187 replies to this topic

[dablik]

Will be watching this one, very interesting, so smoother than previously, i like the sound of that.

[fixitsan]

Will be watching this one, very interesting, so smoother than previously, i like the sound of that.

 

Yes on second gear. I wouldn't normally bother exploring anything below 2200rpm previously....in third gear dropping down to 1800rpm is fine in traffic (lightly loaded)

[dablik]

 

Yes on second gear. I wouldn't normally bother exploring anything below 2200rpm previously....in third gear dropping down to 1800rpm is fine in traffic (lightly loaded)

 

That's good to know Chris, thanks.

[JBX]

Bear in mind that low rpm on this engine will put more stress on the camshaft chain.

[fixitsan]

Bear in mind that low rpm on this engine will put more stress on the camshaft chain.

Why would that be the case for this engine more than another ?

Edited by fixitsan, 25 March 2016 - 10:31 pm.

[fixitsan]

I got  the chance to video how the engine runs at lower speeds.

 

A bit of a boring video, slow starts,  mostly up a gentle incline to put the engine under load, and a couple of fast accelerations. 4th gear below 2000rpm is not in happy bunny territory, but that's to be expected

 

Best part of having a few hundred useable rpm lower in the range is that it makes short-shifting easy, as you'll see on a couple of wet roundabouts.

 

[Studley Ramrod]

Almost as smooth as a mk1.

[leehenty]

how did you elongate the holes ? slot drill on a milling machine ?

[fixitsan]

Lee, as I put the cover back on I thought '...hmmmm, I should have probably taken some photo's   '  !

 

I used a Dremel milling bit  (2mm or 3mm) in a cordless drill. As you'll see in the photo below (a sample photo, not my sensor) on the reverse of the backplate are two pressed flanges to get the sensor to locate over the mounting holes correctly. These need to be ground off.

 

I held the sensor mount plate in a  pair of mole grips, I wrapped the sensor in insulating tape and put rags everywhere else to catch the filings, but recommend taking it out completely. The wires to the pickup pass through a grommet with the alternator wires so you should either remove the the stator too, in order to get it on the bench.....but the two sensor wires are soldered onto the outside of the pickup and don't have any insulation over them at all, just two bare blobs of solder, so desoldering those two wires might be a good way to go. (If you desolder the wires remember that they are polarised, so put the same wire back on the same contact afterwards.

 

Important to stress, that the gap between the pickup and the rotor must not get too small, so if you slot the holes try not to drift diagonally, or you could put the sensor into contact with the rotor. That's probably not catastrophic because the engine should stop straight away, but you would need to replace the sensor and clean the bits out !

 

Almost as smooth as a mk1.

 

I've yet to run my mk1 on the road....should be there soon...can't wait !

Edited by fixitsan, 26 March 2016 - 09:12 pm.

[fixitsan]

I used one of these, circled....

 

 

 

To grind off the two flanges I used (very carefully) my angle grinder with diamond tile cutting disc.....not the right tool, but it was getting late.....

[dablik]

Almost as smooth as a mk1.

 

[adamg]

Newbie question alert, what is the role of the camshaft sensor on the 900? If the ignition can be advanced by slotting the crankshaft sensor, them the camshaft sensor isn't involved in spark timing?

[Rallyist]

its used for cylinder identification

[adamg]

That's a lot of electronics for a simple job. I could have saved Mr yamaha a lot of money. Number 1 is on the left. Bad joke, sorry!

[fixitsan]

It was a fair question Adam !

[adamg]

Anything else affected by the crankshaft sensor timing? Ie if I advance the sensor by 4 degrees will it only mean an earlier spark or are there potential side effects?

[fixitsan]

It will start injecting earlier too probably. But the ECU fires the injectors against closed inlet valves anyway.

I haven't noticed a problem. It felt more responsive and brisk immediately afterwards.

Since advancing the timing I've run a few tanks of regular unleaded and haven't noticed any knockink/pinking

Edited by fixitsan, 21 May 2016 - 08:49 pm.

[Oldgit59]

Hi, is this thread still running? I just bought a 2010 9er, no abs and am doing the various tweeks to eliminate the low speed hiccups. This appears to be the most effective single mod and I wonder if there is any feedback since 2016 on the long term effect and any negative outcomes?

Hope the thread has not gone dead, I've been reading you all extensively since buying the bike in October.

Cheers, Tony

[fixitsan]

I never had any problems,  a bit more responsiveness, no overheating and no sign of pinking. I had to set the timing back to standard when i fitted the ECU which had been remapped. 

 

I've also done this mod on my KTM 620, some versions of this bike have a cable selectable timing setting for fuels of 95 ron and above, and another position for 92 ron fuels and below,, except mine didn't so it was set to use the lowest quality fuel

[Oldgit59]

Thanks fixitsan. I'm looking to improve smooth running and not a speed / acceleration increase. So I will investigate further. I have Mivv carbon slipons that came with the bike and have disabled the air intake flap following JBX instructions. However I understand that this is less effective on bikes from 2010 so I may refit wire 8 and see what happens. The biggest positive effect for slow running has come from balancing the throttle bodies with a Twinmax and increasing CO levels to 60 and 65 from 14 and 19. I need to check the plugs for colour - they were completely clean at the lower settings and the top 4" of each downpipe was blue. The bluing has mostly gone now and the bike is much more rideable.