5999 replies to this topic

[MickC]

Fitted some of them huge commy hand guards.I drilled and tapped the bar end weights

 

 

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Then a cheapy commy Top-box 51L.

 

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And then some mirror extenders (which I believe are also commy jobs).

 

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And  one of Rafels nice took me 5mins to fit center stands.The eagle eyed among you will notice one pic has the stand on a piece of ply,thats because I have a Hagon rear shock which is slightly longer than stock (for those who didnt know) the stand will leave both tyres on the floor- just- but I changed the wheel without the ply under it.As I prepared myself for the strain of undoing the rear axel nut it moved,no effort at all It wasnt even tight so slapped wrist there.

 

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Then shoved in another rear wheel with a new Maxxis (no expense spared) tyre

 

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Off to Scotland next Saturday for a week with others Ill try to remember photos and write up.

 

One last thing put some OKO tyre sealant in both ends did this on an XR400 (the offroad version) along with some light weight Tyre retainers and it made it so much smother it was unreal (Tyre sealant is supposed to balance your wheel as well)

 

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Edited by MickC, 22 April 2016 - 08:19 pm.

[fixitsan]

Not on mine!
The ABS version has no such item. I assume this is because the ABS does the speed calculation from the wheel sensors.
You can come-see if you want.

Correct Steve ABS wheel speed sensor supercedes front sprocket sensor on ABS bikes. It should be simple to read the pulse output from it just the same. Although it may make some people nervous doing so !

I've wasted a perfectly good day off work tweaking the accelerometer version and its still not quite 100 %.....mind you i had to revisit digital filtering principles and thats not a 2 minute task !

Edited by fixitsan, 22 April 2016 - 11:47 pm.

[Timbo1866]

It's MOT day.
woo hoo passed usual advisaries on brake discs and I need a new tyre before I go on any long jaunts. Oh and suprize suprize the chain looks a little slack
But it passed 😀👍

[JBX]

2005 & 2006 TDM900A (ABS) still have the same speed sensor on the front sprocket along with the front & rear wheel speed sensors used by the ABS ECU.

Latter ABS models only have wheel speed sensors, no sprocket speed sensor.

 

 

Correct Steve ABS wheel speed sensor supercedes front sprocket sensor on ABS bikes. It should be simple to read the pulse output from it just the same. Although it may make some people nervous doing so !

I've wasted a perfectly good day off work tweaking the accelerometer version and its still not quite 100 %.....mind you i had to revisit digital filtering principles and thats not a 2 minute task !

 

Some time ago I worked on embeded GPS & accelerometers sensors.

The problem with the accelerometers is the noise & error building. Noise may be filtered (with a Kalman filter or just a low-pass filter) but the error increase remains a problem when trying to derive speed from acceleration.

The idea was to overcome the GPS speed data output - data is outputed once per second on most embeded GPS - to give a more frequent speed data using an accelerometer, and fixing increasing errors every second with the GPS data.

 

One thing to know with a GPS is that the speed data is not a computed data using the distance between coordinates divided by time, which would be very inaccurate (up to 20% error with few satellites in sight). They actually use the doppler frequency shift on received signals to compute a much more accurate speed.

Maybe using only the GPS speed data could allow to compute acceleration data without the noise & error issue with an accelerometer, but that would be only once per second. No idea if this is enough for a brake warning signal...

Just a though on your very interesting project...

[fixitsan]

2005 & 2006 TDM900A (ABS) still have the same speed sensor on the front sprocket along with the front & rear wheel speed sensors used by the ABS ECU.

Latter ABS models only have wheel speed sensors, no sprocket speed sensor.

 

 

 

Some time ago I worked on embeded GPS & accelerometers sensors.

The problem with the accelerometers is the noise & error building. Noise may be filtered (with a Kalman filter or just a low-pass filter) but the error increase remains a problem when trying to derive speed from acceleration.

The idea was to overcome the GPS speed data output - data is outputed once per second on most embeded GPS - to give a more frequent speed data using an accelerometer, and fixing increasing errors every second with the GPS data.

 

One thing to know with a GPS is that the speed data is not a computed data using the distance between coordinates divided by time, which would be very inaccurate (up to 20% error with few satellites in sight). They actually use the doppler frequency shift on received signals to compute a much more accurate speed.

