36 replies to this topic

[fixitsan]

........maybe you have a superior version of the Hotgrips, I have the ‘Commuter’ version, and haven’t read that claim in the accompanying literature....indeed it says ‘please ensure that you remember to switch off the Hotgrips before leaving the vehicle....Oxford Products cannot accept any responsibility for flattened batteries ‘

Even more reason to wire via the ignition!.......(see above).....Jiff

so what do you use to control them .... a high/low 2 way switch ?

I can draw up a circuit and explain it but I would only be pasting pictures I found on google.

so if you just google 'heated grips relay circuit' you should find a ton of stuff.

as for the switched ignition wire i think you ccanuse the supply to a brake light switch, or if your bikes headlight always comes on with the ignition then tap into either the headlight or tail light 12v wire.
this covers it all.... http://www.r1200gs.i...owto/relay.html

[drewpy]

I did some forward planning and fitted a relay activated fuse bus with 4 sep connections.

 

1= fuel pump

2= usb socket

3 = heated grips

4= spare (for now)

 

 

the horn would need its own relay though as it would be operated as needed (obviuosly)

[fixitsan]

I wish i had installed one of these, an all in one solution  https://www.ebay.co....OY3uxg_ToRDsTow

[Apache]

4 way fuse box and micro relays and correct holders fit nicely here on a 4TX...  20171009_104840.jpg   166.74KB   0 downloads

[James]

Guys, it looks like you know what youre doing, so I have a dumb question to ask.

Im looking at something similar to run feeds for SatNav, grips and so forth. I was looking at a Fuzeblock but decided I didnt need to go that route as everything is going to work off a switched live feed, nothing permanently fed from the battery.

Heres the dumb question. If I run one of these fuse blocks with a common feed direct from a switched live, whats the purpose/need for the relay? A simple wiring diagram might help me understand

Edited by Jim, 23 December 2017 - 10:59 am.

[Apache]

Guys, it looks like you know what youre doing, so I have a dumb question to ask.

Im looking at something similar to run feeds for SatNav, grips and so forth. I was looking at a Fuzeblock but decided I didnt need to go that route as everything is going to work off a switched live feed, nothing permanently fed from the battery.

Heres the dumb question. If I run one of these fuse blocks with a common feed direct from a switched live, whats the purpose/need for the relay? A simple wiring diagram might help me understand

Jim, run a fused battery feed in to the relay t30. Switch it on via a switched ignition feed t86. Negative t85. Consumers t87. Ignition is then only carrying the relay winding. If you hijack a factory ignition for the consumers you'll chance overloading it. By far the best way is still to install a 3 or 4 way fuse box because you'll still have to individually fuse the consumers after the relay.hth

[James]

Brilliant, cheers John (got your PM with diagram too) - now I understand Ill get the relevant parts after Christmas .

I was thinking of making a common earth bus bar bolted directly to the battery earth terminal. Is there a good reason I shouldnt?

Edited by Jim, 23 December 2017 - 02:57 pm.

[Apache]

No, best place for it provided enough thread for a sound tight connection after your addition..hth

[fixitsan]

Heres the dumb question. If I run one of these fuse blocks with a common feed direct from a switched live, whats the purpose/need for the relay? A simple wiring diagram might help me understand

 

 As a rule, always add a separate fuse to each additional circuit/device.

 

Unless the total current is less than 1Amp don't attach the devices to any circuit designed to draw under 15Amps. These are generous safety margins but quick surges can be a problem

 

For all the time it takes a relay is the superior component to install, and every circuit which it switches ought to have it's own fuse.

 

A satnav/USB socket might only deliver 1Amp (in some cases it can be more) but if the wires supplying it chaff on the frame then the current will be enough to burn the wire usually, unless the circuit is independently fused. (Or at least at the very least the fuse of the circuit you tapped into will blow) , and if it is the supply to something important you will be stranded, with a lot of time on your hands as you wait for a rescue , to self flagellate, murmuring to yourself about how next time you will use a relay and fuses !

 

Protection and peace of mind needn't cost you as much as a  Fuzeblocks unit. Buy one of these for £5.95, add a relay and fuses as required http://www.ebay.co.u...5.c100005.m1851

[jiff]

Jim, run a fused battery feed in to the relay t30. Switch it on via a switched ignition feed t86. Negative t85. Consumers t87. Ignition is then only carrying the relay winding. If you hijack a factory ignition for the consumers you'll chance overloading it. By far the best way is still to install a 3 or 4 way fuse box because you'll still have to individually fuse the consumers after the relay.hth

.......that feels like it would be v.helpful for me too.....

as per my earlier post, the Oxford heated grips which I have (4A max) present me with two wires from the hi/lo / off switch.....
indicated specifically to go to + or - on the battery.....
if I want to be ignition dependant, how do I follow the above relay connections assuming, say, I want to use the brake-light wiring as the source of ignition controlled power.....

