113 replies to this topic

[jono49]

Some more pics if anyone is still unsure of how it all works and which way it comes out etc!.....I was lucky!

 

[attachment=5542:DSCF0107.JPG]

[attachment=5543:DSCF0108.JPG]

[attachment=5544:DSCF0113.JPG]

[attachment=5545:DSCF0115.JPG]

 

And before anyone asks......Of course I start it up with the zoorsts off.....the voices made me do it!

Edited by jono49, 13 July 2016 - 09:44 pm.

[Catteeclan]

Of course I start it up with the zoorsts off.....the voices made me do it!

Got to be a bloke thing.

[leehenty]

looks nice, corrosion free and well oiled. Of course you need to start her up without pipes on. We all do it, sort of getting touch with your inner child

[tomwal]

I want to do this to my bike but I am a bit apprehensive and have some questions,

 

Do I have to remove both exhausts and the rear wheel to get

at the rear suspension bushes ?

 

What sort of grease should I use ?

 

I think this is a very informative and useful thread - maybe it should be put in the Knowledgebase section.

[Retro]

I want to do this to my bike but I am a bit apprehensive and have some questions,

 

Do I have to remove both exhausts and the rear wheel to get

at the rear suspension bushes ?

 

What sort of grease should I use ?

 

I think this is a very informative and useful thread - maybe it should be put in the Knowledgebase section.

Its possible to do it without removing the wheel/exhaust. If youve got arms like a gibbon. Its a very tight fit to get the puller in the bush with the silencer pipe in place.  I stripped everything off. You've got good access to all the bolts in the linkage and gave the area a good clean of years of oily crud.

I used lithium based high temp grease

[tomwal]

Its possible to do it without removing the wheel/exhaust. If youve got arms like a gibbon. Its a very tight fit to get the puller in the bush with the silencer pipe in place.  I stripped everything off. You've got good access to all the bolts in the linkage and gave the area a good clean of years of oily crud.

I used lithium based high temp grease

Retro, Thanks for your reply. I will do as instructed and get myself some of that grease.

Thanks again.

[TDMTAM]

 
Do I have to remove both exhausts and the rear wheel to get
at the rear suspension .

Yes if you want to have any knuckles left.
Tam

[tr7dan]

Is there anybody who hasn't done their suspension maintenance this xmas break ? 

 

Did mine including swingarm off, shock off and a full check and grease up. Reassembled now and all clean, bright and lightly oiled as they say....

 

 

..... also, when I have everything tightened up I give the whole gubbins a good spray with ACF50 - did this last time (3 years ago) and there was nil corrosion found on this strip down

 

I also took the chain off and cleaned it link by link on the bench and then measured the stretch as per the book - all fine and the sprockets are showing minimal wear - not bad for 20k miles. Just starting to get very smug with myself and thought ah, I'll just stick a mic on the rear disc..... aarg, goddammit !! 0.175 in brings it just under permissible wear, I just knew there would have to be something..... 

 

 

...... cheapest place for a new genuine Yam rear disc - anyone ?

 

Dan

 

 

[Catteeclan]

That disc looks fine in the pic, back look much worse?

[tr7dan]

That disc looks fine in the pic, back look much worse?

 

er.. that is the rear disc. At that measurement it's less than 4.5mm thick which, I think, is out of spec...... innit ? 

 

Dan

[jono49]

This might be a little more than some aftermarket items, but made in Italy makes it the real deal, and being an advocate of Brembo pads and swear by them this would be my choice!

But personally I think threre's loads more life in that disc?

 

0.175in = 0.44450cm

Surely thats splitting hairs?.....Oh and I love that Moore and Wright micrometer

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d4188ca49

Edited by jono49, 03 January 2015 - 11:28 pm.

[TDMick]

There doesn't appear to be a lip on that disc, so I'd say it was OK (IMHO).

 

Detail from a 2002 service manual

 

Brake discs 

Diameter thickness - 245mm x 5mm

Min. thickness 4.5 mm

Max. deflection 0.1 mm

[tr7dan]

This might be a little more than some aftermarket items, but made in Italy makes it the real deal, and being an advocate of Brembo pads and swear by them this would be my choice!

But personally I think threre's loads more life in that disc?

 

0.175in = 0.44450cm

Surely thats splitting hairs?.....Oh and I love that Moore and Wright micrometer

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d4188ca49

 

 

Cheers Jono

 

... I wish I could say that I'd had the micrometer since I was an apprentice and had put that 'workshop worn' look on it over the years but.... truth is - I bought it second hand at the Stafford classic show for a tenner a few years ago. I figured that a well used but cared for Moore and Wright that still zeroes perfectly is gonna be better than one of the junky Chinese items that are peddled today...

