282 replies to this topic

[Dickiebig]

Superb, site saved to browse properly 👍

[Studley Ramrod]

Had a quick browse of this webpage, might be helpful to you Dabs. S'all about CDI's and TCI's.  http://www.jetav8r.c...gnitionFAQ.html

[dablik]

Very good thanks    i'll get mine over to you soon, same addy i currently have ! 

 

Blimey a lot of info on that site, nice one, i know we always refer to the igniter as CDI but is'nt it actually a TCI as mentioned in the past by Dandy and JBX !

 

That's me evening reading sorted while Nadi watches shoite on tv 

Edited by dablik, 23 May 2021 - 11:53 am.

[dablik]

Got some replacement carb rubbers to try, as ya never know...

[Dickiebig]

Keep going you will get there !!

[Studley Ramrod]

Very good thanks    i'll get mine over to you soon, same addy i currently have ! 

 

Blimey a lot of info on that site, nice one, i know we always refer to the igniter as CDI but is'nt it actually a TCI as mentioned in the past by Dandy and JBX !

 

That's me evening reading sorted while Nadi watches shoite on tv 

 

Same addy.
Yes, I think it is.  I found the article from a links page on the Viton seals site Litetek.  It's got some handy tests you could try and some symptoms of a failing TCI.

[dablik]

[MickC]

My 10pence worth.

If your starting on choke and it cuts out shortly after, your plugs will be black as its running on choke all the time.

Check your air box I have had mice nests in mine and it does effect running,sucked a rag into a GS550 airbox once while i was riding it that coughed splutterd and banged untill I realised the rag around my tool kit (sat in front of the airbox opening) was missing.

If you are takeing ages to start it on choke you will have excess fuel in there and will backfire through carbs or pipe as the extra spark ignites it.

Start it without the airbox see if it makes any difference.

With no airbox get it to run and spray GT85 or WD40 in the carbs see if it revs up,spray around the inlet rubbers see if it revs up this is to detect leaks on the rubbers.

Carb /brake cleaner does the same but a bit on the violent side if it caches.

Try and get the revs up when it starts see if it will rev to help the burn.

I recently got a KLR600 cdi via EBay.....It seems as in this case a cdi can give a spark and yet not work its to do with the advance retard side of the cdi not working.Working one starts straight up ebay one has spark but no poping banging no start swapped them over at least 20 times nothing changed.

[dablik]

Cheers Mick, it's a bit to read back through but covered most of what you mention, have to tease it to keep revs up after a hard start and plugs were sooty black and dry.

 

Ignitor currently winging it's way to Studley furra test.

 

Lot's of electrics tested already, always up furranother check though, changed the ignition switch with a spare, new HT coil, need to check plug caps for resistance, forgot them and have new carb rubbers to swap out even though tested for leaks with propane torch, will try in the carbs while running though...

 

PS, all these happenings without airbox connected, all of Aux fuel supply..

Edited by dablik, 24 May 2021 - 06:06 pm.

[Studley Ramrod]

Here's another in-depth excellent read.   All about reading spark plugs.  http://www.crankshaf...ing_spark_plugs

[dablik]

Cheers mucka, been reading all sorts, some already about spark plugs but that looks a bit more in depth 

[Studley Ramrod]

Fitted Dabs TCI and my bike started up straight away, smooth as.  Fitted mine , same result.  Fitted Dabs, same result.  Fitted mine, spun over but wouldn't fire. Turned it on n off again, still no fire.  Could hear a sparky click coming from starter button.  Hit it a few times with ignition off, switched ignition on and it fired up fine.  Fitted Dabs, started fine.  Fitted mine, started fine.

I then used the kill switch, tried restarting and it wouldn't turnover.  Turned ignition off n on again and bike fired up.  Final try and all good.

 

Will post it back to you, today or tomorrow so should be with you Thursday at the latest.

[dablik]

Good news and thanks so much, so it's good then  funny that when you fitted yours 2nd time it only span up, same as with my loaner !!! i was reluctant to try the loaner to many times in case of  an unknown issue...

 

Okay some more checking to do..

 

Thanks again Ian, much obliged 

[Studley Ramrod]

Posted back 2u today, should be there tomato.   Yeah, I'm wondering if the TCI needs to reset or summat ?  Will have a read of that linkydink I posted up.

 

BTW I didn't notice the TCI getting warm although I didn't run the bike for too long.

[dablik]

Posted back 2u today, should be there tomato.   Yeah, I'm wondering if the TCI needs to reset or summat ?  Will have a read of that linkydink I posted up.

