6010 replies to this topic

[Norwegian]

I charged the battery (was still pretty good, couple of months since last charge) and looked longingly at it (the bike, not the battery) for some time. -14°C here now.

[steve27bha]

Tapped some Renthal 755 bar ends M16x1.5, I made myself a tap guide to keep it nice and straight. This isn't for my own bike but another TDM.

Would you like to explain / describe the kit involved? I only recognise the tap holder - and the vice!

[AliG]

Tapped some Renthal 755 bar ends M16x1.5, I made myself a tap guide to keep it nice and straight. This isn't for my own bike but another TDM.

They are for my blue TDM.I find I get a sore wrist with the original bars and I notice it immediately when I go from one bike to the other.

[leehenty]

Thread is M16x1.5, you need to get the tap started square in the bar, so the easiest way is to use a guide tube. Start with taper tap once you got a decent depth thread take off guide switch to the plug tap to finish the thread. Lubricant is a must. I have the bar clamped on a collet block so as not to mark the bar. With a guide tube you could do this "on bike" you need a 23-22 mm collet as the left side knurl increases bar diameter slightly.

Edited by leehenty, 30 January 2021 - 09:41 am.

[fixitsan]

Thread is M16x1.5, you need to get the tap started square in the bar, so the easiest way is to use a guide tube. Start with taper tap once you got a decent depth thread take off guide switch to the plug tap to finish the thread. Lubricant is a must. I have the bar clamped on a collet block so as not to mark the bar. With a guide tube you could do this "on bike" you need a 23-22 mm collet as the left side knurl increases bar diameter slightly.

 

Like Steve I couldn't quite picture it either.

Thanks Google

 

A guide which presumably fits over the outside of a tube or stands flush with the face - https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-tap-wrench-aligner-200249?utm_source=tag&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=2266&glCountry=GB    

 

 

 

Someone making a face fitting tap guide tube -    

 

Good job you mentioned it Lee. Every day is a school day !

Edited by fixitsan, 30 January 2021 - 10:54 am.

[Snowbird]

Re-fitted swingarm and rear wheel, plenty of grease on all the bolts and spindles this time, just got to sort my rear caliper now, if it all goes tits up I'll be back asking who's got a spare caliper for sale.....(poxy sodding bleed screws)

Swingarm squirted full of acf50 as there was a fair bit of rust came out when I dropped it off, looked mostly just surface rust though.

[steve27bha]

Like Steve I couldn't quite picture it either.

.....

 

I've twigged it now.

 

The black tube coming up from the vice is the end of the handlebar, and the collet is only there to hold it secure in the vice clamp.

The guide Lee made is the ridged aluminium (?) cylinder and it is aligned and attached to the h/bar by the three grub screws, so that will have an ID = OD of the h'bar. at one end and = the tap shank at the other.

 

Here's a thing for after COVID when we can mix freely. Should I have a go at learning to use a lathe at the Tool Library and Men's Shed that recently started up in my town? It was just getting going when the virus showed up. I've helped out cleaning and sharpening tools so far, and blagged a carpenter's bench vice that was spare and installed it in my workshop.

[fixitsan]

Re-fitted swingarm and rear wheel, plenty of grease on all the bolts and spindles this time, just got to sort my rear caliper now, if it all goes tits up I'll be back asking who's got a spare caliper for sale.....(poxy sodding bleed screws)

Swingarm squirted full of acf50 as there was a fair bit of rust came out when I dropped it off, looked mostly just surface rust though.

There's lots of those calipers about, the old fz600, fj600's...usually cheap

[leehenty]

Steve by all means learn to use a lathe. It will come in very handy for all sorts of stuff.
My guide was made from an offcut of 30mm HE30 alloy bar. Doesn't have to be knurled to work, just makes it look presentable. To get the marks for the grub screws use a felt pen to mark a line with it turning slowly, then use the three jaws of the chuck to mark the drill points.

[itchyfeet2]

Took my MK1 for an MOT today thinking I had done all that was needed. 

With my new tyres, new brake pads front and back, new carb rebuild kit, new fuel lines, new fork seals, new battery new stator, rebuilt wiring loom and a new horn and a replacement cam chain my bargain eBay find was looking promising.

I took it for a test ride yesterday and thought i needed bit more adjustment on the fuel mixture as it still bogged down under 2.5k rpm. No props I thought, do it after MOT.

It passed no probs but the tester said he had to jump start it. So I checked the regulator rectifier when I got home, on the way back to mine it ran like an absolute bag of nails.It would not rev cleanly at all.  I went to unplug the male rectifier connector from the wiring loom connector to find that the female connector block was missing. Previous bodger had just crimped on  female spade connectors directly to the stator wires and wedged them on to the rectifier male plug. Then cunningly wrapped them in magical black insulation tape and pushed them up behind the frame. As if that would stop them fusing together into a melted black mess.

Now Im not sure if running probs were due to no battery power or I have a fuel blockage, bad filter or have to take carbs off again. Had to order a new 4 way connector block as I just didn't have one anywhere.

 

Still, She passed her MOT, hooray.......

