892 replies to this topic

[dablik]

Cheers Al dont look like i'll have a choice now, would'nt be any point rebuilding to find it's boogered and if it is could well spell the end cos i'm fooked if i'll hand over any hard earned to another breaker (bar one) no rush to get it finished even for this year, not that i really want to draw it out,  "Que sera sera"

 

If i take it to a shop no point me buying another puller they can have at it and break theirs

 

Edit....it's a woodruff key matey.

Edited by dablik, 01 June 2019 - 10:10 pm.

[Studley Ramrod]

Well, can't fault your determination matey.   Maybe time to admit defeat on this occasion and get it to a garage fer removal.  Head condition sounds good.

[dablik]

Funny you should say that

 

4th and last puller, pulled the bolt where i had to drill out and rethread a bolt previously, managed to get that helicoiled so it's back on, puller "appears" up to the job hopefully, fingers crossed but, i got swmbo stood on the side of the engine with vertigo and i'm shifiting her and the whole engine just now it's left under tension for now but if this dont get it then i have another plan.

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The other plan

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[aircooled68]

Stop assin about and get it off...

[dablik]

Stop assin about and get it off...

 

Darlin,i need a big puddin to come stand on the engine for me, wot ya doing

[aircooled68]

Should have used the impact gun 😉
By the way... Whats that center bolt pushing on?

[dablik]

Should have used the impact gun

 

fooker

[Studley Ramrod]

That puller doesn't look centred to meeeeeee.

[dablik]

That puller doesn't look centred to meeeeeee.

 

It's not in that pic matey, bolt had pulled out offit..

Should have used the impact gun
By the way... Whats that center bolt pushing on?

 

Had to put a thick washer between the crank end and the bolt, the bolt of the puller has a bur onnit so cant thread it out enough to get a proper spacer between it and the end of the crank, only way would be to order longer bolts..

Edited by dablik, 02 June 2019 - 06:07 pm.

[aircooled68]

Is the washer the same size as the end of crank??

[MickC]

Cases can be split with rotor on,just take it the local garage or tyre changing place when crank is out.If crank dosent need work leave it on.

[ramo]

Cliff

are you now converting it to run on a 18v battery, is that the plan?

[dablik]

Is the washer the same size as the end of crank??

 

Marginall smaller but the bolt is sitting onnit, doesnt seem to be moving, will recheck..dont want to force the bolt out of the puller beyond the bur onnit and fook up the thread in the puller but if i could a spacer would defo fit in.

Cases can be split with rotor on,just take it the local garage or tyre changing place when crank is out.If crank dosent need work leave it on.

 

Mick i thought the balancer shafts had to come out 1st before the crankcases are split, and access is behind the flywheel, i know you've done a couple so if that's the case it's defo an option for me, flywheel will have to come off to be replaced so if i can split the cases i'll cut it off then.

Cliff

are you now converting it to run on a 18v battery, is that the plan?

 

keeping up with you is hard enough mucka, 18000,000v would still have me playing catch up.

Edited by dablik, 02 June 2019 - 08:13 pm.

[ramo]

keep up the good work, some project this is turning  into mate,

 

you're a better man than me to take that on, fair play to ya 

[MickC]

 

Marginall smaller but the bolt is sitting onnit, doesnt seem to be moving, will recheck..dont want to force the bolt out of the puller beyond the bur onnit and fook up the thread in the puller but if i could a spacer would defo fit in.

 

Mick i thought the balancer shafts had to come out 1st before the crankcases are split, and access is behind the flywheel, i know you've done a couple so if that's the case it's defo an option for me, flywheel will have to come off to be replaced so if i can split the cases i'll cut it off then.

 

keeping up with you is hard enough mucka, 18000,000v would still have me playing catch up.

When I did my MK2 (not done the MK1) I am sure that when you split the cases one stays in the top half and one in the bottom so when re assembling you need to line them both up so when they slot into the crank sprocket they are timed up.Sent the crank with wifey to the local garage who removed it while she waited in a few minutes and payed with a pack of sausages (do are own pork) my crank needed to go to S.E.Ps for a regrind.Seems a shame to ruin a rotor if you dont have to.

And is this of any use---https://issuu.com/ja...ha_tdm_850_1996.

[dablik]

Okay thanks, can only assume the mk1 should split as well then being as they are practically identical, but will be 2nd option and worth a try if this puller fails, it's off centre a bit after re-checking which needs addressing next i'm off work (puller needs a few mm grind). Iffin i still rode a 9r i might be inclined to pay for removal with sausage an all oh the rotor's cooked already so replacement needed anyhoo.

 

Cheers for the link i have the Haynes but will browse that for any info also.

[MickC]

Got a feeling we are talking different sausages i will leave that one to you.

[dablik]

So Mick, where were you a cupla weeks ago then

 

Split them ala Mick an his mk2

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Two points to note

 

1) bolt number 25 upper case wont remove unless you have already taken out the studs as it impedes full removal but the bolt is well loose enough to leave there.

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2) The cases wont split unless you undo the lower balance shaft holder as the 2 bolts wind into the upper case internally, normal people remove the balance shafts before splitting after removing the flywheel

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Of course the order i made last Sunday night and should of arrived Friday aint shown up from another Mr Arse on ebay so cant get the die grinder on the flywheel, but wot's another week.

 

T30 bolts holding the balancer shafts and output shaft aint moving, plus the shaft ones are staked it would appear, looks like the drill will have to come out again.

 

Now is it normal to have an upper and lower bearing shell of different colours on the crankhaft bearing ie, top Brown and bottom Green, thought they would have to be the same for the clearance !!!!! marked em all up before removal so no chance of mixing up.

 

Edit...... Just having a read up of daps old thread re bearing shell sizes etc to see our Studley mentions a Red un as well, Not in Haynes at all, anyhoo that's for laters..

Edited by dablik, 09 June 2019 - 07:43 pm.

[wicklamulla]

was just about to ask you how it's all goin with that enjun.  Do ya tink one half of the shell bearing has lost it's pigment?  (then why didn't the other half lose it's pigment too?)  Yer a brave man there,  don't tink my confidence would stretch to a strip down like that.

[dablik]

was just about to ask you how it's all goin with that enjun.  Do ya tink one half of the shell bearing has lost it's pigment?  (then why didn't the other half lose it's pigment too?)  Yer a brave man there,  don't tink my confidence would stretch to a strip down like that.

 

Na wickers dont think so but could be wrong,one half appears green and the other brown/red but i'll know more once everything is inside and on me desk, can get a magnifying glass on em then.

 

I'ts frustrating as hell at times to be honest, chucked down the last 2 days, often get to part of a job to find you dont have the necessary tool or bits to hand, also have to schlep tools and everything else in and out the house, would drive the patience of a saint mucka, but i'll crack on..

 

wicki you might suprise yourself matey, if you have a man shed and space to lay stuff out it's not so difficult, if i were inside i think i would be along a lot more..

Edited by dablik, 09 June 2019 - 09:06 pm.