Maybe using only the GPS speed data could allow to compute acceleration data without the noise & error issue with an accelerometer, but that would be only once per second. No idea if this is enough for a brake warning signal...

Just a though on your very interesting project...

 

 

I once built a gps based nixie tube speedometer and fitted it to my old xj600. The fragile neon filled tubes didn't last long....the glass envelope was fine but the fine metal cathodes shook loose !

 

I was looking at using a Kalman filter, but then a Kalman filter isn't actually filter but more of a predictor of state-space variables, such as future direction or speed.....since the first order output of the accelerometer is also deceleration (deceleration is just negative acceleration) then I already have the output from the accelerometer telling me everything I need

 

Like you said, it's VERY noisy..... so I'm using an 11-pole median filter, at 500Hz  (median filter because they reproduce edges of data changes very well)...and feeding that to a 150 point shifting buffer. Applying another median filter to the last 80 buffer elements gives me a recent and very smooth representation of the input signal which is slow to respond to rapid changes (such as acceleration or deceleration).  The accelerometer output is signed 16-bit, so that's converted to unsigned offset data around a midway point to keep the maths easy. Comparing the latest accelerometer reading to the long term average, plus a reference calibration point, tells me if this is an acceleration, deceleration due to braking, or a reduction in a previous acceleration period

 

 

At the moment I have too much sensitivity  - easier to get rid of than try to improve sensitivity !, and I need to add some hysteresis.

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like yesterday's wasted day of effort was actually a much needed refresher and learning session !

 

 

This video shows what I have at the moment. The red light is being switched by relays (ready to drop into the motorcycle wiring) and it will be clear that the device doesn't interact with the bike brake light yet.....but the mechanical brakeswitch and this device will blend together seamlessly

 

I just need to add a calibration routine and fix the two little points above and it's ready for active duty !

 

 

 

Edited by fixitsan, 23 April 2016 - 06:32 pm.

[erdferkel]

Closing the chapter.

Swapped the SuperTen mirrors back to TDM mirrors, emptied out the space under the seat (fist aid kit, hi-viz vest, leatherman tool) and put together all paperwork and the spare keys so the "dicke" is ready to be traded in when I take delivery of my new Africa Twin 1000 at the end of next week.

Feels a little nostalgic after 20 years, somewhat sad to let her go, on the other hand, looking forward to the AT a lot. Just hope the AT will be as fun and as bulletproof as the "Dicke". Still don't have a nickname for the AT yet, but I think inspiration will come, when I ride her. Now she is still in the transport crate at the dealer's

I hope, I may be allowed to stay here nontheless.

[jono49]

Fitted some of them huge commy hand guards.I drilled and tapped the bar end weights

 

IMG_0699.JPG

 

IMG_0704.JPG

 

Then a cheapy commy Top-box 51L.

 

IMG_0703.JPG

 

And then some mirror extenders (which I believe are also commy jobs).

 

IMG_0700.JPG

 

And  one of Rafels nice took me 5mins to fit center stands.The eagle eyed among you will notice one pic has the stand on a piece of ply,thats because I have a Hagon rear shock which is slightly longer than stock (for those who didnt know) the stand will leave both tyres on the floor- just- but I changed the wheel without the ply under it.As I prepared myself for the strain of undoing the rear axel nut it moved,no effort at all It wasnt even tight so slapped wrist there.

 

IMG_0702.JPG

 

IMG_0698.JPG

 

Then shoved in another rear wheel with a new Maxxis (no expense spared) tyre

 

IMG_0697.JPG

 

Off to Scotland next Saturday for a week with others Ill try to remember photos and write up.

 

One last thing put some OKO tyre sealant in both ends did this on an XR400 (the offroad version) along with some light weight Tyre retainers and it made it so much smother it was unreal (Tyre sealant is supposed to balance your wheel as well)

 

IMG_0709.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tyre sealant also rot's your rims away as well!

[arthurbikemad]

Gave it a clean and a coat of wax

 

@juno49 your correct, number of tyres I have removed with any form of sealant eats alloy wheels to death!

Edited by arthurbikemad, 24 April 2016 - 03:31 pm.

[jono49]

Cheers for some professional back up Arthur Mine was a victim too leaking at the valve hole!

