278 replies to this topic

[fixitsan]

 

I already saw this mod but afair it was on an older post than 2014... or maybe I have some memory troubles !

 

With this mod things are different because each intake pipe has its own air filter.

Each air filter element is acting as a pressure wave damper and in this case there is no coupling between both pipes - or this is really bad luck !

 

 

I guess as long as it works, it works !

[JBX]

I'm pretty sure it works only when the bike is upside-down !

[frits44]

Good morning,

 

I forgot to say that you do not need a power commander to let your bike run very fine.

 

I am not using a power commander so here is the proof look at my video above in my earlier message.

 

I also find it very sad that some people use very difficult words normal people do not understand that.

 

The same is going on on the site in Holland TDM/TRX site, difficult words who noboby understands.

 

It can be done and in a VERY SIMPLE WAY.

 

So I want to ask al of you, try too HELP people who have problems with there bikes so the understand what to do to fix it.

 

WE all can help  so lets do that and use the great info thats on this site.

 

Many thanks for the help you gave me.

 

Greetings,Frits from Holland

[arthurbikemad]

As I changed my setup the feeling changed too Fritz, at one point it was very good with no Power commander, when I added the cans it felt very flat, it was hard to ride in the 1500-2500 rev rangein town, in my case the only real option at that time was to fit the powercommander and load a base map, it was much better, later on I mapped it and now it is VERY smooth, mine was running very lean before mapping.

[Hombre]

Having just put a deposit down on a niner, this thread makes me worried that my change from my Mk1 will be for the worst!

 

I would like to make one point though: as there is no CO sensor fitted to the bike then the numbers at C1 & C2 are just numbers relating to the ECU metering of fuel.  It is the CO in each exhaust that should be equal (as measured by the workshop tool) and if the numbers of C1 & C2 are equal after that then it is coincidence.

[frits44]

Arthurbikemad,

 

I am very glad that your bike runs good too.

 

It has always bin a sport of mine to look for the cheap way to solve things 

 

you always can go the expansive way.

 

So i say to myself after asking more then 20 people how to solve the jerkiness from the TDM 900.

 

NOBODY give me the right answer to do so, so it was solved for 100%.

 

I did it myself by reading and learning and doing things in a logic way.

 

In my country the tell you that iridium spark plugs, open exhaust, K&N filter, higher CO. will solve the problem.

 

That is a BIG lie, because iridium spark plugs do not help only last longer, K&N filter are worse and very noisy and very expansive

 

open exhaust are bad no back pressure at all, higher CO is good.

 

I did my exhaust mod for a little bit more noise ( sounds like a ducatie now )

 

This is the way I am thinking, you can change your bike the way you want it too be.

 

The law and the producer Yamaha created a system on our bikes that is not good .( too lean in fuel )

 

SO WE FIX IT THAT IT IS RUNNING GOOD.

 

Every body have FUN with your bike and FUCK the law.

 

I am not a mechanic it is my hobby, I am a house painter for a living.

 

Greetings ,Frits from Holland

[dablik]

Well look what's shown up on ebay.....you making these Frits    

[fixitsan]

Thems big bucks for two thermistors !

I came across an early page of the designers website sowing how it all worked. He used a commonly practiced technique of using two thermistors in parallel... but its actually nothing new..... surprised by the price but it is only business !

Having just put a deposit down on a niner, this thread makes me worried that my change from my Mk1 will be for the worst!
 
I would like to make one point though: as there is no CO sensor fitted to the bike then the numbers at C1 & C2 are just numbers relating to the ECU metering of fuel.  It is the CO in each exhaust that should be equal (as measured by the workshop tool) and if the numbers of C1 & C2 are equal after that then it is coincidence.

Perfectly summed up Hombre....and you will enjoy the 9er

[Studley Ramrod]

Not when he compares low speed running to his mk1.

[frits44]

dablik,

 

I know I did see  it too on the net.

 

Read this one,

 

http://memjet.hu/ind...id=65&Itemid=63

 

It really help you to give a little bit more fuel.

 

This is what it WILL do.

 

Think about this: you are driving with your TDM 900 in a very cold country.

 

What are your sensors doing now???

 

Air temp sensor measures very cold air, give a signal too the ECU, the ECU thinks it is cold air, ECU gives a little bit more fuel,

 

the ignition helps by coming in earlier to burn the extra fuel, too much fuel or air will be correct by the lambda sonde ( sensor in your exhaust ).

 

Am I right or wrong ??

 

A very good tuner told my that it works that way. 

 

So I did measure my air  sensor and gave my bike a 6K Ohm resistance 0,25 watt, 5volt ( It is not to much you can do 8,5 K Ohm/ minus 20 degrees )

 

I am doing almost the same as you with your bike in a very cold country.

 

I hope you understand. People with bikes are using this trick for over 20 year now.also cars.

