892 replies to this topic

[leehenty]

It's like when I rebuilt the RE, started up nervously watching for signs of oil leak.Take plugs out spin on starter to circulate oil first.

[dablik]

It's like when I rebuilt the RE, started up nervously watching for signs of oil leak.Take plugs out spin on starter to circulate oil first.

Will do, she's been cranked over today on the car battery from the starter cable..

[Studley Ramrod]

Just run it and check for leaks/unusual noises etc. Then when happy ride it. I know there is lots of info about how to run on start up...often different.

I would not thrash it but more importantly don't labour it. Somewhere inbetweeen dare. Use the gearbox rather than straining tut enjun.

Behold the joys of graphogen. It will get you through these nervous times. :0)

From memory, same here really.  Think I limited my rev limit at around 5000rpm for a while, but I did use the gears a lot so often going up n down in revs.  That said I only really changed the gearbox and did a top end refurb, didn't do the bottom end at all.

[dablik]

Lots of info out in interweb land and it's a matter of sorting the shoite from the good, when it goes out i'll be careful but once i know it's running okay it can have a few beans up to about the same, 5k, your's ran fine after that brake in method..

[Catteeclan]

If is any help, I've rebuilt a few cars and bike engines over the years and always had good results after being told what to do by a pro engine builder. (With the exception of one of my dominator engines, oil burner from day one).
Avoid high revs and load up though the gears.
The prob here is you need to be easy on the crank etc but want that extra compression push those rings out to bed asap.
Machining is so much better now and when to see them thrashing a new bike on the end of the production line on the dyno, I still cringe but you can bet them rings are sweet afterwards.

Edited by Catteeclan, 19 May 2020 - 08:10 am.

[leehenty]

Use a cheaper mineral oil to break in the rings,modern synthetic oils are so good the rings won't knock the high spots off the bores. At least mineral is cheap as you will change it after a few hundred miles anyway.

[drewpy]

Use a cheaper mineral oil to break in the rings,modern synthetic oils are so good the rings won't knock the high spots off the bores. At least mineral is cheap as you will change it after a few hundred miles anyway.

I agree Lee, who makes running in oil nowadays ?

[leehenty]

Miller's still do it.
https://www.opieoils...engine-oil.aspx

[dandywarhol]

Good advice. KTM still break in their engines with mineral for 1000 km then change to fully synth 10W/60

[PICARD]

Miller's still do it.https://www.opieoils...engine-oil.aspx

Used to work for company who sold oil additive packages to millers. Good quality generally.

[Studley Ramrod]

I heard on Gas Monkey Garage, that running in oils have a lot more zinc content.  They know that as they used ordinary oil to run in a non-run in new engine and it started making horrible grinding noises.

[leehenty]

Lots of zinc is an anti seize compound

[Studley Ramrod]

That's exactly what the Gas Monkey Garage mechanics found out. lol

[dablik]

i've got running in oil in the bike, Westway lubricants..

 

Was hopeful of a start up today but carbs decided to overflow, left bowl so took bowls off and floats out for a look see, nice and springy, back in but swapped the float bowls over, much easier access to the overflow bolts now

still leaking left side (different bowl) from the actual joint overflow, off again and a muck about but no joy, gently pumped a little air thinking maybe the floats were a bit sticky, nowt happening

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So took em off, to much hassle to check fuel heights on the bike with me poor old back so bench tested

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Left side okay, right side was a bit low initially till i tapped it a bit and now it's showing level and no leaks fernickety fookers

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and the bowl overflow hoses are to short so here's one i made earlier

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[Studley Ramrod]

Another day spent fettlin' eh Cliff.  Pain innit ?

[dablik]

It's a pain alright, unbelievable amount of work and this is what i mean by one step forward and two back, never mind eh, getting closer all the time, i put the tiniest amount of silicone grease on the float bowl orings just to ease em in and i reckon it stuck them good..

[dapleb]

Imagine how it is possible to do a rebuild commercially to any level of care and attention and make any money!

Has come a long way dabbers.

[wicklamulla]

It's a pain alright, unbelievable amount of work and this is what i mean by one step forward and two back, never mind eh, getting closer all the time, i put the tiniest amount of silicone grease on the float bowl orings just to ease em in and i reckon it stuck them good..

 

 

ja tink the fuel will wash that sillycone grease out and all will be golden (loike a shower)?

[MickC]

When I rebuilt my MK2 SEP refubed the crank,I put new rings in /hone, when started I let it tick over for about 5secs to listen to it and then started to blip it on the throttle for about a minute to put some pressure ot the rings,then got me gear on and went out on it,3 thou limit in the lower gears and 3 1/2 in top.Accellerate quicky up to the rev limit and also shut the throttle when at max revs as I understand you will put as much pressure on the rings decellerating as acellerating (dont do this if someones behind you)

Dont use synthetic oil as too slippery for run in basic mineral as Lee has said,changed it after 130 miles,new filter and full synth went in revs up to 4 and 4 1/2 in top and as the miles went up just increased the rev limit.

Changed the oil at 500ish miles and baisicaly that was it for running in just ride normally and give it some welly at times for a brief few seconds.

Bike burns no oil at all and runs ok.

Before starting I had turned it over to flow oil through.

[PICARD]

Lots of zinc is an anti seize compound

80x25kg bags of zinc oxide powder into the reactor via manway.....it's all coming back to me.....(I was much younger then!!)