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#81 frits44

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 07:21 am

Frits does your exhaust still have catalytic convertors in them

 

fixitsan good morning,

 

No, I removed the cat. in my exhaust.



#82 dablik

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 09:08 am

 

There are some points that need to be clarified :

 

 

2 - Having a fixed value resistor instead of a sensor is a trick I personally do not agree with. It may be used to replace a faulty sensor when you need to go back home, but on most injected engine there is a fail-safe value given by the ECU to allow the engine to work in a sort of "degraded" mode. This is the case on the 9er for all temperature & pressure sensors. One other known trick is to add a resistor in parallel with the sensor to send the ECU a lower figure than expected. This trick may work with good results for a temperature sensor, but only when the air temperature don't go to extremes. It could work in Holland (Barry Sheen once said during the Dutch GP that to figure out which seasons you're in, check a calendar) but this will not work in many other countries - at the place where I live the temperature goes from -20C to +40C. This is not the same in UK but sometime it can be very hot in summer. The problem is the same with the pressure sensors, in Holland the altitude on roads is mainly between -10 to 100m, here this is from 0 to 2800m.

I once rode the 9er under a heavy rain storm, the radiator was flooded by water projections. This lead to a lower coolant temperature than expected, the ECU thought that the engine was still warming-up. As a result, the ECU raised the mixture richness to a much higher value during all the trip. This gave the engine no more or less jerkiness than usual, it just raised the fuel consumption to excessive levels : 40% more !

 

 

A month ago i travelled up the Motorway to Scotland in ever decreasing temperatures, going from breezy to chilly to cold and, hit reserve at 120 ish miles, which is the 1st time that ever happened, i may of being going a little bit faster than normal !! next day (warm day) fuel consumption back to normal, so i'm assuming this is an explanation of that ?? Stock bike, no mods.


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#83 frits44

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 09:12 am

ECU flashing TDM900?????

 

There are a lot of restrictions on the TDM 900 if I see this page.

 

Too difficult for me SORRY.

 

http://www.ecu-flash...yamaha-tdm-900/

 

 

Greetings Frits from Holland



#84 fixitsan

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 09:45 am

ECU flashing TDM900?????

 

There are a lot of restrictions on the TDM 900 if I see this page.

 

Too difficult for me SORRY.

 

http://www.ecu-flash...yamaha-tdm-900/

 

 

Greetings Frits from Holland

 

 

I have seen this Frits. There is a message thread here.... http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=32724

 

I used some free software to download the maps and ECU data from my ECU. The author of the software wants $250 to turn on the program section which allows me to reload my own modified files ;)

 

Samios Motorsport in Greece will also flash your ECU. For 250 Euro I do not know anyone who has had it done

 

It seems that ECU with part numbers ending with '-01' can be flashed very easily. Later versions are more difficult.

 

There are limits on every bike these days, most in gear 1-3 or 1-4. This allows the control of noise, emissions, and makes the vehicle easier to ride for people with no experience . No wheelies allowed !  The limit is often implimented by retarding the ignition timing

 

 

I was going to get an ECU remap, but after advancing my ignition timing by 4 degrees I am much happier with the way the bike runs. So I spend my money on something else :)

 

 

I advanced the timing by cutting slots in the crank position sensor...see here http://www.carpe-tdm...=32724&p=330529


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#85 frits44

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 07:42 pm

Oke now I understand  what flashings is THANKS.

 

This is what I did today,

 

I removed the resistance from my air temp sensor too see if its running fine without it, and with my new mod on the cover of the air box

 

Its is still GREAT how my machine runs, it can still drive the same as in the video I made.

 

Still very smooth and a bit less aggressive in acceleration, but it also pulls now from 3000 rpm much better.

 

I also tested this. CO on 25/25. In every gear driving with only 2000 rpm. 1,2,3,4,5 was good 6 gear not to low power.

 

I changed my CO to 50/50 test again . in every gear driving 2000 rpm . 1,2,3,4,5,6 good  57 km 2000 rpm 6 gear, he can do it no problem

 

No problems in very low RPM . I am beginning  to love my bike.

 

 

another test I did: I drive in 6 gear 3000 rpm  my bike has much vibrations. CO 25/25

 

Test again now CO on 50/50 vibrations gone by 3000 rpm in 6 gear, very nice 

 

Yes I now it is not good for the bike but can he do it YES HE CAN.  I AM VERY HAPPY NOW

 

I really think  that the mod on the cover of the air box I did, is the best thing too do with your bike and easy too do.

