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Engine Won't Run When Gear Engaged : (


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#1 wigwamclan

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 07:44 am

I've checked the side stand switch and it's ok.......any ideas?

 


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#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 09:12 am

The clutch switch perhaps ?


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#3 gozer

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 02:33 pm

Or dodgy neutral switch? It could be any of the three!



#4 TKH

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 06:35 pm

Is the switch area dirty?

That's a sign that it thinks the side stand is still down and is cutting power to the engine to stop you riding off with it down.

Are there any error codes related to this? I'm sure someone will come along soon and be able to quote them....



#5 JBX

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 06:47 pm

Are you sure your bike is a 2004 model or is it a 2003 one registered in 2004 ?


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#6 wigwamclan

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 07:17 pm

Are you sure your bike is a 2004 model or is it a 2003 one registered in 2004 ?

 

it's 2003 registered 04


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#7 JBX

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 08:50 pm

Ok, in this case you may have a problem with

- the main switch / connector

- the alarm connector

 

The main switch on the 2002-2003 models is prone to false contacts in case your key-holder is too heavy.


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#8 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 06:49 am

Ok, in this case you may have a problem with

- the main switch / connector

- the alarm connector

 

The main switch on the 2002-2003 models is prone to false contacts in case your key-holder is too heavy.

 

 

Hi JBX,  do you mean the ignition switch where the key fits?


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#9 JBX

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 07:24 am

Yes Wicky, main switch = ignition switch = key switch

 

"Main switch" is the term used inside the owner's manual & workshop manual.

 

It's better to use the words "Main switch" to avoid confusion with "start switch" or "engine stop switch".


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#10 wigwamclan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 08:35 am

Cheers knowledgeable ones.....is there a course of action that's best to remedy said headache or is it just a case of pulling it apart and sniffing around?

 

I should mention that this bike has never had a working neutral light since I bought it 3 years back. I did once spend a couple of quid an' half an hour tryna find the cause but gave up as the sun came out :rolleyes: ....my bad. 

 

BTW, I checked the side stand, neurtral and clutch switches and they all seemed fine :good:


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#11 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 09:02 am

As TKH mentioned, did you check for error codes ?


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#12 gozer

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 09:23 am

You could try pulling the connectors off the switches one at a time and bridging them with a small piece of wire. By bypassing the switch altogether it`ll tell you if the switch is at fault.



#13 wigwamclan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 03:37 pm

As TKH mentioned, did you check for error codes ?

No codes other than tilt switch (guy knocked it over in a carpark a couple of weeks back, atmospheric pressure sensor due to the airbox mod'.

 

The speed sensor/neutral switch was also there but I'm thinking that's due to me having shorted it to get it to run..


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#14 wigwamclan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 03:50 pm

You could try pulling the connectors off the switches one at a time and bridging them with a small piece of wire. By bypassing the switch altogether it`ll tell you if the switch is at fault.

Did this and found the only thing that had an affect was the neutral switch wire. This seemed to bypass everything and allowed the bike to run in gear but this also caused the side stand switch not to work either : (


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#15 wigwamclan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 04:02 pm

OK, so after reading JBX's post I remembered WD-40ing the ignition barrel then giving it some 3in1 a couple of weeks back, so I just squirt a load more WD down the key slot and blew it out with the air line, followed by 3in1 and the airline and finally engine oil and the airline.

 

This shifted, to a lesser degree each time, grey, dirty, oily kak from the innards of the ignition and hey presto it worked!! 

 

Now, I'm guessing this isn't a permanent fix so question is what needs to be done to prevent this happening in the future?


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#16 fixitsan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 06:40 pm

OK, so after reading JBX's post I remembered WD-40ing the ignition barrel then giving it some 3in1 a couple of weeks back, so I just squirt a load more WD down the key slot and blew it out with the air line, followed by 3in1 and the airline and finally engine oil and the airline.

 

This shifted, to a lesser degree each time, grey, dirty, oily kak from the innards of the ignition and hey presto it worked!! 

 

Now, I'm guessing this isn't a permanent fix so question is what needs to be done to prevent this happening in the future?

 

 

I would have thought engine oil would be a problem, because it traps dust and metal particales. The best thing I've found now is locksmith's graphite powder.  I would give the lock a flush out with naptha (lighter fluid in the UK) and then a squirt with a contact lubricant, finally a dusting a day or two later with graphite powder in the lock mechanism


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#17 JBX

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 07:41 pm

Agree with you FS, best practice with the main switch as this is a lock stacked on an electrical switch.

 

WD40 will do ok on a short term, then you'll get the same issue again as oil attract dust and all the crap around.

Worse, oil is a very good electrical insulator, not to mess with any electrical contact.

 

So use contact cleaner first for the switch part, then graphite powder for the lock part only.


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#18 wigwamclan

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 10:01 pm

 

 

I would have thought engine oil would be a problem, because it traps dust and metal particales. The best thing I've found now is locksmith's graphite powder.  I would give the lock a flush out with naptha (lighter fluid in the UK) and then a squirt with a contact lubricant, finally a dusting a day or two later with graphite powder in the lock mechanism

 

 

Agree with you FS, best practice with the main switch as this is a lock stacked on an electrical switch.

 

WD40 will do ok on a short term, then you'll get the same issue again as oil attract dust and all the crap around.

Worse, oil is a very good electrical insulator, not to mess with any electrical contact.

 

So use contact cleaner first for the switch part, then graphite powder for the lock part only.

 

OK guys, thanks for the help. It sounds like good logic and I'll be on it tomorrow.......much appreciated :signthankspin:


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