Auxillary Fuse/bus Box
#1
Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:28 pm
The trouble is there's quite a lot of it, and once I check the wiring on it I plan to fit a pulse width modulator on DIN2 for my heated jacket, which I believe varies the earth rather than live for added complication.
I'm tempted by the idea of an Eastern Beaver PC8 but with postage it does seem quite an expensive option, and I don't really need everything separately fused. What I really need I think is some form of bus bar to give me the positive and negative rails I can hang everything else off, as a fair few of those wires are just to connect the rails together rather than connect the rails to my ancillaries.
So has anyone got any bright ideas this time around?
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#2
Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:36 pm
Li....ahh you said bright ideas.
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#3
Posted 29 April 2012 - 02:27 pm
http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1
Gives you the option of permanently on or switched lives!
#4
Posted 29 April 2012 - 02:47 pm
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#5
Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:04 pm
Anyhows, this it what we saw in France (Near Italy)
#6
Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:27 pm
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#7
Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:35 pm
Just a minute, you spent god knows how much on a petrol stove that you use perhaps twice a year, yet you balk at spending sixty brick on something that will serve you well every day.
BD
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#8
Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:45 pm
#9
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:10 pm
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#10
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:36 pm
#11
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:46 pm
It just so happens I'm looking into making a PCB for power distribution, to include the relay and fuses etc.
So tell me exactly what you want and I'll knock it up for you FOC, then if it's any good I'll make one for myself lol
I was thinking of a PCB with ground, live and ignition live feeds, from this supply some fused outlets at constant live and switched live. Plus I was going to add, a 5v DC DC converter with a USB socket for phone charging etc. Plus a 9v DC DC convertor because my radio uses a 9v charger?? I was thinking of a bare PCB, lacquered for protection from the elements. The problem with putting it in a box is access to the fuses, plus cooling for the voltage converters.
#12
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:58 pm
What? Who did? I've not even seen your LED wiring.
Mark, I'm not convinced everything needs to be fused. I reckon a fuse on the common supply to whole lot should be ok, though a separate fuse on the heated jacket supply makes sense.
A simple solution would be common +ve and -ve rails with about 8 connections on each, either with an external relay meaning the +ve is all on a switched live, or a built in relay with an extra connection for the switched live feed. A more complex solution would have a second +ve rail than can powered by the second relay for the lights, though with only 3 connections needed that could be done separately fairly easily.
Now I think about it it's sounding suspiciously like I want an Eastern Beaver or a Fuzeblock but just without the individual fuses
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#14
Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:25 pm
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#15
Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:01 pm
It may have been TD but I'm sure you were there too? If not ....
As for the mains earth block suggested by Matt, how much current do you think you can drag out of that poor little battery! Have to admit though, you will be able to join lots of wires ...
#16
Posted 29 April 2012 - 09:03 pm
#17
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:08 pm
http://www.vehicle-w...es/holders1.php
#18
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:24 pm
http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1
Gives you the option of permanently on or switched lives!
Now I like that idea very neat.
must get me one when swmbo lets me out the shed..
#19
Posted 29 April 2012 - 11:20 pm
If you used something like this and soldered a link across the appropriate terminals you could fuse the lot, and then fuse separate outputs at a lower rating to provide a little discrimination.
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#20
Posted 30 April 2012 - 03:56 pm
Exactly what I did do. I soldered a copper cable across the rear terminals, and fused the link connecting to battery.
Piece of tubing split down the side, filled with silicon and fitted over terminals. Physical and water protection.
Whole hollow bottom part of box is overfilled with silicon to keep out water. Sticks it in place.
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