 

Because I am still driving with no resistance  in every gear in very low rpm wen needed without any problems at all.

 

For me it is the best thing I found too improve my bike and too help too getaway the jerkiness for FREE

 

It is true  that we all where looking at the wrong place the fuel part, IT IS THE AIR PART.

 

Here are pics of my mod with the cover of the air box. 

 

Look at all my pictures and you will see what I mean.

 

 

http://s1175.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0

 

 

People I can only say use it or try it I am sure you will thank my for it, I was lucky too find IT

 

Many thanks for the info and enjoy your bike 

 

greetings Frits from Holland



#86 fixitsan

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 08:03 pm

Frits did you try to run the bike with no airbox cover at all ?

 

EG - only the air filter, screws to hold it in place, no airbox cover...   ?


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#87 frits44

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 06:25 am

Frits did you try to run the bike with no airbox cover at all ?

 

EG - only the air filter, screws to hold it in place, no airbox cover...   ?

Yes I did a short test ride in my street to see if it works little bit more noise from the filter.

 

I used  a piece of duck tape around the air box too keep the filter in place.

 

I am telling you people this is THE MODIFICATION TOO DO.

 

Modify your cover of the air box and you have a Perfect bike too ride WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS.

 

I also did see that before my modification there was a little bit of oil on the bottom of the air box.( new bike ????? )

 

I did clean that and was asking myself how can  there be oil, my answer is now VACUUM.

 

yesterday I took the cover of again too fix things and test ride, the bottom of the air box is DRY , so no vacuum.

 

The original cover of the air box creates a vacuum somehow so  it sucks  the air out of the engine.

 

AND THAT IS NOT GOOD AT ALL. But we fixed it and I am still very glad with this modification.

 

People I cannot say it enough. MODIY YOUR COVER OF THE AIR BOX.

 

fixitsan I am very glad for you too that your machine is running fine too.

 

Today I am going too try how my CO is in my exhaust with my new settings of: Co. c1 50, c2 50. ( was c1 25, c2 25 )

 

Again I thank everybody for the help and info.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland



#88 Bjørge

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 06:31 am

I also did see that before my modification there was a little bit of oil on the bottom of the air box.( new bike ????? )

 

I did clean that and was asking myself how can  there be oil, my answer is now VACUUM.

 

There is the crancase breather hose from the rocker cover leading gas and stuff into the air filter for burning instead of letting out in free air. Can sometimes make a mess, but in little amounts.


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#89 frits44

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 06:36 am

Look close at the pictures a made you can do it yourself if you want and it is FREE

 

http://s1175.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0

 

Cover air box modification TDM 900.

 

Excuses for my bad english but I hope that every body understands it what I am trying too say and do.

 

A wish every body a nice sunny day and enjoy your bike.

 

Greetings ,Frits from Holland


 

There is the crancase breather hose from the rocker cover leading gas and stuff into the air filter for burning instead of letting out in free air. Can sometimes make a mess, but in little amounts.

 

Good morning Bjorge,

 

I know that, but now it is gone for 99% . 

 

Many thanks for your answer.

 

Greetings Frits from Holland.



#90 fixitsan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:29 am

Yes i will try it when I get the chance Frits, the next time I remove the tank for maintenance probably

 

I think most of us have seen already many modifications to the airbox. Some of us have maybe had a vehicle which required that the original airbox be unmodified because alterations and changes caused worse performance.

 

However, i do also feel that our bikes, like many others, have the capacity to make a lot of noise and that is, as far as EU legislation goes not permissible. !  Hence why i think the airbox has such a massive volume of air inside and a relatively small air inlet.

 

But that also asks the question - why did Yamaha fit a restrictor in the airbox when they made the airbox flap. They say that it improves low speed running....but many of us disable it to get the bike to run better, so is the flap also there to act as a noise reduction device when driving at low to medium speeds in towns and cities ?

 

I suspect there may be benefits and disadvantages either way, and I have considered , many months ago, buying an airbox off ebay just for the purpose of modifying it and seeing if it made much difference.


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#91 fixitsan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:43 am

Frits.... did you see this airbox cover ?  Wow !

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...xwAAOSwrmdTrWlq

 

I would be concerned about water going directly into the filter element when it rains !