 

It is a cheap trick to get a little bit more fuel.( much better acceleration ) 

 

I also did this mod. because I modified my stock exhaust ( half open now) and I did lose a bit

 

back pressure. So I have too give my engine a little bit more fuel to correct it .

 

Do not get me wrong, I do not want to tune my machine, I only want it to drive nice also in low RPM.

 

THe hole system works because it is all in the system of the bike ECU.

 

One thing you must do is, do not drive for a very long time in the city or short tracks.

 

Some times you must drive on the highway to burn your engine clean in site, just like a car turbo diesel burn it clean on the highway .

 

Greetings,Frits from holland

[fixitsan]

Not when he compares low speed running to his mk1.

He wont run at low speeds as much as he does with the mk1 though

[dablik]

Frits i think it's fine, you have to make your bike how you want it to be, my post is not meant to be negative in anyway, i think it's good you have managed to improve your bike to suit your needs, my bike is doing okay stock but, only because i have no desire to change anything, the only place it really annoys me is on tight hairpin bends and they come along far to infrequently to be bothered....keep up the good work, i'm sure somebody will follow in your foot steps, but one thing you should know, it's never cold in the UK 

[muddy]

only place it really annoys me is on tight hairpin bends and they come along far to infrequently to be bothered....keep up the good work, i'm sure somebody will follow in your foot steps, but one thing you should know, it's never cold in the UK 

Me too. What does show up the problem is the rise in the construction of these smaller roundabouts in place of lights. Bloody bike is horrible on these, embarrassingly so.

[JBX]

Not when he compares low speed running to his mk1.

 

Mk1 was made for low speed.

9er is made for high speed.

Well look what's shown up on ebay.....you making these Frits    

 

Free shipping, that's a bargain !!! 

[JBX]

dablik,

 

I know I did see  it too on the net.

 

Read this one,

 

http://memjet.hu/ind...id=65&Itemid=63

 

It really help you to give a little bit more fuel.

 

This is what it WILL do.

 

Think about this: you are driving with your TDM 900 in a very cold country.

 

What are your sensors doing now???

 

Air temp sensor measures very cold air, give a signal too the ECU, the ECU thinks it is cold air, ECU gives a little bit more fuel,

 

the ignition helps by coming in earlier to burn the extra fuel, too much fuel or air will be correct by the lambda sonde ( sensor in your exhaust ).

 

Am I right or wrong ??

 

A very good tuner told my that it works that way. 

 

So I did measure my air  sensor and gave my bike a 6K Ohm resistance 0,25 watt, 5volt ( It is not to much you can do 8,5 K Ohm/ minus 20 degrees )

 

I am doing almost the same as you with your bike in a very cold country.

 

I hope you understand. People with bikes are using this trick for over 20 year now.also cars.

 

It is a cheap trick to get a little bit more fuel.( much better acceleration ) 

 

I also did this mod. because I modified my stock exhaust ( half open now) and I did lose a bit

 

back pressure. So I have too give my engine a little bit more fuel to correct it .

 

Do not get me wrong, I do not want to tune my machine, I only want it to drive nice also in low RPM.

 

THe hole system works because it is all in the system of the bike ECU.

 

One thing you must do is, do not drive for a very long time in the city or short tracks.

 

Some times you must drive on the highway to burn your engine clean in site, just like a car turbo diesel burn it clean on the highway .

 

Greetings,Frits from holland

 

There are some points that need to be clarified :

 

1 - On the 9er you may change the fuel-air ratio to get a rich or a lean mixture without anything else than pushing a few buttons - the CO setting. This setting was set by Yamaha to give a way to compensate for injectors and fuel pressure regulator variations along the production line. Having this setting easily accessible is really a good thing for us users, as we don't need to go for an expensive setting at the garage. I don't think many other bike manufacturers did the same.

 

2 - Having a fixed value resistor instead of a sensor is a trick I personally do not agree with. It may be used to replace a faulty sensor when you need to go back home, but on most injected engine there is a fail-safe value given by the ECU to allow the engine to work in a sort of "degraded" mode. This is the case on the 9er for all temperature & pressure sensors. One other known trick is to add a resistor in parallel with the sensor to send the ECU a lower figure than expected. This trick may work with good results for a temperature sensor, but only when the air temperature don't go to extremes. It could work in Holland (Barry Sheen once said during the Dutch GP that to figure out which seasons you're in, check a calendar) but this will not work in many other countries - at the place where I live the temperature goes from -20C to +40C. This is not the same in UK but sometime it can be very hot in summer. The problem is the same with the pressure sensors, in Holland the altitude on roads is mainly between -10 to 100m, here this is from 0 to 2800m.

