54 replies to this topic

[leehenty]

Um I'll have to consult the manual, but I know there is one, the ecu cannot control the required current  by itself,

OK manual looked at.

 

It's near the battery a relay with red/black and blue/yellow wires  going in from the ecu on the coil side and red plus red/blue coming out on the power side. The switched wire is red/blue to the fuel pump which comes from the red power in from the battery. It should click when activated thus connecting red to red/blue. The relevant page in manual is 8-51.

Edited by leehenty, 30 March 2016 - 11:35 pm.

[JBX]

This is the Injection system relay, also called "main relay" on injected cars.

 

You may check it using Diag #50 - it should also activate the fuel pump.

 

See below the simplified diagram :

 

Edited by JBX, 31 March 2016 - 01:45 am.

[fixitsan]

Would a faulty relay cause an error 30 ? Lean angle switch is reporting a fault condition, I would resolve that issue first, otherwise i think the ECU isn't going to turn the relay on.

 

In JBX's diagram the main relay coil, pin 1 wire, blue/yellow, should go low, 0V to turn the relay on. If you measure 12V on that pin then the ECU is not attempting to turn the main relay on for a particular reason. Check the 12V is present from fuse 1, through the engine run switch and to pin 2 of the main relay. (red the /black wire into relay) If there is 12V on pin 2 of the relay and it isn't switching then that confirms the ECU hasn't deemed it safe, perhaps because it thinks the bike is on it's side.

[ric]

When my fuel pump failed a couple of years ago I recall that error code 30 showed 00, among a number of other diagnostic checks which did not make sense to me at the time.  I had a detailed and very helpful conversation with JBX.  The pump is not serviceable and very expensive new.  I sourced a secondhand one.

[celticbiker]

Spent the morning on this and found some interesting anomalies.

Definitely no power getting to the fuel pump.

Red run switch won't clear fault codes or indeed trigger any events like fan on or lighting relay in diagnostics #52 & #51 but it does work in that it prevents you turning the engine over when off so as a switch it's doing it's job.

When checking diag code #09 (battery voltage) it's reading 00 but a meter shows the battery at 12.7v.

Thinking it might be an ecu issue I checked the neutral switch code #21 and that registers fine.

I'm starting to get annoyed with this now.

Any more ideas?

All help much appreciated, and you'll all get cake when this is finally sorted.

Cheers

CB

[fixitsan]

I've got a spare ECU here, I can post it to you if it comes to needing to check it by swapping out the ECU. I don't think that's your problem though  but let me know if you want to try

[celticbiker]

I'd really appreciate that, at least it would eliminate a possible problem mines a 2003.

 

I notice there is also a Fuel injection system fuse (item 6 on the wiring diagram) that could be the cause.

Trouble I have isn't reading the diagram it's finding the parts on the bike.

[fixitsan]

Yup the manual has a parts location diagram.....once you've located that !

If you PM me your address I can at least get it parcelled up ready for you saying when

[JBX]

OMG don't you have the Workshop Manual in hands you naughty boy ?

On 2003 TDM900 the Main Relay and the Cutoff Relay are located inside the same casing.

This casing is located on the chassis under the fuel tank, behind the throttle bodies - see manual.

 

You either have a fuse issue - you may start with that - or a wiring issue between the relay and the ECU, or a relay issue - see my post on the "Fan won't start" thead.

To check the Main Relay : connect the R/B & B/L wires. If the fuel pump start working, then you have a relay issue.

 

I bet my next cake that the ECU is not in cause : grounding circuits are very robust & protected against all sort of mess.

 

This is a view from the Main Relay / Cutoff Relay casing :

 

 

 

Edited by JBX, 02 April 2016 - 02:34 pm.

[celticbiker]

The manual is only on my pc/phone/pad, don't keep a hard copy.

You ar closer than you think with that relay.

It's a broken red wire on the relay that's causing the problem.

 

 

 

I cleaned out the connector block hole and there is nothing left of the spade.

To test that this was the only problem I striped the wire back pushed it up into the hole to make contact with the pin an presto, fired first time.

The question now is how to affect a permanent fix.

Had another look at the wiring diagram, the red wire is a permanent live from the fuel injection system fuse to the relay, when energised it connects it to the red/blue that runs to the fuel pump, simples.

Edited by celticbiker, 02 April 2016 - 04:24 pm.

[JBX]

Great !

You may remove the pin from the connector with a very thin screwdriver or a pin, unlock the pin from the connecting side - or from the wires side, it depends on the connector.

 

Once removed the pin may be reworked with sharp blade to put back in the wire - a good soldering is the best.

[leehenty]

Glad you have found it, a simple broken wire in the end. You can buy new terminals that fit in the block on fleabay. Now you got it in bits check all the other connecter blocks while you are in there.

[celticbiker]

There is no pin left in there jbx. It has completely rotted away.
I have made a semi temporary repair for now, I'll post pictures of it later.

Lee
Already done that, did it as a matter of course in case it was a dirty connector.
Didn't do this relay add I didn't think it wasn't waterproof.

[fixitsan]

I swear by Deoxit D100L....it was the only thing that could stop ozone gas corroding electrical connectors in a machine I used to work on, where the ozone would stain stainless steel ! A judicious application renews most connectors.

 

i would remove another spade and measure it, to replace it with a new one.....or post your measurements here because I routinely save bits of old harnesses specifically to recover good spades, sockets, bullet connectors and so on. I'll probably have one.

 

The thing to bear in mind is that where the wire is broken and is covered in verdigris, it will probably need to be cut back an inch or two just to get to good clean conductor material that you can solder reliably. So you'll need a spade with a red wire already crimped to it, if you don't use a brand new spade and wire. I'll see what i have

Edited by fixitsan, 02 April 2016 - 07:17 pm.

[celticbiker]

It turned out not to be a spade in the end it's like an inverted u shape with a crimp connector on one side for the wire.
The whole thing pushes up into the plastic block and when the relay is connected it's pin slides between it and the plastic, using the u shape as a spring to create a tight connection.
For now I have been able to tightly insert wire into the middle of the u shape then plugged the block back into the relay thus causing the pin to squeeze the wire even tighter, I have then connected this to the red wire, it's only temporary until the weather is better and I have more time to spend on it.

[fixitsan]

As long as you're happy with it for now....at least if it stops working you know what to look at first

 

You might find a little box of those connector terminals in your local Halfords, located on 'the rack of useful bits you never knew could cost so much'

[Daveb]

Glad you got it sorted, I had the same problem with the tiger.

http://dashack.co.uk...pic,9866.0.html

[Bjørge]

Glad you got it sorted, I had the same problem with the tiger.

http://dashack.co.uk...pic,9866.0.html

Can I borrow your login, please ?

[Daveb]

Can I borrow your login, please ?

Nope 😀, I had the same problem with the tiger, took ages to find the problem, cable came separated from terminal connector.

Edited by Daveb, 05 April 2016 - 11:45 am.

[ramo]

CB

 

 

Edited by ramo, 01 August 2017 - 09:46 am.