Please correct if I misunderstand:

T30 accepts a fused supply from the battery +i’ve
T86 accepts the feed from the brakelight (live?)
T85 goes to battery -ive or earthed to the frame, together with the -ive indicated wire from the heated grips switch
T87 goes to the +ive indicated wire from the heated grips switch (fused?)

....in the unlikely event that I’ve got it right, do all the connections need to use heavier duty wire?

as before, it must be obvious that I have no expertise in this area, so would be really grateful for a response
at the most elementary level.....

thanks....in hope....Jiff.

[fixitsan]

.......that feels like it would be v.helpful for me too.....

as per my earlier post, the Oxford heated grips which I have (4A max) present me with two wires from the hi/lo / off switch.....
indicated specifically to go to + or - on the battery.....
if I want to be ignition dependant, how do I follow the above relay connections assuming, say, I want to use the brake-light wiring as the source of ignition controlled power.....

Please correct if I misunderstand:

T30 accepts a fused supply from the battery +i’ve
T86 accepts the feed from the brakelight (live?)
T85 goes to battery -ive or earthed to the frame, together with the -ive indicated wire from the heated grips switch
T87 goes to the +ive indicated wire from the heated grips switch (fused?)

....in the unlikely event that I’ve got it right, do all the connections need to use heavier duty wire?

as before, it must be obvious that I have no expertise in this area, so would be really grateful for a response
at the most elementary level.....

thanks....in hope....Jiff.

 

 

Yes you've got it right

 

The wire from the brake light switch can be light duty.  The other three should be of at least the same current capacity as the ones for the Hotgrips.

[James]

Would 2 mm o/d, 25 Amp rated cable be okay for the thicker wiring?

[fixitsan]

Would 2 mm o/d, 25 Amp rated cable be okay for the thicker wiring?

wire is usually specified un terms of copper cross sectional area. Poor quality wire has thick insulation around a tgin copper conductor, and although it might feel substantial may heat up at the rated current.


having said that, heated grips and a few small electronic devices are unlikely to draw more than 10A so even a poor quality 25A wire should be fine

[Apache]

Would 2 mm o/d, 25 Amp rated cable be okay for the thicker wiring?

Cable is measured square section Jim. Cable outside diameter is dependant on insulation thickness so not a good guide. 1mm2 section cable will cover everything you're doing..


Overlooked fixitsan post.....same info repeated..

Edited by Apache, 24 December 2017 - 11:23 am.

[James]

wire is usually specified un terms of copper cross sectional area. Poor quality wire has thick insulation around a tgin copper conductor, and although it might feel substantial may heat up at the rated current.
having said that, heated grips and a few small electronic devices are unlikely to draw more than 10A so even a poor quality 25A wire should be fine

 

Cable is measured square section Jim. Cable outside diameter is dependant on insulation thickness so not a good guide. 1mm2 section cable will cover everything you're doing..
Overlooked fixitsan post.....same info repeated..

Thanks guys, I actually meant 2 mm2, not o/d. My fault. I usually buy my wiring stuff from Vehicle Wiring Products, the cable would be their standard thinwall.

[jiff]

.......five months later !.......we’ll, it’s Spring....time for fettling (though not necessarily for heated grips)

Q1:
the relay comes with an integral 25A spade fuse, do I still need a fuse in the (power) wire to pin 30 on the relay?
- if so what Amps?
......also it was suggested on here that the wire to pin 87 (to the grips) should be fused.....the wiring supplied with the grips
already contains a fuse holder (I imagine it’ll tell me what Amps)
.....so is that three fuses required?...or does the fuse in the relay obviate the need for either / both of the others.

Q2:
.....also been suggested that pin 86 be wired to the rear brake light switch.....investigated that &, if I’m looking in the right place,
there’s a ‘twin core’ black wire coming from the switch into the loom via a (awkwardly placed) connector, one core brown, one core yellow, both fine wire......if I’m in the right place, be grateful for tips as to which wire to join into, and equally challenging....how?

jiff

[Apache]

If it's an 850 jiff. The fuse in the relay covers pin 87 circuits and you have one in the grips wiring so no more needed there. Your t30 feed from the battery needs a fuse as close to the batteryas possible. Brake light switch wiring will do it but it's awkward to work with and catches all the road spray. Easier to tap the brake light feed at the fuse box. Brown wire. Relay takes minimal current so brake light fuse will cover that.

Edited by Apache, 12 May 2018 - 05:44 pm.