I once rode the 9er under a heavy rain storm, the radiator was flooded by water projections. This lead to a lower coolant temperature than expected, the ECU thought that the engine was still warming-up. As a result, the ECU raised the mixture richness to a much higher value during all the trip. This gave the engine no more or less jerkiness than usual, it just raised the fuel consumption to excessive levels : 40% more !

 

3 - I don't focus on low revs that much for two reasons : first an internal combustion engine is designed to work with the higher efficiency at a rather high rpm. This is the rpm where the fuel consumption is the lower per bhp. Lower revs should be seen as a transitional time before reaching the higher revs, the main goal for an engine. The second reason is that low revs put more stress on the camchain, this is even more the case on the 10 valve engine. This is due to the lower rotational inertia at low revs on the camshafts which apply an irregular resistive torque while the engine is giving an irregular power torque, but both curves don't match.

Edited by JBX, 11 May 2016 - 12:08 am.

[frits44]

JBX thanks for this info and your answer,

 

I realize that I am changing my machine with the mods. I did.

 

I also know that it is NOT good for the engine to run often in a very low RPM.

 

I only wanted too see if it can be done, and it did the machine can do it.

 

Now I can drive in slow traffic when needed.

 

Most of the time I ride long roads for fun sometimes for work.

 

My fuel consumption has not changed is still with hard drive 1 liter fuel 19 km, very slow drive 1 liter fuel 24,8.

 

So that did not change, I am very glad with my results.

 

I hoop that you all will think again, that Yamaha  mate a mistake with the cover of the air box.

 

It is possible, producers of cars and motorcycles make more mistakes.

 

I had good luck to find it by looking at the cover of the air box, and I was thinking that the air flow can do better.

 

That is why I did it, AND IT IS GREAT how it works.

 

I also learned myself not to think very difficult, START WITH THE BASIC THINGS thats what the tuner also said too me.

 

Again it works and I did it by reading and asking questions to learn, and I did it in two months .

 

I am just trying to help because this issue is going on for 15 years now.

 

The way I am thinking. MY PROBLEM IS SOLVED and I now can enjoy my bike for 100%.

 

Again many thanks too all of you for all the info you gave me.

 

By the way: The TDM 900 is created by YAMAHA too ride in every country, if it is cold or hot he can do it easy.

 

Greetings,Frits from Holland

[frits44]

I forgot to say,

 

In my country people use the trick with the air sensor on the race track ( hobby drivers on the race track)

 

The use a switch to switch to normal or to use the mod with the sensor ( resistance).

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

[fixitsan]

Frits if you use a second ntc thermistor, instead of the resistor, the temperature response is much improved

[frits44]

HELP,

 

Yesterday I got help to measure my CO in my exhaust.

 

The mechanic of my subaru forester told my he can do it or try it, I said oke.

 

He used a big machine who can measure a lot of things.

 

I do not now this and never did it.

 

Hot engine long pipe in my end exhaust hit the throttle a view times and this value come on. CO in both exhausts 2,75 % by 1200 rpm.

 

Is this good or wrong ??????

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

fixitsan good morning,

 

Frits if you use a second ntc thermistor, instead of the resistor, the temperature response is much improved 

 

Explain i to me, I do not unterstand and I am just out of bed.

 

 

Frits,

JBX thanks for this info and your answer,

 

I realize that I am changing my machine with the mods. I did.

 

I also know that it is NOT good for the engine to run often in a very low RPM.

 

I only wanted too see if it can be done, and it did the machine can do it.

 

Now I can drive in slow traffic when needed.

 

Most of the time I ride long roads for fun sometimes for work.

 

My fuel consumption has not changed is still with hard drive 1 liter fuel 19 km, very slow drive 1 liter fuel 24,8.

 

So that did not change, I am very glad with my results.

 

I hoop that you all will think again, that Yamaha  mate a mistake with the cover of the air box.

 

It is possible, producers of cars and motorcycles make more mistakes.

 

I had good luck to find it by looking at the cover of the air box, and I was thinking that the air flow can do better.

 

That is why I did it, AND IT IS GREAT how it works.

 

I also learned myself not to think very difficult, START WITH THE BASIC THINGS thats what the tuner also said too me.

 

Again it works and I did it by reading and asking questions to learn, and I did it in two months .

 

I am just trying to help because this issue is going on for 15 years now.

 

The way I am thinking. MY PROBLEM IS SOLVED and I now can enjoy my bike for 100%.

 

Again many thanks too all of you for all the info you gave me.

 

By the way: The TDM 900 is created by YAMAHA too ride in every country, if it is cold or hot he can do it easy.

 

Greetings,Frits from Holland

 

fixitsan good morning,

 

Frits if you use a second ntc thermistor, instead of the resistor, the temperature response is much improved 

 

Explain i to me, I do not unterstand and I am just out of bed.

Sorry I am doing something wrong over here

[fixitsan]

Frits does your exhaust still have catalytic convertors in them