154 replies to this topic

[wigwamclan]

Well, 12.5v is considered to be a flat battery by mr Yamaha so 11.6v is deffo wayyyyy too low.  Best measure the battery voltage with a multimeter, seem to recall some discrepancy when checking it with DIAG mode.

 

OK Studders, I put it on charge yesterday so first thing this morning I checked the battery with the meter whilst on the bike an' it made 12.9v.......result !  (I'm grasping at small victories)

 

 

Haven't trawled through all the posts,but error 33 is a bad connection on the low tension side of coil 1

 

How do I identify which is the number 1 coil ?

....either way, I pulled every connector under the tank yesterday, including the ones on the LT side of the coils, scraped the green terminals (fiddly, ball-ache of a job), filled it with Lec Klene, and plugged and unplugged 'em a few times so with any luck, if it was a bit of rot I got it

 

 

Diag mode battery test - and all other tests - must be done with the fuel pump disconnected, otherwise the result given is not correct.

 

So you shouldn't be too much worried by the 11.x volts you got.

 

That said, batteries don't like excessive low & high temperatures (*), as it increases the self-discharge rate.

 

(* : high temperature means above 30°C, I don't know if this is very common in UK...)

 

Yesterday whilst looking for info' on the DIAG and its codes I came across, and read your 'Inside the TDM850-900' article where it says 'The fuel pump must theoretically be disconnected beforehand. This may be ignored because it is not very easy to do and apart from the noise this does not interfere with any Diag control.', so I left it connected.......question is, d'ya think I should, in this instance, go ahead and disconnect the pump just to be sure   

 

btw, thanks to the TDM clan for all the help an' advice you've given so far........It really warms the cockles so to speak

[fixitsan]

Definitely worth a battery check, and also measure the voltage with a multimeter while the engine is running. Should see 14v or thereabouts

[celticbiker]

You've done it anyway but cylinder #1 is the nearside cylinder.

[wigwamclan]

OK, update time,........took it fer a spin and it's still there but not so noticeable and always around the 3 grand point.  I'm getting a steady 14.2v at any RPM and 13v when not running so that's good.

Now it's beginning to point to the coil, so the question now is which one?  Is there a way to test them ?

[Kelpie]

Disconnect one, if it keeps running fine try the other one.  It will run rough either way on 1 pot, but it probably won't run at all on the dodgy one on its own.  Up the revs a bit though or it'll stall anyway on tick over.

Edited by Kelpie, 21 July 2016 - 12:40 pm.

[JBX]

 

Yesterday whilst looking for info' on the DIAG and its codes I came across, and read your 'Inside the TDM850-900' article where it says 'The fuel pump must theoretically be disconnected beforehand. This may be ignored because it is not very easy to do and apart from the noise this does not interfere with any Diag control.', so I left it connected.......question is, d'ya think I should, in this instance, go ahead and disconnect the pump just to be sure 

 

btw, thanks to the TDM clan for all the help an' advice you've given so far........It really warms the cockles so to speak

 

Yes I know, this is a little confusing !

 

The main problem is that the fuel pump is activated when you check the Diag Mode.

This is actually not a problem for most of the tests, except for the battery voltage check as the fuel pump drain some power and lowers the battery voltage.

 

I'll made it more clear on my site.

[edit] done !

Edited by JBX, 21 July 2016 - 01:38 pm.

[celticbiker]

It's not uncommon for the coils to short to the frame or engine where they touch on these bikes.
Try running it at night with the side panels off and wiggle the ht leads (wear leather gloves) and see if they are arcing to the frame anywhere.

[wigwamclan]

is there any way to test sparkplugs?

Edited by wigwamclan, 21 July 2016 - 04:41 pm.

[JBX]

is there any way to test sparkplugs?

 

Diag Mode #30/31 : http://www.jbx9.16mb...?page=MODE_DIAG

Edited by JBX, 21 July 2016 - 05:04 pm.

