294 replies to this topic

[dablik]

Nowt to do with the cleanliness, it seems vibrations of the bike tend to work them a little loose and the plugs melt when the wires short, happened lots, mine will be having new wiring and no connector.

Edited by dablik, 15 March 2018 - 06:34 pm.

[Talltom87]

Well, I am planning on getting another bike in the next few months. And I really want to fabricate a new rear end for the tdm! So, will do something along those lines when I get her back in the garage! Haha thanks, Ill start saving for another go at it!

[Talltom87]

Updating the rear fairing now I have decent fibreglass. Waiting for it to set, next to a heater as its freezing!!
Now, Im cleaning the brake calipers and renewing pads and pipes. Freezing my little uns off.

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[Talltom87]

Bleeding new brake pipes is a right p in the a

[Swarf]

I always find air trapped in the top banjo bolt, I wrap a rag around the line then crack the bolt just a touch (with the lever in) until I see fluid and there's always little frothy bubbles in it. Lock back up, release the lever, squeeze and repeat til there's no bubbles.
It's a bit messy but always works for me.

[dablik]

Agree, i fitted a double banjo with a bleed nipple to my MC when i swapped for 2 lines, had good results with reverse bleeding though using a syringe.

[Talltom87]

I got a syringe and pumped fluid up to the reservoir and then bled it back out. Well, I did that after numerous attempts of pumping the fluid to the calipers! Haha

[dablik]

It requires a bit of patience eh Tom but can get good results.

[Talltom87]

Just got to do the rear caliper and pipe tonight. I might even try that patients thing youre on about.

[Talltom87]

Theres two bleed nipples on the rear caliper... do you need to bleed from both? Cause the outer one has snapped and it has also got a snapped removal tool inside it now. It isnt leaking.... the other however, is free.

[Studley Ramrod]

Personally, I wouldn't use a caliper with a broken bleed nipple, brakes are the one thing I wouldn't take a chance with.

[Talltom87]

Ive decided to drill it out and put a new one in.

[fixitsan]

Theres two bleed nipples on the rear caliper... do you need to bleed from both? Cause the outer one has snapped and it has also got a snapped removal tool inside it now. It isnt leaking.... the other however, is free.

 

Yes you need to bleed both. In your situation you will need to remove the caliper from it's mount but leave it piped in. Then keep the broken piston side low and pump fluid into it. Then push the piston back into the cylinder to push the air into the side of the caliper with the working nipple.

 

It's a faff, and there is little risk of the old nipple causing a problem, but an alternative caliper is the best bet. The mk1 uses the same rear caliper as the FZR600 Genesis (3HE model) from the mid eighties, and fitted to a lot of other bikes of the period, like the XJ900.

 

I would be tempted to buy a cheap replacement, fit new seals and nipples, and list the old one on ebay listed honestly as ' needs a new nipple, old one seized' and you'll get something back for it.....there are a lot of inventive people who would mess about with that to save a couple of quid !

Ive decided to drill it out and put a new one in.

 

 

Need to be a good drill, those removal tools are as hard as a hard thing

[Talltom87]

Decided to rebuild the caliper. Im waiting on the seals to come.
Also, Ive ordered new handle bar, levers, indicators and steering bearings. I could get her motd once all in! But, I need to finish the fairing; wrap and paint it, align the headlights, fit all the new parts coming, check the torque settings (if anyone can advise on the actual torque settings compared to the manual?) and either make a new bracket for the clocks or get new modern clocks? Undecided on that at the moment!

Oh, also, need to get a fly screen or cut the old one up to fit how I want it to.

I will post pictures again soon!

[dablik]

Dunno what you mean Tom, torque settings are stated in the manual !!

[Talltom87]

Ive seen somewhere on here, someone thinks the rear wheel setting in the manual is too tight.?

[dapleb]

Lower shock mount way too high for marshmallow bolt.

Oil filter housing bolt too high.

If you are doing enjun stuff the Heinz and worksop Manuel sometimes vary on torque settings.

[dablik]

Ive seen somewhere on here, someone thinks the rear wheel setting in the manual is too tight.?

 

Okay well that's one i do by feely feel but pretty sure it was the 9r axle torque which was stupid high.

[Studley Ramrod]

Lower shock mount way too high for marshmallow bolt.

Oil filter housing bolt too high.

If you are doing enjun stuff the Heinz and worksop Manuel sometimes vary on torque settings.

 

I agrozzle.  Rest of the torque settings for mk1 are about right iirc.

[Talltom87]

I will have a look through the forum and manual, compare and will provide my findings and we can discuss. Haha I sound like an engineer, but Im just a boy.