 

I'll check the price of a Yam disc at my local dealers see how it compares with the Brembo. I don't spend a lot on the bike really so I tend to go for genuine Yam spares when needed. 

 

There's a definite lip on the edge of the disc which doesn't really show in the pic and I think, when new, the disc is 5mm thick so the question is - how thin would you go ? The FSM says 4.5mm minimum so technically I'm already below that ? 

 

Dan

[wicklamulla]

 

Funny you should post this. I've just been up in the mancave doing mine.

I bought the rawplugs, brought them home but bugga me I bought the wrong size. Totally pissed off at that point.

Any hows up, thought I'd just gently tap an old disposible large phillips screwdriver into the centre hole to see if I could rotate the bush. It spun at first twist and I was even able to draw out the bush using the interference fit of the screwdriver.

All bushes and bearings checked for wear (all perfick) and then lathered in molybdium grease and reassembled.

Hardest job was getting the rear wheel back in !!

 

This was at 39k, but like you I have always been liberal with spray grease and wd40 to the outside of the pivots.

 

Result, one healthy TDM and one happy bunny.

 

Pity I'm on the wagon this month, I could have had a celebratery drink :-(

 

 

 

Just read all the posts regarding this task and i'm impressed and happy for Lee as i reckon he was loosing sleep over this stubborn bush.     Big Dave have you still got yer original 900 ?   You were lucky to get it all apart without too much heart/ball ache.      

 

LeeHenty is it better to do this job once a year for peace of mind and would you consider tapping all the linkages out for grease nipples?  (not as easy as it sounds i bet)

[gabby]

Hi. Jumped on the site to find something else and spotted this topic, the job I did a few days ago. So thought I would share my finding. The bike has about 30,000km on it and was last seen by a dealer a couple of years ago at 15k and this would/should have been part of the service. There was plenty of grease in all the bearings so no problem there.

 

But the bolt on the bottom of the dogbones was seized inside the bush on the relay arm. It came out without a lot of trouble but if it had been left much longer it would have been a different story. That wouldn't stop you getting the bush out of the bearing of course, but it's not good. So I got some anti-seize in there and will make a point of checking it more frequently that the rest of the suspension to see how it goes. No sign of any other problems so perhaps that one just gets more spray on it.  

 

The job itself was easy. No real need for the exhaust off (unless you have a problem such as the one which started this topic). The rawl bolt to pull the bush from the front mount is a good idea but I used some rubber tube and a couple of washers and nuts to expand it (works like a well nut). Works if it's not badly seized.

 

But as mentioned plenty of times here, it's something that really needs to be checked.

[jono49]

I think commuters who use their bikes all year bikes, it would be prudent to make this an annual event

Edited by jono49, 04 January 2015 - 09:03 am.

[big dave]

 

 

 

   Big Dave have you still got yer original 900 ?   You were lucky to get it all apart without too much heart/ball ache.      

 

 

Hi Wicky, happy new year

 

yup still have the old girl, can't sell it apparently, so it looks as though she may be a keeper.

 

suppose the ease of disassembly reflects its spoilt life

 

alsithi

[leehenty]

 

 

 

Just read all the posts regarding this task and i'm impressed and happy for Lee as i reckon he was loosing sleep over this stubborn bush.     Big Dave have you still got yer original 900 ?   You were lucky to get it all apart without too much heart/ball ache.      

 

LeeHenty is it better to do this job once a year for peace of mind and would you consider tapping all the linkages out for grease nipples?  (not as easy as it sounds i bet)

the problem is the alloy frame grips the outside of the bush with corrosion. I would  make greasing this bush an annual event when you do your service.

Getting grease nipples in the other bearings would be ok on the long ones with separated bearings and a gap in the middle, but no go on the short ones as the bearing cylinder would block the grease nipple hole. best give it love and grease each year before you store it away over winter.

[tomwal]

I bought M6 expansion bolt from Wickes - it looks like the right thing but  it is  too large to fit. I thought if it was M6 it would be OK - does it have to be a Rawl. bolt ?

The other two bushes came out easily so I hope the problem one will probably come out with the correct puller.

[steve27bha]

I bought M6 expansion bolt from Wickes - it looks like the right thing but  it is  too large to fit. I thought if it was M6 it would be OK - does it have to be a Rawl. bolt ?

You need the correct type of Rawlbolt, the tubular one not the cast.

See pix and comment in this post by me last year:-

http://www.carpe-tdm...=29452&p=291710