 

BTW I didn't notice the TCI getting warm although I didn't run the bike for too long.

 

Not sure how you would reset the TCI, i'll be having a read as well, think it's full of diodes !!!

 

Interesting as mine would get hot quite quickly which may be telling in itself, dodgy wire between TCI and somewhere possibly, wish i could drag Dave over with his expensive electric tester thingy's and knowledge...

[leehenty]

Check coil primary resistances

[dablik]

Will do Lee even though it's spankin new..

[dablik]

"

 

  Yeah, I'm wondering if the TCI needs to reset or summat ?  Will have a read of that linkydink I posted up"

 

Ignition on/off is all i can find, which is what you did..

[Studley Ramrod]

From the linkydink

 

At key on (or Run/Stop to on), you power up the TCI and coils. The TCI then shuts down since their is no engine rotation. This auto-shutdown is common in
all electric ingnition modules. It prevents the ignition from just sitting there powered up if the engine isn't running (which is bad for the transistors).
Since a normal CDI sends a short high voltage pulse to the coil, when it auto-shutsdown... nothing happens. BUT, the TCI is normally grounding both coils. It
fires them by momentarily disconnecting the ground. You see where this is going? When the TCI auto-shutsdown, it disconnects both coil grounds. And sure
enough, BOTH coils fire one spark out each plug.
Now, this same thing happens if you crank the engine (BUT IT DOESN'T START) and then let go of the starter. Since the engine stops rotating, the TCI shuts
off and.... you get a single spark. This explains why you get a DELAYED single misfire/backfire after cranking but get no start.Especially if the battery is
low. You have enough juice to crank but not for a good spark. Then you let go and get a GOOD full spark 2 seconds after as the TCI shutsdown. With fuel
vapor in the carbs... bang. AND, since you're getting 2 single sparksregardless of where the engine stops... you could get it in a cylinder "valved" open to the
exhaust which has fuel vapors in the muffler.... KA-POW!!
Now this is not the same "plug firing" you get IMMEDIATELY after letting go of the starter. In this case, you have managed to catch the timing just right.
The powerful ("non-loaded-starter-battery") spark just happens to take place at the correct moment as you let go of the starter.

#12=> TCI POWER ON TEST
You can test the basic properties of the TCI modules power-up/auto-shut (read #11 above!). This is same for both Front and Rear coils. Read Appendix on
Checking for Spark if not familiar.
top12.1[POWER-ON TEST AT SPARKPLUGS]
> Unplug Front/Rear plug wire , insert screw, and position near ground.
> Set Run/Stop switch to STOP. Then turn ignition key to ON.
> Every time you turn the Run/Stop switch from OFF to --> ON you should see
a single spark about 2 seconds after power-ON.
If you do not see this spark then:

> coil is bad (check/swap coils, etc...)
> pickup is bad (this will not happen with sensor disconnected from TCI which suggests to me that it will not work with a bad pickup either)
> TCI is bad

This section might also be relevant Dabs....

 

If you feel heat/warmth in any wire or connector something is not right !!.

This is hard to feel though (on a hot bike, on a hot day).
Your concern here is that the wiring in a circuit has gained some resistance of it own and is using up volts that would normallygo to the TCI or Coils or
whatever.
You check the end of a circuit with a meter and see +12 volts at the end. The whole circuit "path" is using and conducting 12 volts. BUT, the question is: what
is the voltage at any given point along the circuit path. If the wire going to the TCI uses 1 volt, then the TCI in the middle is using 11 volts. It adds up to 12,
but the TCI is NOT getting what it needs! Not good!
To check for voltage drops you need to hook the meter up "backwards" from what you'd normally do. You are checking points along the wire that are not a
full +12 volts. You do this by comparing it to a good +12 volts. SO... hook up the RED lead to +12 battery terminal. You know THAT is a GOOD +12 volts as
a reference point, right?. Now, use the black lead to check points along the circuit path.
If a test point is a good +12 volts you won't see anything ? You can't conduct +12 volts into +12 volts. But lets say a point onthe wire is 11 volts because a
previous connector is corroded and soaking up 1 volt.? You now will conduct 1 volt from the battery into the wire (there is a 1 volt potential difference). You
will see 1 volt on the meter.
Generally, you should see less than a 2% voltage drop in a good connection (=.02x12=1/4volt).
Again : You should not see voltage drops more than about 1/4 volt.

[dapleb]

Ferry useful SR.