[arthurbikemad]

Cheers for some professional back up Arthur Mine was a victim too leaking at the valve hole!

 

 

I can do better than that, here is a XJR1300 (2012) rear wheel, did this a few months back, tweeted these pics.

Wheel needs restoration tbh but they guy needed the tyres fitted asap so out it went.

[TYREDNGRUMPEE]

Removed ART silencers (/sarc) and dug out the whisper quiet Nexxus cans for the MOT due on 11th May.

Removed nonfango luggage system as the pannier frames ever so slightly obscure the rear indicators.

Sat back and then decided to wipe away last years chain lube and engine oil mist,

Filled a bucket with water.

Rinse and repeat (annually)

Edited by TYREDNGRUMPEE, 24 April 2016 - 07:13 pm.

[MickC]

Jono49 -Artherbikemad

This is from the OKO website.

Will OKO corrode the wheels, rust wheel rims or steel belts?

No. There are special corrosion inhibitors in the OKO formulation that inhibit corrosion in steel & alloy rims. They will prevent the product from causing oxidation in brass valve stems. If any residue of OKO is touching the inner rim, it can be washed off when a tyre is changed. It is advisable NOT to use any tyre sealant with chrome-plated wheels as they are susceptible to chemical effects. (Check with your supplier: polished alloys may look like chrome, and they are OKO-compatible).
OKO uses inhibitors unique in the tyre sealant industry. These inhibitors are entirely friendly to the environment.

 

 

How do you know that OKO caused the problem.

[arthurbikemad]

I'd not be able to say what brand of anti puncture fluids are to blame so only time will tell in your case, for me, I'd not use any such fluid in my wheels, however if you use your bike in areas where recovery or no other temp puncture repair is an option then I guess this is a good option to help to keep you rolling.

[Bjørge]

Finally had the nerve & peace of mind to refurbish carbs - everything went good and now it seems to be back to old days' hesitation in 2,300-3,000 rpms (poorer performance = success !).

Have to ride it a bit more to confirm reduced thirst, but yesterday's snow & cold air stopped driving.

[fixitsan]

Fitted the mk1's rear brake pads and pins and thought I'ld take it for a ride, I just started to pull away when it died.....fuel pipes wrong way round at the tank - I had read that the reserve outlet was fitted to the rear of the tank, on mine that pipe is the main supply. No big deal.....except the fuel pump stopped working thanks to some crud which was stopping it from sealing and pull fuel through.....stripped the fuel pump,cleaned and rebuilt it, then had to leave that for now.

 

Among all of that i discovered that a split pin was missing from the rear brake pedal linkage, that could've been nasty !

 

The mk1 screen was broken along a roughly horizontal line by previous owner....so I've cut the top 1/3 squarely off, tidied it up and refitted it an inch lower down the screen, making it look like  flip off add-on. It'll do for now

 

The 9er had developed a slight knock at the steering head, the bearings are a tad too loose. I packed it with grease 2k miles ago and I guess I failed to torque it up enough afterwards.

 

Also ported the software for the automatic brakelight controller, 1.1kilobytes of it, to a smaller 8-pin microcontroller and finished making the adjustments needed to get it stable and reliable. Just needs a calibration routine to be dropped in now and then I might be asking for a volunteer or two to test it out, and give some feedback and suggest any changes ...

Edited by fixitsan, 25 April 2016 - 09:05 pm.

[Silverfox]

Fitted a set of small leavers, hand gaurd,new number plate and a set emolson tubs
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Check the number plate

[harvey krumpet]

Oh! I do like your leavers. Where did ya get em?

[GeneralBozo]

I've fitted a centre stand (thanks for arranging the purchase ali, much appreciated!)

Ease of chain maintenence; the ultimate in street cred.

The ladies love it. "Babe, it's 14 inches, sprung loaded and stays up for hours"

[Bjørge]

The ladies love it. "Babe, it's 14 inches, sprung loaded and stays up for hours"

 

You take it down for service only 

[AliG]

I've fitted a centre stand (thanks for arranging the purchase ali, much appreciated!)

Ease of chain maintenence; the ultimate in street cred.

The ladies love it. "Babe, it's 14 inches, sprung loaded and stays up for hours"

It was worth it just for the above comment!

Ali