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What About This Method For Changing Oil Seals ?


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#41 RolfieB

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 08:00 pm

Yep! I've used this method a few times now. Last was project Gee Pee Zee (a couple of weeks ago), with a badly leaking seal. I didn't think it would work due to the severity of leak, but no problems. Then I use the old seal & a section of metal tube (from a parasol I think) just about the right dia to drive the new seals home, with the aid of a lump hammer.


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#42 leehenty

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 08:01 pm

Worked twice for me and had one fail 'cos the seal was so worn the oil just seeped out. I always try this method first, quick and easy just a bit messy.


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#43 butcher650

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 07:42 am

Awesome stuff... looks like the way to go. Were your bushes ok when you tried this method? 



#44 leehenty

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 08:24 pm

yes came out perfect no need to take fork apart just changed the worn seal then replaced oil.

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#45 Catteeclan

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 08:26 pm

Shame it's no good for upside downers. Can't have it all i guess.


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#46 butcher650

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 07:58 am

Apologies much in advance for this question, but I am a novice! Upside downers?? Am I being incredibly thick?!! 

 

Lee, how easy is it to fit the new seal... does it go in nice and easy. How do you know when its in the right place? 



#47 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 09:31 am

USD forks = upside down forks, stantions at the top and slidey bits at the bottom. :)


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#48 butcher650

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 10:15 am

Ah I see! Learn a new thing everyday... 

Is there much difference between them and right way up forks? 



#49 Catteeclan

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 11:55 am

They've the grubbins for fitting the wheel and brake callipers on the ends stopping you getting the seal off, so you have to separate the tubes.


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#50 butcher650

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 12:36 pm

Oh right. Is there any benefit to handling/comfort having them the other way up? 



#51 leehenty

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 03:01 pm

USD forks are supposed to be more rigid but makes servicing them a lot more difficult. The seals seem to fail earlier too. My nephews motocross bike has them and he kills seals about every four race sessions.

 

For the TDM's use a 43mm split seal installer or nylon stepped rings and a nylon lined slide hammer, there is a lip the seal sits on then a groove for the spring clip which must be visible.

 

DO NOT try to use screw drivers, punches and the like to get the seal in, you will slip and dent your nice chrome stanchion making your nice new seals leak. Some folks have successfully used a long plastic drain pipe.

 

proper fork seal driver 91 850, is 41mm fork tubes, later bikes are 43mm afaik.

 

http://www.singletra...E-GQQzUlQTw_wcB


Edited by leehenty, 19 June 2014 - 03:05 pm.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.


#52 trevini

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 05:29 pm

Oh right. Is there any benefit to handling/comfort having them the other way up? 

 

Stick 'em in upside down and see what 'appens  :rotflmmfao:


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#53 butcher650

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 07:12 am

Oh, haha! ouch, my sides, they hurt! 



#54 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 11 July 2021 - 09:05 pm

Cheers for finding this topic Daps.  Just about to watch yer vid. :)


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#55 fixitsan

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Posted 11 July 2021 - 11:34 pm

I slide hammered a couple of times, but with the forks still bolted into the triple clamps at the top, wheel removed and some serious blackbelt at fengshui moves.

 

But I reckon an adjustable section to go between the top clamps and the top of the tube of the fork tube. Something like a long tube which slips over the stanchion, but short enough to allow something like this to fit in the gap.

https://www.ebay.com...CLK|clp:2334524

 

But not made out of softylunium, something more substantial would be better


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#56 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 July 2021 - 11:00 am

Got my fork seals out using a metal frame and a trolley jack.

 

Attached File  forksealliberator.jpg   67.03KB   0 downloads

 

No need to extend the forks fully to fill with oil, just made sure there was no air in there and the innards wouldn't be squished when squishing.  Only took 3-4 pumps of the jack and the seals popped out.  No oil splatter but quite a bit o' dribbling.  Now to the joy (not) of cleaning all the components and re-painting the stantions.  Toobs have some rust marks so will be checking them, pretty sure they're out of the operating region but still need sorting.

 

New seals, bushes, clips, dust covers, copper washers, fork oil and paint and it's costing over £100  !!


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#57 Gdogg

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Posted 12 July 2021 - 12:31 pm

Good work Team Ramrod, shame theyre not the same as a MK2s I still have full OEM kit in the garage I brought for WinalotPrime, doh !! 🙄

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#58 Bjørge

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Posted 12 July 2021 - 12:32 pm

Got my fork seals out using a metal frame and a trolley jack.

 

attachicon.gif forksealliberator.jpg

 

No need to extend the forks fully to fill with oil, just made sure there was no air in there and the innards wouldn't be squished when squishing.  Only took 3-4 pumps of the jack and the seals popped out.  No oil splatter but quite a bit o' dribbling.  Now to the joy (not) of cleaning all the components and re-painting the stantions.  Toobs have some rust marks so will be checking them, pretty sure they're out of the operating region but still need sorting.

 

New seals, bushes, clips, dust covers, copper washers, fork oil and paint and it's costing over £100  !!

 

Yea, just thought of it when I read my description - why fill the whole tube? Must be an idiot doing that  :lol:. Btw, I used the oil from the other leg to fill as it was brand new oil in them when I changed seals and I saw no reason to change it... 


Nice job, BTW :-)


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#59 dapleb

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Posted 12 July 2021 - 12:38 pm

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#60 dablik

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Posted 12 July 2021 - 12:48 pm

Thought you would of pulled them apart with ya bare hands Studs  :)


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