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Splitting Brake Calipers


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#1 dhatfiel

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 03:12 pm

I am refreshing rear brake caliper on my '92 850. The Haynes manual warns to not split calipers from this bike. What's the worst that could happen? There are O rings that presumably need replacing.



#2 dapleb

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 03:44 pm

Its fine to split em.  Bestest way to get it all noice and clean.


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#3 dhatfiel

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 04:00 pm

Okay, Dappers, if you say so. I liked your airbox rubber repair, so I will defer to youse on dis. Tanks!

 

Why do you think Haynes says to leave it alone?


Edited by dhatfiel, 09 May 2017 - 04:01 pm.


#4 dapleb

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 04:29 pm

Prolly cous of the o rings loike ya say dhat, a non standard size no doubt! Just make sure ya can source newies first.

I found powerhouse over ear very helpful and had all the bits.

Ear is a thread of my front calipots http://www.carpe-tdm...ic=26430&page=1
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#5 dhatfiel

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 05:00 pm

The repair kit I got has two O rings that cannot go anywhere else except to seal the fluid passage between the two halves. They would be useless unless one was splitting the block. So the kit people assume yer goona do that as part of a proper refresh.



#6 Apache

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 05:09 pm

+ 1 for the powerhouse kit. Excellent quality and new bleed nipples included....

#7 divvxj

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 05:14 pm

+ 1 for the powerhouse kit. Excellent quality and new bleed nipples included....

 

teehee phinarr phinarr, he said nipples :rotflmmfao: 



#8 Apache

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 05:56 pm

teehee phinarr phinarr, he said nipples :rotflmmfao:


She

#9 wicklamulla

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 12:44 pm

She

 

naughty step both of you!

 

ya strip them thar clappers in 2 and cleanum up real good loike.


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#10 dhatfiel

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 04:39 pm

When I put them back together do I need to use any sort of gasket compound? A thin smear of the (non-petroleum based) grease that comes in the kit for lubing the new rings, maybe? Or just dry?



#11 fixitsan

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 06:27 pm

When I put them back together do I need to use any sort of gasket compound? A thin smear of the (non-petroleum based) grease that comes in the kit for lubing the new rings, maybe? Or just dry?

 

Brake fluid usually works fine.


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#12 James

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 07:25 pm

When I put them back together do I need to use any sort of gasket compound? A thin smear of the (non-petroleum based) grease that comes in the kit for lubing the new rings, maybe? Or just dry?


There's no harm in wetting the new 'o' rings with brake fluid but I never bothered with my FJ1200, which has the same calipers, with no ill effects. But build the caliper halves dry. There's no need for gasket cement or grease.

Edited by Jim, 10 May 2017 - 07:29 pm.

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#13 dhatfiel

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 08:28 pm

Okay. And many thanks.



#14 dhatfiel

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 01:31 am

I split the block, and one piston comes out easy. The other, not so much. Very stuck. It will spin, barely, with Bikemaster piston tool. Heated in oven for a while. Not enough grip with this tool. Will rotate, but knurls on tool smoothing off. Of course I tried compressed air too. Nothing. Replace caliper, I reckon.



#15 dhatfiel

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 01:53 am

All right, found a replacement for 40 Bones at a wrecker in NY.



#16 Swarf

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 04:31 am

More compressed air. An industrial compressor will shift it, I used the one at the engineering company I work at. Pop the other piston back in and hold it with some wood and a g clamp and blast the caliper. Mine wouldn't move at all with a tool, came out with a hell of a bang....😂

#17 dapleb

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 04:32 am

They will free eventually but its a battle.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#18 dhatfiel

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 03:08 pm

I surrendered. 100psi was unable to budge. That is is high as my compressor goes. The special interior-gripping tool was not stout enough. I could rotate it, with great difficulty, but could not put enough extraction force on it.So I ordered a used replacement, hoping that the same condition does not exist on it........



#19 dapleb

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 03:21 pm

Yeah compressed air made no diff to mine....the Heinz method wasn't even realistic...as if they too gave up and just put a standard comment there to make it seen plausible. :-)
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#20 fixitsan

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 06:24 pm

If you can get a grip on the piston skirt with mole grips you ought to be able to find it easier to turn the piston and pull a little bit at the same time. I have had to resort to this a couple of times, Not too much risk of distorting the piston unless you use massive sized grips


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