[TYREDNGRUMPEE]

is there any way to test sparkplugs?

 

Buy another pair and switch them around is the simplest option.

A plug that intermittently develops a fault under load/stress wont show itself unless changed out.

It happens.

I've also bought new plugs only to find that one of the new items was faulty too. Presumably dropped in the shop.

[wigwamclan]

It's not uncommon for the coils to short to the frame or engine where they touch on these bikes.
Try running it at night with the side panels off and wiggle the ht leads (wear leather gloves) and see if they are arcing to the frame anywhere

 

Blacked out the garage and no arcing at any revs

 

Disconnect one, if it keeps running fine try the other one.  It will run rough either way on 1 pot, but it probably won't run at all on the dodgy one on its own.  Up the revs a bit though or it'll stall anyway on tick over.

 

So I did this and neither side missed although both sides did hunt between 2500 an' 3000 and it was on the stand in the garage so maybe it only occurs under load .....

 

I checked the primary side of both coils and they seemed ok too, and I removed the side stand switch an' checked that as that's the other fault code that comes up so I thought maybe that might be having an affect, but again I could find no problems....

 

..

So, my next question is how do I clear existing fault codes 33 and 19 from d01 61? or would they disappear when the faults are cured? 'cos I'm not sure if these are old fault codes from passed problems or codes I'm generating every time I run the bike.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes I know, this is a little confusing !

 

The main problem is that the fuel pump is activated when you check the Diag Mode.

This is actually not a problem for most of the tests, except for the battery voltage check as the fuel pump drain some power and lowers the battery voltage.

 

I'll made it more clear on my site.

[edit] done !

:banana:Thanks : )

[wigwamclan]

Things have gone from bad to worse!....took it for a run this morning and as soon as it was warm or after I'd ran it at a steady 3500/4500rpm it started missing again, so took it home, brought up the diag screen only to find it had added the other coil to the fault codes

[JBX]

First check the ECU connector, this is the only one between the ECU & the coils.

 

Then check the coils primary resistance with an ohm-meter.

 

Then check there is wiring continuity between the coil primary & the ECU connector.

[wigwamclan]

Thanks for the reply JBX...

 

I've not tried your suggested rout yet but I've found there's no voltage on the diag check?, plus, when it cranks over i no longer get the sound of the fuel pump when I turn the engine stop switch....

[JBX]

Did you mean Diag check #9 ?

 

If you don't hear the fuel pump, you need to check the fuel pump connector and also the injection relay : check #50.

Edited by JBX, 22 July 2016 - 03:05 pm.

[wigwamclan]

ok, getting somewhere...found a tiny pin in the large multiblock relay positioned at the base of the battery had corroded to the point of dust...fingers crossed

[wigwamclan]

Did you mean Diag check #9 ?

 

If you don't hear the fuel pump, you need to check the fuel pump connector and also the injection relay : check #50.

 

Yes, voltage check on battery.....diag reading for 50 is 00?

[celticbiker]

Have a look at post #30 on this thread

http://www.carpe-tdm...ic=32965&page=2

I had the same problem earlier this year.

I managed a semi permanent bodge for now but have a loom coming just so I can use the connector block.

[wigwamclan]

well, I soldered a wire to the pin in the relay and...she lives : )

[wigwamclan]

Have a look at post #30 on this thread

http://www.carpe-tdm...ic=32965&page=2

I had the same problem earlier this year.

I managed a semi permanent bodge for now but have a loom coming just so I can use the connector block.

 

This was my dred scenario...those micro pins are a pain...I managed to solder a thin wire to the relay and feed the other end back through the connector block, then solder it to the end of the fractured wire......what a ball ache, but it's working for now until I can source another pin ( if that's possible ).

 

I've just looked at your link and lo and behold it's the very same wire !!

Edited by wigwamclan, 22 July 2016 - 05:42 pm.