Edited by fixitsan, 12 May 2016 - 07:44 am.

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#92 fixitsan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:51 am

In the interests of science and fun.... I've just found a very cheap airbox so I've ordered it....it will give me the spare cover I need, and importantly one of each length of velocity stack/ intake snorkel, as a spare to play with... for trying two long ones together and two short ones.  Who knows ? It's cheap and not at all time consuming to try it!

 

Reports to follow :)


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#93 big dave

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 08:23 am

very interesting thread, but has anyone considered whether it could just be as simple as the HT leads arcing at low revs?


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#94 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 10:38 am

Good call Dave, any info that might help 999nutta sort his problem out will, I'm sure, be welcomed. :good:


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#95 muddy

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 01:10 pm

Frits did you try to run the bike with no airbox cover at all ?

 

EG - only the air filter, screws to hold it in place, no airbox cover...   ?

I think I'll try that out of curiosity next time I change the filter.


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#96 fixitsan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 01:22 pm

I think I'll try that out of curiosity next time I change the filter.

From what I've read elsewhere the bike will run quite lean. Adjusting CO values upwards will help at the lower end of the rev range.....not sure about the other end though

I think that at steady speeds the ecu will stay in closed loop control and take the oxygen sensor output into consideration, enriching the afr as it needs to

Edited by fixitsan, 12 May 2016 - 01:28 pm.

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#97 JBX

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 03:06 pm

From what I've read elsewhere the bike will run quite lean. Adjusting CO values upwards will help at the lower end of the rev range.....not sure about the other end though

I think that at steady speeds the ecu will stay in closed loop control and take the oxygen sensor output into consideration, enriching the afr as it needs to

 

The intake pressure sensor will take care of that "cover", this is the job it was designed for...

This sensor is located inside the intake duct and measures the difference with the current atmospheric pressure.

In case there is no air-filter element, the difference is zero, in case the air-filter element is very dirty the difference increases.

This information is used by the ECU to keep the mixture at the specified value, according to the state of the air-filter element.


Edited by JBX, 12 May 2016 - 03:08 pm.

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#98 frits44

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 03:49 pm

Frits.... did you see this airbox cover ?  Wow !

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...xwAAOSwrmdTrWlq

 

I would be concerned about water going directly into the filter element when it rains !

 

Now I have seen it too noise without cover I think,

 

You did good, try it and you know it, it only cost you a view euros and it is fun too do

 

With my cover it is NOT noisy, it can by with a K&N filter but that I do not no

 

I use that NIPPARTS filter J1321029 and is now a little bit noisy at full throttle. slow ride it is quiet.

 

Today I did a view tests.

 

I drive in 6 gear 3000 rpm with CO 25/25 a lot of vibrations from the bike

Same test now CO 50/50  6 gear 3000 rpm vibrations almost gone just a tiny bit 

 

Did some other testing to  slow drive city traffic goes perfect .

 

Fuel consumption  now with CO on 50/50  143 km : 5,8 =  24,65  not bad with all those crazy  tests I did.

 

It runs still fine and I am done now with the engine

 

Just one thing I want too do in the feature, hole new exhaust system. Thick and very long down pipes with short half open mufflers

 

Like some ducatie models have. VERY good for your torque in low RPM

 

Enjoy the weather it is hot over here 

 

Ride your bike save.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland



#99 Catteeclan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 06:04 pm

In the interests of science and fun.... I've just found a very cheap airbox so I've ordered it....it will give me the spare cover I need, and importantly one of each length of velocity stack/ intake snorkel, as a spare to play with... for trying two long ones together and two short ones.  Who knows ? It's cheap and not at all time consuming to try it!

 

Reports to follow :)

 

Snap, just won a box on Ebay to hack about.

I also like the look of them filters on Ad rider site.


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#100 fixitsan

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:11 pm

 

The intake pressure sensor will take care of that "cover", this is the job it was designed for...

This sensor is located inside the intake duct and measures the difference with the current atmospheric pressure.

In case there is no air-filter element, the difference is zero, in case the air-filter element is very dirty the difference increases.

This information is used by the ECU to keep the mixture at the specified value, according to the state of the air-filter element.

 

 

Is that the throttle body sensor you're talking about ? It must be, as I don't have a pressure sensor in my airbox, only an air temperature sensor.


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