i am only after the link pipes as i have a selection of different cans,i have looked on the web but can't fine anything yet.
Just found these http://predatormotor...8mm-2-O-D-PAIR/
Posted 28 January 2016 - 10:12 pm
i am only after the link pipes as i have a selection of different cans,i have looked on the web but can't fine anything yet.
Just found these http://predatormotor...8mm-2-O-D-PAIR/
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 30 January 2016 - 05:08 pm
Upgraded the LEDs in my handguards, they were pretty poor.
Old ones on the right guard (rider's right) new one on the left
Camera auto exposure making everything look brighter than in reality
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 31 January 2016 - 04:39 pm
Just finished valve clearance adjustment, and fired her up!
Still got bits and pieces to do, but engine sounds sweet.
Must admit, I'm struggling getting the airbox back on properly.
Must just add big THANKS to Dappers for the help with providing all the shims from the Carpe repository. Only 2 were not spot on in the end, but are now in spec.
All the clearances were tight in varying degrees. managed to swap 3 and remaining 7 supplied from dappers suppository collection......cheers fella!!
Posted 31 January 2016 - 06:00 pm
Went for a ride, and found that I'm still invisible !
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 31 January 2016 - 09:15 pm
you won't get a pair for a TDM for anything like that, you did well at £156 fixit. And they're good!
Got lucky just before Xmas and got a pair of Scorpion cans and link pipes in great condition for the TDM for £90.....haven't fitted them yet, just waiting for some nicer weather.
Be patient, plenty of cans on Ebay now and then.
Posted 31 January 2016 - 09:47 pm
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 01 February 2016 - 03:41 pm
Took the Mk1 for MOT passed no advisories, need to check battery charging rate a little high but battery voltage not confirming that.
For a challenging summer try the
Round Britain Rally.....
1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 .... 1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS, Triumph 5TA
Posted 01 February 2016 - 09:45 pm
Took the Mk1 for MOT passed no advisories, need to check battery charging rate a little high but battery voltage not confirming that.
Well done on the pass !
How do you know the charge rate is too high ? Are you reading an ammeter ? Or is the battery boiling dry ?
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 01 February 2016 - 09:52 pm
Reset the CO values to standard + 8 on both cyls
I have a theory that CO1 and CO2 are not a fuel/air mixture measurement or setting (CO usually refers to carbon monoxide doesn't it), but is 'COrrection' - in the same vain as when you replace a lot of different types of fuel injectors, you need to tell the ECU what the new injector's correction value is (difference from an ideal injector)....because every injector is created slightly differently and therefore they all flow slightly different rates
So when I started with +12,0 I have now added 8 to each because of the free flowing exhaust, to enrichen both cylinders by the same amount , to end up with +20,+8. Seems nice and smooth.
I had orignally set them both to +20, based on other people's comments, but it seems too 'monkey see, monkey do' now, so I'm giving this a try.
On the back of that, has anyone changed a throttle body/injector as per a Yamaha service guide....are you asked to enter CO values ?
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 01 February 2016 - 10:00 pm
Oh well, might have somethign else to consider..... I just found this on a Yamaha group with repsect to the R6...it seems they have C1 thru to C4 to play with, which might seem like cyl1 - cyl4.
But someone dug out an R6 OEM manual and found this.....
C1 and C2 focus on smaller throttle openings and a setpoint of 3000rpm....just where a lot of people complain about the running of the TDM900
Directly From the R6 OEM MANUAL for assembling the bikes
Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal
It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.
Guidelines for setting
• Code C1: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during
Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.
• Code C2: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and
throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any
changes.
• Code C3: At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.
• Code C4: At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle.
Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown.
Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended.
In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1
time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.
Edited by fixitsan, 01 February 2016 - 10:03 pm.
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 02 February 2016 - 01:06 pm
Have to admit this sort of stuff goes over my head but i seem to recall it being mentioned that both settings should be set at different levels due to the fact that the left cylinder gets more external airflow than the right side with the cam chain never touched mine as i dont really know what i would be trying to achieve and all seems to be working well just now.... it's all a mystery to me.
