137 replies to this topic

[fixitsan]

I lubed the fekin thing before I went out. It really isn't worth riding bikes in winter. Oh well there goes another £50 on a chain.
When on holibobs in Norfolk we went to Hunstanton to look at all the bikes on the sea front. Wonder if the salty air affects their chains

 

 

I keep a garden sprayer in the garage, when I get home I fill it with hot-ish water and spend 2 or 4 minutes rinsing all the important bits before putting the bike away. There is still salt there afterwards but it's heavily diluted...something like this...I spray it over the chain too and it seems to work for me.

http://www.ebay.co.u...vcAAOSwbYZXbGbA

[wicklamulla]

TinTin,   XS650 was chain drive only,  750/850 shaft.

[TinTin]

Oops. twas the XJ650  

[Catteeclan]

I lubed the fekin thing before I went out. It really isn't worth riding bikes in winter. Oh well there goes another £50 on a chain.
When on holibobs in Norfolk we went to Hunstanton to look at all the bikes on the sea front. Wonder if the salty air affects their chains

 

Don't think the bike are there long enough and most are cleaned once home after there 2 hour outing.

http://www.ebay.co.u...vcAAOSwbYZXbGbA

 

You must spend a lot of time on eBay. I'm just going to follow your posts and select everything i need.

 

I had one of these but the kids managed to break it. Think I'll be ordering one.

[wicklamulla]

Oops. twas the XJ650

got wan sat in me garage.  wood love a Halco Tuned/big bore kitted XS650 though.

[fixitsan]

 

 

 

You must spend a lot of time on eBay. I'm just going to follow your posts and select everything i need.

 

I had one of these but the kids managed to break it. Think I'll be ordering one.

 

 

No comment (feedback rating of 1700, I am ashamed !....quite a bit of selling there though) 

 

I got my sprayer from the local garden centre in winter when they were cheap due to a lack of gardening activity

 

 

As for chain maintenance, an application of  ACF50 does a good job for me, now and then over winter to keep rust off the side plates. Old engine oil too. 

 

A trick I once did which I heard about was to remove the chain, rinse well under the tap and then leave in a warm oven (less than 60 Celsius) for a few hours. The heat dries the water, softens the existing grease and allows it to spread a bit, and then drop the chain into a tub of waste oil and leave it overnight. I only did it the one time but it did seem to keep the chain in good order with additional periodic oiling oiling.

 

I've run bikes in winter for years, sometimes as a daily commuter, and just as other contributors have said, daily use is the best medicine. I suppose if you can't do that and you have a centre stad then run the bike up through the gears once a week, to keep the drive chain and all the oil seals between the links as well as the output shafts and wheel bearings alive. (Keep the front brake on etc etc)

[Victor]

What was the actual solution for the problem here? 

 

I think i have an similar problem. What i have done is! Cleaned the carbs, new viton seals, new needles, tubes and float height (15mm). And mixture screws 2,5 turns out. 

 

Im going to check for airleaks tomorrow, and then try to change the mixture screws a half turn extra out.

[Studley Ramrod]

There wasn't one to speak of Vic, it just got less noticeable the more I rode the bike.

 

Turning out the mixture screws might help.   3 turns out is standard setting.

[Victor]

3 turns out didnt solve anything, cant even tell if it got worse och better.

Im starting to wonder if the float height is to lean (15mm)? Because even if the bike is hot it will rev upp a lot, over 3000-4000 rpm if i pull out the choke maximum. 

 

Here is a new video from today. 

 

 

I hope its okay to post in your thread.

Edited by Victor, 05 June 2017 - 02:38 pm.

[Studley Ramrod]

When you're adjusting the pilot screws and/or doing a carb balance, you must have the engine up to temperature and then drop the tickover revs as far as possible without stalling the engine, before you make any adjustments. This way you can usually notice any changes you make.

 

Have you checked the condition of the choke plungers ?

[Victor]

Yes i have checked the chokeplungers, cant say they where to worn. Also checked the tank today, looks really clean and the filters where there.  

The thing is that this problem occured after my cleaning and rejetting of the carbs. 