[Snowbird]

Woohoo rear caliper sorted! Drilled/tapped and helicoiled today, didn't have to shorten the insert at all but did have to remove the first one and drastically weaken the tang on another and fit again, seat was a bit gouged but seems to seal ok with a quick gentle fettle with a drill and good nip up, started the thread then took tap away and ground the end off, did a bit more then shortened the tap again to get the insert right in to the bottom so now have a fairly useless m8 helicoil kit unless I buy a new tap, I guess a £22 kit was cheap to save a rear wheel and caliper.

Bled ok after starting by sucking on pipes attached to the nipples (ooer mrs.) and appears to be holding up fine, new seals and cleaned pistons seems to have no dragging at all.

[fixitsan]

Took my MK1 for an MOT today thinking I had done all that was needed. 

With my new tyres, new brake pads front and back, new carb rebuild kit, new fuel lines, new fork seals, new battery new stator, rebuilt wiring loom and a new horn and a replacement cam chain my bargain eBay find was looking promising.

I took it for a test ride yesterday and thought i needed bit more adjustment on the fuel mixture as it still bogged down under 2.5k rpm. No props I thought, do it after MOT.

It passed no probs but the tester said he had to jump start it. So I checked the regulator rectifier when I got home, on the way back to mine it ran like an absolute bag of nails.It would not rev cleanly at all.  I went to unplug the male rectifier connector from the wiring loom connector to find that the female connector block was missing. Previous bodger had just crimped on  female spade connectors directly to the stator wires and wedged them on to the rectifier male plug. Then cunningly wrapped them in magical black insulation tape and pushed them up behind the frame. As if that would stop them fusing together into a melted black mess.

Now Im not sure if running probs were due to no battery power or I have a fuel blockage, bad filter or have to take carbs off again. Had to order a new 4 way connector block as I just didn't have one anywhere.

 

Still, She passed her MOT, hooray.......

 

 

Good that it passed. I remember the day my mk1 bargain passed and on the way home the welded-on front sprocket came off, 400 yards from my house, and it was uphill all the way !

 

Sounds like you've got it sussed I would say. There probably shouldn't be any reverse flow from the battery back to the stator though, unless the rect/reg has fried a diode, if the battery isn't charging then it might have been because of the wiring problem you just found, and as the battery volts drop the ignition system suffers.

 

I would start with giving it a good charge and then run it, and check the battery volts as you rev it. If you've untangled the fried black tape and the wires no longer touch each other then it might have been all it needed.

[itchyfeet2]

 

 

Good that it passed. I remember the day my mk1 bargain passed and on the way home the welded-on front sprocket came off, 400 yards from my house, and it was uphill all the way !

 

Sounds like you've got it sussed I would say. There probably shouldn't be any reverse flow from the battery back to the stator though, unless the rect/reg has fried a diode, if the battery isn't charging then it might have been because of the wiring problem you just found, and as the battery volts drop the ignition system suffers.

 

I would start with giving it a good charge and then run it, and check the battery volts as you rev it. If you've untangled the fried black tape and the wires no longer touch each other then it might have been all it needed.

 

Thanks for that.

I'll sort the wiring out first, then do the A/C test. See what problem is, as you say it could still be the reg/rec that is duff. Hoping it was the wiring. I have another reg/rec which I thought was off a 4tx. It has one extra wire off it though than my 3vd one so not sure it will work. 3 yellows, a black and a green.

[Snowbird]

I would guess the spare is an earth if the old one earthed through the housing, 3 yellows to stator ac, one to battery + and one to earth would make sense.

[Catteeclan]

Don't remember my 3vd having a an extra wire, just the 3 from stator and the one red which rotted out.
Could be wrong as I'm well old.

[Sphere]

Having previously fitted some Daytona heated grips, they left an unsightly gap at the bar end.

 

 IMG_20210202_133239.jpg   59.94KB   0 downloads

 

Rather than modify the bar end to close the gap I decided to make a couple of Ali spacers to make it look pretty.

 

 IMG_20210202_133226.jpg   175.55KB   0 downloads

 

The Job finished.  Much nicer!

 

 IMG_20210202_134040.jpg   74.08KB   0 downloads

 

 

 

 

[itchyfeet2]

Sphere they are really cool.

 

Now I'm glued to Allan Millyards you tube channel I've realised I need a lathe. I can't afford one, nor can I use one, so I need to find one in a hedge for free, with an old boy owner who wants to pass on his knowledge who lives near Stonehenge. Not sure how long I'll have to wait.........

 

but back to the post, skills!!

[Sphere]

Sphere they are really cool.

 

Now I'm glued to Allan Millyards you tube channel I've realised I need a lathe. I can't afford one, nor can I use one, so I need to find one in a hedge for free, with an old boy owner who wants to pass on his knowledge who lives near Stonehenge. Not sure how long I'll have to wait.........

 

but back to the post, skills!!

 

Thanks, I'm pleased with the end result. Not a difficult thing to make, but impossible without a lathe!

[dablik]

Don't remember my 3vd having a an extra wire, just the 3 from stator and the one red which rotted out.
Could b5e wrong as I'm well old.

3 white from the stator, red off the loom and a black earth I seem to recall.

[Studley Ramrod]

 

Thanks for that.

I'll sort the wiring out first, then do the A/C test. See what problem is, as you say it could still be the reg/rec that is duff. Hoping it was the wiring. I have another reg/rec which I thought was off a 4tx. It has one extra wire off it though than my 3vd one so not sure it will work. 3 yellows, a black and a green.

 

The black and the green wires might be for the pick up coil.