstreet Mechanikin'
Posted 07 May 2013 - 01:28 pm
so long as the cathode (stainless steel) is smaller in area relative to the anode (aluminium) there is little risk of corrosion. So you would have problems with alloy screws in stainless steel plates, but rarely with stainless screws holding alloy plates.
I always seek to 'switch off' the galvanic cells by using acf50 on the screws. They use this stuff in aircraft wings.
So far it's been good stuff. Just costs a lot.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
Carpe junky
Posted 07 May 2013 - 06:09 pm
Not heard of corrosion block before.
Thanks for the tip.
I always treat my bike with ACF50 each year just before the salt and it does seem to work.
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