[Studley Ramrod]

You could try turning the pilots out further.  Also, the pilot settings may differ, the key is to set them individually so you get each intake vacuum reading between 250-270mm Hg on the gauges with tickover as low as you can get it.

[Sidarta]

3 turns out didnt solve anything, cant even tell if it got worse och better.

Im starting to wonder if the float height is to lean (15mm)? Because even if the bike is hot it will rev upp a lot, over 3000-4000 rpm if i pull out the choke maximum. 

 

Here is a new video from today. 

 

 

I hope its okay to post in your thread.

Hi Victor!

 

There is a difference between our motorcycles.
Mine is an MKII (2001) and its MKI.
However, it appears that both have the same hose, which joins the two carburetors at the top through a T.
On the first disassembly, I did on the carburetors happened:
1) Disconnect the hose still on the T and see if it improves. If improper the hose must be clogged. You did not change that hose, by another one with cap at the end?

On another occasion, it happened again just like yours.
2) I discovered that it was an electrical fault, bad contact between the center whip and electric lash connected to the carburetor, left side.

 

Cheers!

[Victor]

You could try turning the pilots out further.  Also, the pilot settings may differ, the key is to set them individually so you get each intake vacuum reading between 250-270mm Hg on the gauges with tickover as low as you can get it.

Yes will try this, dont know if its possible to turn them mounted on the bike, very tight between the battery and the carburettors. Btw the fact that the bike "like" the choke, can it be a sign that the bike gets to much air? So it would be an idea to turn in the pilots to say 2 turns? 

 

Hi Victor!

 

There is a difference between our motorcycles.
Mine is an MKII (2001) and its MKI.
However, it appears that both have the same hose, which joins the two carburetors at the top through a T.
On the first disassembly, I did on the carburetors happened:
1) Disconnect the hose still on the T and see if it improves. If improper the hose must be clogged. You did not change that hose, by another one with cap at the end?

On another occasion, it happened again just like yours.
2) I discovered that it was an electrical fault, bad contact between the center whip and electric lash connected to the carburetor, left side.

 

Cheers!

Hi Sidarta, thanks for the advice! When you say disconnect the T hose you mean the one that lets air/gas out from the carburettors. Because the other hose is for the fuel intake. There is no electrics on MKI carbs. 

[Studley Ramrod]

Pilot screws can be adjusted without removing the carbs.  Take the battery and battery box out and there's enough room.

 

Turn screws out to richen the mixture.

[Sidarta]

Hi to all!

 

Hey Victor!

 

OK. I did not know that the MKI had no electrical part in the carburetor.

On my motorcycle the carburettors are attached at the top by a tube.

This tube divided in half into two parts, is joined by a rubber T.

At one end of the T, a hose comes out. Is not that hose clogged?
That's why I said, to remove the hose from the T and see if the bike runs free.

 

Cheers!

[fixitsan]

What was the actual solution for the problem here? 

 

I think i have an similar problem. What i have done is! Cleaned the carbs, new viton seals, new needles, tubes and float height (15mm). And mixture screws 2,5 turns out. 

 

Im going to check for airleaks tomorrow, and then try to change the mixture screws a half turn extra out.

 

Is the choke cable actuating screw set so far out that it is acting as the throttle stop ?

When you pull the choke out there should be a few millimetres of movement before the choke cable mechanism starts to take effect on the carbs/throttle linkage.

 

I could be wrong because I have forgotten the layout from my mk1, but I always like to have a small amount of free play on all cables when doing any carb adjustments, just to make sure that all levers are resting correctly on the true backstops

[Victor]

I Think i have found the problem! 

 

After a few comments on the youtube video i thought that i needed to double check my choke plungers. This is what i saw. The other one is much better but i also suspect the rubber gaskets from litetek, they are to chubby so they want to pop out. 

 

So now im going to order new choke plungers! 

[Studley Ramrod]

Deffo needs a new plunger eh.

 

I don't recall having a problem with the chubby rubberys, everything was a good fit on the mk2 carbs I fitted the kit to.

[Victor]

Maybe its just the plungers, i will triple check  . Where do i order new plungers?