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead Gone to Heaven
1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space Gone to Heaven Sorted and on the Road Mick
it's the bike that Jack built
Posted 02 February 2016 - 04:24 pm
Have to admit this sort of stuff goes over my head but i seem to recall it being mentioned that both settings should be set at different levels due to the fact that the left cylinder gets more external airflow than the right side with the cam chain
never touched mine as i dont really know what i would be trying to achieve and all seems to be working well just now.... it's all a mystery to me.
I sionce found a Yamaha service manual for the FZ6, which says C1 is cylinders 1 & 4 , and C2 is cyls 2 & 3 . 2& 3 are in the middle of the engine, get hotter, and should therefore be set more rich. (or at least it should be a consideration. Setting leaner values increases heat.
Using that info and applying it to the TDM that would mean that the right cylinder gets hotter, and therefore should be set richer. As standard mine were set the opposite.
I'm still thinking along the lines that these values are merely trims for the injectors.......but then there are only 2 values to play with on the 4 cylinder FZ6 !
Also the TDM is water cooled so differences between cylinder temps are less likely to be huge when compared to an aircooled engine.
It seems fairly accepted that a higher value increase fuelling anyway, so I'll fall back on spark plug inspection and riding feel, and take it from there.
Today's job was to book an MOT for Friday morning. I'm on the nightshift this week so I'll ride it in just after work. Gives me a couple of days for minor fettling.
Edited by fixitsan, 02 February 2016 - 04:26 pm.
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 02 February 2016 - 06:14 pm
Fired up the mk1 today, 3 months since I last used it and it started fine.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
Posted 02 February 2016 - 06:27 pm
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 03 February 2016 - 05:39 am
Put a deposit down on a 1991 850. Hoping to pick up this weekend.
Project time ☺
Yea, I bet the 9'er really needs a good restoration. Hope you won't be too disappointed once you've sorted it !
Posted 03 February 2016 - 07:58 am
Posted 03 February 2016 - 11:44 am
Anyone know the standard CO settings?
There isn't a standard setting. We all seemed to have had different default settings. I've got mine written down somewhere.
Blue 04 TDM,PR2 rear Roadsmart front, Yamaha topox, Givi E360 panniers, PL pannier holders, BMW handguards, Yamaha touring screen, Scottoiler, 12v ciggie socket, carbon core HT leads
Gorn
Posted 03 February 2016 - 11:55 am
Anyone know the standard CO settings?
I believe they're different, because it all depends on the specification of the injectors, among other things.
If you change an injector on, say, a Fiat 1.9 diesel engine (electronic injectors) you need to take the calibration value sent with the injector and using your laptop punch it into the ECU, so that the ECU knows the true flow rate of the injector.
Most injectors produced by the same manufacturing lines will have slightly different flow rates. So for example a 1ms pulse duration to one injector might produce a 1ml volume discharge.....but on another injector it might produce 0.98ml and another might be 1.03ml.
To compensate for these differences injectors are often supplied with calibration values and I wouldn't be surprised at all if the CO settings are related to the injector calibration values in some way.
The ECU uses this compensation or calibration value when it commands the injector to open, such that if it wants, say 1ml of fuel to be discharged then instead of sending a 1ms pulse, and if the injector flows less than standard, the ECU sends a pulse which is slightly longer than normal to compensate for the difference. Likewise, if the new injector has a higher than standard flow rate
the ECU will compensate by commanding it to open for shorter durations than it would for a standard injector
But then again I haven't seen a service manual which covers injector replacement - that might be where we could find out for sure.
Have to admit, I've only got experience of this with high pressure diesel direct injection systems. Where injectors are trimmed up in the ECU, But after reading other Yamaha forums where people ask about the CO settings on their Yamaha, the same answers relating to manufacturing tolerances of the fuel injection/throttle body keep coming up too.
Here's a diesel based explanation ! http://pmmonline.co....ord-mondeo-2005
Edited by fixitsan, 03 February 2016 - 12:07 pm.
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
Posted 03 February 2016 - 10:08 pm
Posted 03 February 2016 - 10:13 pm
Prepped for the MOT, chain is almost out of adjustment range and the rear tyre is low (haven't got around to swapping it yet), but those things apart it should be a solid pass...... fingers crossed !
Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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